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Yongnuo 560 overheating external battery packs

Discussion in 'Lighting Forum' started by robbie36, Oct 15, 2014.

  1. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Bangkok
    rob collins
    The one problem I have found with the Yongnuo 560iii is overheating. I dont think this is a problem with build/design of the flash just a consequence of the way I use it. I often mix this flash with studio flash and have the 560iii turned up to full power. According to the specs after 20 shots, the flash powers down to a 15 second recycling time. I assume buying an external power pack will solve this issue. Will it.

    I dont want to buy an external 8 AA battery bay - I would just end up managing huge numbers of AA batteries.

    So I am looking at external lithium packs which I think should work as the 560iii has a Canon battery pack socket. Does anyone use these? Do they work well? And what battery do they recommend? Isee that Godox have the 960 battery pack and there is another called a PB3000.
     
  2. eteless

    eteless Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 20, 2014
    It isn't the battery that overheats, it's the flash tube. Using an external pack just makes it happen sooner as it recharges faster and can fire faster.

    I'm not sure if it's a design flaw as such - it was designed this way to save money. The head has too much power being pumped through it for the tube it uses, larger power flashes generally use different tubes made out of quartz to handle the higher power levels without melting. Even so many high power flashes still have the same problem (Some of the earlier Nikon SB-900's come to mind, the later models are generally much better).
     
  3. RobWatson

    RobWatson Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I constructed an external power source for flashes mostly because I hate slow cycle times and replacing batteries. Problem solved.

    Flash head still gets hot in about the same number of flashes (18-22 depending on rapidity).

    I was sorely tempted to hack in a fan ... might still do it eventually.
     
  4. Just Jim

    Just Jim Mu-43 Top Veteran

    941
    Oct 20, 2011
    Out of idle curiosity. Would the cooling cement goo and an old copper plate from a GPU, or CPU work to cool a flash head if it was hacked in somehow?
     
  5. eteless

    eteless Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 20, 2014
    Not worth it, one of the failure modes of flashes is if any oil at all gets on them (say someone touched it, the oil on their skin). Due to the high temperatures they operate at the oil is turned into carbon via pyrolysis and the carbon (carbon black essentially, aka lamp black etc) absorbs light. The absorption of light concentrated in one small area creates a hot spot and melts the glass. The normal failure is through differential expansion over lots and lots of heat cycles causing the glass to fatigue. While a heatsink would allow some of the heat to be dumped out of the tube, it would also mean that part of the tube heats at a different rate causing fatigue on the barrier between the two.

    I'm unsure about the exact internal design of the Yongnuo flashes however they appear based on a canon design so the the flash tube is most likely contained inside the flash head (it has the reflector as the backing, tube going through it with silicone seals, and a glass front) and no air exchange can happen between the air surrounding the tube and air inside the zoom head. I'm unsure if pumping air through them would do all that much for the temperature of the actual flash tube given this.


    Prolonging it's life is easy, don't fire it so many times in a row. If you need to fire it more times than it will allow I would suggest that rather than throwing good money after bad trying to improve its design somehow by adding cooling that you invest in a different product which has had the development already done and doesn't have these issues. A product with a focus in it's design on how you are using the flash currently (higher power studio work) would probably work better.
     
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  6. m4/3boy

    m4/3boy Mu-43 Veteran

    306
    Jul 21, 2013
    Yeah, that's the ticket. Saw the flash apart and strap on a large PC cooler!

    Etelees has the proper response. The Y-560 isn't made for rapid sequences of flashes at full output, nor are flashes made by anyone such as Nikon and Canon for example.
     
  7. gryphon1911

    gryphon1911 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 13, 2014
    Central Ohio, USA
    Andrew
    Or, get backups of the overheating units and after a while, switch them out with cool units - repeat process until the shoot is over.
     
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  8. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Or, use 2 units at reduced power.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  9. RobWatson

    RobWatson Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    The primary reason I stopped short of doing much here is due to the highly integrated aspect of the assembly. Moving air, even a little, helps tremendously but moving air over what, exactly, is the problem. If the primary thermal 'bottleneck' is conduction from the flash tube to the reflector (which I believe to be the case) then moving air over the reflector does not have a great effect on speeding the cooling.

    While idle curiosity may well be a prime killer of cats I am susceptible to the allure of DIY.

    My original intent was to answer the OP query with a "no" and don't mean to derail.
     
  10. inkista

    inkista Mu-43 Veteran

    332
    Jan 13, 2012
    San Diego, CA
    This is just me, but if you're using the YN-560 at full power all the time, that says to me you need something more powerful than a speedlight. I think instead of getting multiple units (and backups) of YN-560s, you consider getting another studio strobe (AlienBee?) or, if a studio strobe's too big and overkill, then maybe a Godox Wistro.
     
  11. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Bangkok
    rob collins
    You are almost certainly right. I tend to use the Yongnuos as rim or hairlights and you usually need these to overpower your studio lights which is heroically optimistic I guess. I also hate fiddling with equipment unnecessarily when shooting (dont we all?). I shot yesterday with 2 x Godox ad360s as rim lights and took 290 shots without missing a beat. Of course they are not that cheap (although on US$300 with battery pack in my country) but they are pretty good value. So I think I will change my mind about buying a Nissin i40 9for on camera TTL/HSS and splash out on a couple of ad360s instead - especially as they produce nice even light compared to the Yongnuos. One from yesterday with the ad360s.

    Viktor1_1_of_1_.jpg
     
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