Wireless flash system for E-M10


Mu-43 Regular

This is quite confusing for me. I'm used to Nikon CLS system with my old D7000 and SB-600.

I'm looking for something similar for my E-M10. I'm happy to slack on some demands, depending on price.

First off, if I need a solution equivalent to the Nikon CLS (full automatic off-camera wireless), what will I be needing? I'm guessing the FL-600R and I'm good?

Second, if I'm good with setting the flash output manually (not a problem), but still need wireless off-camera, what are my options here?

At the moment I still have my SB-600 and a SC-28 cable - are those any good with my E-M10 or am I best served by selling those off? The SB-600 doesn't have a slave mode, like the SB-700/800/900.

Thanks very much in advance!


Mu-43 Regular
You can't use either the cable or the 600 on your E-M10. Totally different pin layout. They do work in M mode, but I wouldn't risk shorting the pins.
The equivalent solution would be any remote flash from Olympus, e.g. the FL-300r, FL-600r, FL-50r or FL-36r (latter two being "older" models but as good as the others.)

With this said, look up other threads about Olympus remote flash photography. You will find out that Oly's system does not use infrared beams for triggering, but actual flash bursts from the on-camera flash. For some (myself included) this is a put-off, I found the bursts to interfere with my photography. Others say different, YMMV.

Finally, I personally use both Nikon (SB-80DX and SB-800) and Olympus (FL36r) for remote camera flash, but all in manual mode, and sometimes combined. I am employing Pocket Wizard II transceivers to trigger said flashes, as I can not stand TTL or automatic modes. Well, that's just me.


Mu-43 Regular
Prior reading this, I just tried both on cam and off cam with cable and it worked flawless - i tried it after reading a bit on Google. I was in manual as aperture mode didn't quite work out.

I will take up on your advice and save up for an FL-600R.



Mu-43 Regular
It's me again :)

I did a bit of more googling with the info you provided.

I've found that my SB-600 triggers just shy of 4 volts and that Nikon and Olympus (and others) use a standard ISO hot shoe.

I'm trying to figure out whether I might have done some damage, but it seems not the case with both being standard shoes and the SB-600 a low voltage unit.

The pin layout seems only relevant with TTL and automatic signals and since they differ it wont work. Is that what should be causing troubles, the different pins? If so, how?

Thanks again :)