Yongnuo Yn-460ii with GF3?

Discussion in 'Lighting Forum' started by gsk3, Mar 27, 2013.

  1. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Rather than spending $30 on a slave that ignores pre-flashes (to let me use my old cheap plastic generic Vivitar 280 knock-off flash), I figured I'd buy a YN-460II or YN-560II, which have a built-in slave and are better flashes.

    Before I buy, has anyone used either of these with the GF3 or similar? I know that pre-flash timing can vary and just want to make sure that the flash will appropriately ignore the pre-flashes and trigger properly.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Talanis

    Talanis Mu-43 Top Veteran

    509
    Oct 15, 2012
    Sherbrooke, Canada
    Eric Cote
    There are 2 optical slaves mode on the 460II and one of them is to ignore the Canon's pre-flash so my guess is it would work but I can,t confirm. Your best bet though is to buy a cheap radio remote. They are far more reliable than the line of sight from your built-in flash and you can have a pair for under 20$. I'm using those and they never failed me: 4 Channel Wireless Flash Gun Trigger Transmitter +Receiver x2|Wireless Flash Triggers
     
  3. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Can't use one--no hot shoe or PC sync.
     
  4. quatchi

    quatchi Mu-43 Veteran

    326
    May 17, 2012
    Munich, Germany
    I am using the YN460-II and YN560-II with G1 and O-MD. I, however, also use radio triggers.
    As for the pre flash: Can you disable the preflash functionality on the GF3?

    In case no one can answer your question until then, I can check out the slave modes on the weekend for you.
     
  5. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Thanks. I've asked previously if you can disable pre-flashes in the GF3, and the answer seems to be "no." There's no flash exposure control either, so it's not entirely surprising given how generally bad flash control is on the otherwise awesome GF3. Not sure if there's a hacked firmware that would fix it, but last I checked the GF3 hack was months off anyhow.

    If you have time this weekend and there's no answer by then, checking on it would be very helpful.

    Thanks!
     
  6. quatchi

    quatchi Mu-43 Veteran

    326
    May 17, 2012
    Munich, Germany
    Mhmm, this turned out interesting...

    First of all, I have to say that I do not know how to enable pre-flashes (to manage TTL slaves) on either the Pana G1 nor the Oly O-MD. What I have done is to try the red-eye pre-flash feature on both cams. I took out the YN460-ii and YN560-ii. Here are the (astonishing) results:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=15732&d=1364555070.

    The modes on both flashes are the same. M stands for manual triggering (through the hot shoe), S1 for optical slave and S2 for optical slave with pre-flash suppression. Only the YN460-ii in combination with the O-MD worked as expected. The YN560-ii fired multiple times with the red-eye pre-flash of the O-MD. Both flashes ignored the regular flash of the G1
     

    Attached Files:

  7. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Thanks for the detailed experiment! From what I can read on red-eye reduction, some cameras fire multiple pre-flashes, whereas others only fire a single one. The timing is probably a bit longer than the exposure pre-flash, also, as it takes less time for a mirror to flip up (nor for mFT obviously, but in SLRs, the mirror has to be down so the exposure can be read off the flash result) than for a pupil to constrict. So maybe that's what's going on?

    It looks like on the OM-D the SuperControlPanel has a Flash Mode setting. If you turn off red-eye reduction, and set the mode to Manual Flash Exposure and test it under S2, then set it to TTL and test it under S2, I think that should do it. TTL will use a pre-flash to determine exposure, whereas manual flash exposure won't....

    Edit: Found instructions on setting to manual flash.
    From here: http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/olympus-omd-pen-best-underwater-settings
     
  8. quatchi

    quatchi Mu-43 Veteran

    326
    May 17, 2012
    Munich, Germany
    This time I selected the "fill in" flash bolt. In all cases (S1 & S2 on both flashes) worked. By worked I mean that the light of the flash can be seen on the final image. I am therefore not sure whether the fill in flash bold emits the TTL pre-flash.
     
  9. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Interesting. I'll probably order a flash and report back when I know how it turns out :)

    Thanks for checking this stuff for me. Very helpful.
     
  10. inkista

    inkista Mu-43 Veteran

    332
    Jan 13, 2012
    San Diego, CA
    I just put my YN-560 in S2 mode, and was able to pop it from the pop-up flash on my G3. I had flash set to just the regular "forced" (i.e., the lightning bolt without the A (Auto) or the S (slow-sync); no red-eye). Hopefully your GF3's built-in flash will work the same.

    As I understand it, red-eye does add an additional pre-flash, and the S2 mode on the Yongnuo speedlights can only ignore a single preflash.
     
  11. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Sounds like it should work.

    Thanks for all the help everyone. I'll post photos when I get my strobist setup working :). Should have everything I need except a light stand.
     
  12. inkista

    inkista Mu-43 Veteran

    332
    Jan 13, 2012
    San Diego, CA
    Don't forget the umbrella swivel! :) With the right stud, you can put the umbrella swivel on a tripod (or anything you can attach a 1/4x20 bolt onto) until you get a light stand, but without the swivel, you've got no way to connect the flash to the stand.
     
  13. gsk3

    gsk3 Mu-43 Regular

    124
    Jan 29, 2012
    Have one! My photo junk bin is extensive (and dusty after ten years...).
     
  14. inkista

    inkista Mu-43 Veteran

    332
    Jan 13, 2012
    San Diego, CA
    Sweet! I love popping the stud & swivel onto a monopod, and doing strobe-on-a-stick with it. :)