Why isn't the LCD "live" with my GF1?

Discussion in 'Panasonic Cameras' started by New Daddy, Jan 25, 2011.

  1. New Daddy

    New Daddy Mu-43 Regular

    193
    Jan 24, 2011
    Ok, this is going to be another newbie question, and I'm probably missing something.

    I just received my GF1, very first u4/3 camera, and I love it.
    But. The LCD screen is not live. The screen always looks properly exposed, but when I shoot, the result is not. Nothing that can't be solved with ISO adjustment, but I'm perplexed.. My previous LX3's LCD screen was always live.
    I've taken a look through the menu but could not find anything that will turn the screen live.

    Quick answer?
     
  2. deirdre

    deirdre Mu-43 Top Veteran

    661
    Aug 9, 2010
    Wow, mine's live and the result is properly exposed.
     
  3. Streetshooter

    Streetshooter Administrator Emeritus

    Dec 15, 2009
    Phila, Pa USA
    check the wrench menu...
    go to LCD Mode...make sure it's on the A*

    that should do it...
     
  4. ~tc~

    ~tc~ Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Oct 22, 2010
    Houston, TX
    I think his use of the word "live" is confusing people.

    I think he is referring to the LCD not being WYSIWYG.

    To get the true view, you need to half-press to get the exposure, then press the DOF/trash button, then the display button.

    Fortunately, the metering is very good on these cameras so it's pretty safe to leave it up to the camera
     
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  5. Streetshooter

    Streetshooter Administrator Emeritus

    Dec 15, 2009
    Phila, Pa USA
    tc.....ah hhaaa.... By Jove I think your right...
     
  6. New Daddy

    New Daddy Mu-43 Regular

    193
    Jan 24, 2011
    Yes, I meant "WYSIWYG", and your instruction solved it.

    But I'm still intrigued. Why does GF1 make you go through all that procedures before letting you see the WYSIWYG view? Why not provide WYSIWYG right off the bat like LX3? What's the rationale?

    I know I'll get used to it, but while doing the DOF/Trash button + Display button, I've accidentally fully pressed the shutter button a number of times.
     
  7. Boyzo

    Boyzo Mu-43 Top Veteran

    784
    Mar 3, 2010
    Choose A (aperture mode) choose desired lens aperture and adjust EV up or down with the thumb wheel to achieve desired exposure in real time and you will have WYSIWIG.
    This wont work in M mode
     
  8. ~tc~

    ~tc~ Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Oct 22, 2010
    Houston, TX
    No it won't - the GF1 will always gain up the screen to show an "optimal" image.

    I don't know why it's this way ... I'm with you, it's a bit aggravating and unusual.
     
  9. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason
    E-P1 is the same for me. If my settings are beyond a +/- 3EV, it will show me the optimal image, not what my camera is set too.
     
  10. mzd

    mzd Mu-43 Veteran

    241
    Nov 30, 2010
    Wisconsin
    i believe the reason for this is that, with the exclusion of a view finder, people need to rely on the LCD screen in all types of environmental lighting conditions. therefore, Panasonic decided to adjust the screen brightness (A*) so you could properly view the screen in as many conditions as possible. this of course means what you see on the screen is not always the result of your exposure settings at the time. as mentioned, pressing the DOF/Trash should accurately show you the exposure.
    i'm new to the GF1 as well so i haven't played with turning the auto brightness (A*) off yet to see if that gives you a better "live" exposure view or not? i have been pleased with the LCD visibility outside thus far. last weekend i was ice skating (bright sun, glare off the ice and surrounding snow) and i never had trouble viewing the LCD.
     
  11. Boyzo

    Boyzo Mu-43 Top Veteran

    784
    Mar 3, 2010
    Like I said set the GF1 to A mode and adjustment of EV with the Thumb wheel reflects perfectly the ACTUAL exposure on the LCD
     
  12. ~tc~

    ~tc~ Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Oct 22, 2010
    Houston, TX
    Not exactly - it applies the EV compensation to the already gained up image.

    In "normal" lighting conditions, this is not a problem, but the more extreme the exposure difference, the more off it will be.

    Note that the screen gain is tied to the metering somehow - I have had better luck with the screen being more "accurate" when using spot metering.