Why is the panasonic 35-100 f2.8 rarely talked about?

D7k1

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Although I always had some form of the 80-200 f2.8 when I used Nikon, never really got to like that focal length - either too long or too short. But in a moment of weakness I purchased a used 35-100 f4/5.6 here on B&S. Truly a wonderful gnome of a lens with very good optics.
 

tkbslc

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If you think the P35-100/2.8 is a rarely discussed lens, you should spare a thought for us owners of the cheaper/lighter P35-100/4-5.6. You'd barely know it exists from the forum traffic it generates. I really wanted the 2.8, but bought the cheap one as I couldn't justify the cost for the amount of use I'd give it. 9 months down the line I'm well pleased with it, and think I made the right choice (for me, obviously...)

Deep down, I'd still like the 2.8 though...!

I've got both! One for travel and one for "serious" stuff where the aperture makes a difference.

Honestly, the little 35-100 5.6 is keeping me in this system for ever. It's impossibly small for a sharp telephoto! I don't ever have to decide if I'm bringing a telephoto when I travel, because it's smaller than some of the 14-42 kit zooms.
 

Michael Schneider

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I haven't used this lens before, but I hear the oly 40-150 f2.8 in conversation far more often. I've used that lens myself and it is quite superb, but I'm wondering how the panasonic 35-100 f2.8 fits into other shooter's kits? As a 70-200 equivalent essentially, it seems both lightweight and compact when compared to the oly and other systems' 70-200's f2.8 or f4. I assume the IQ is similar to the oly. Are there just better options for these kind of telephoto zooms?

I have both. I started with the Oly, and it is a beautify, wide range lens. Love it. Use the Oly when not going far.

I hike quite a bit, and the 35-100 2.8 is such a great small lens. It is on my camera when Hiking. I keep the 8-18 in a bag when I need something wider on the trail.

It is so small and sharp (Oly is slightly sharper, but bigger to lug around).
 

gnik

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Considering buying this. From my limited testing, it seems excellent for portraits, but a little soft wide open at 100mm (e.g. for street candids) - is this fair to say?
 

Ironbark

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Considering buying this. From my limited testing, it seems excellent for portraits, but a little soft wide open at 100mm (e.g. for street candids) - is this fair to say?
Lenstip says that the 35-100 F2.8 lens is at its sharpest at F4 at 100 mm …

cheers

Ironbark
 

wjiang

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Is there much material difference between Mark 1 & 2? Better stabilisation & AF on paper IIRC, but real world? Worth the extra $$?
Only better stabilisation (as part of dual IS 2 on the Mk II versus dual IS on the Mk I, the basic Power OIS is the same) and adding of 'freeze-proof' actually, no AF improvements. Oh, and it's not purple.
 

gnik

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Only better stabilisation (as part of dual IS 2 on the Mk II versus dual IS on the Mk I, the basic Power OIS is the same) and adding of 'freeze-proof' actually, no AF improvements. Oh, and it's not purple.
Thanks for the reply. I can buy a used Mk 1 for around AU$450 or a new Mk 2 for AU$770 (once I've factored in the various discounts I can wrangle). I wonder how much difference the dual IS 2 makes?
 
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wjiang

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Thanks for the reply. I can buy a used Mk 1 for around AU$450 or a new Mk 2 for AU$770 (once I've factored in the various discounts I can wrangle). I wonder how much difference the dual IS 2 makes?
It supposedly gets you another half to full stop to the point of being as good or better than the best Olympus which I think is 6.5 stops. So even dual IS 1 should give 5 stops. But as with all IS, it's hard to judge.

At that difference in price I'd just get the Mk I. The best would be to find a used Mk II like I did I guess.
 

Michael Schneider

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Thanks for the reply. I can buy a used Mk 1 for around AU$450 or a new Mk 2 for AU$770 (once I've factored in the various discounts I can wrangle). I wonder how much difference the dual IS 2 makes?

I had the same choice, I went with a used mark 1. It is often on my emd omd1 ii, there is no difference there, dual IS is only on a Panny body. I don't notice any difference in use when on my G9.
 

ToxicTabasco

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Is there much material difference between Mark 1 & 2? Better stabilisation & AF on paper IIRC, but real world? Worth the extra $$?
I only have the II version. From what I understand, the upgrade was for the new GH5 an G9's DUAL IS2, Panasonic claims it has a quieter AF for video, and the ability to keep up AF with the super high speed burst of the G9. As for real world, the AF speed and accuracy is very good with super high speed burst. And the stabilization at 100mm hand held in 4K video is like on a tripod with the video lock feature. It's much more stable than a FF or APSC with IBIS at 100mm or (200mm equivalent).
 

ac12

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To be fair, f2.8 at 150mm would be lovely, but for sports/nature 150 isn't enough, . . .
Sports and nature are two very different subject areas, with very different requirements.

For sports it depends on WHICH sport, and where you are relative to the players.
Football and soccer, you are fairly close to far away, when the play is on the other end of the field.
Baseball can be fairly close if you shoot infield, but shooting from the outfield bleachers to home plate is a LONG distance. Even with a 300, I have to crop into the image.

For field sports, there are two major divisions; DAY and NIGHT games.

For DAY games, where there is plenty of sunlight, you can use a SLOW LONG lens, like the Olympus 75-300 or Panasonic 100-400 or an adapted Tamron 150-600 or a 500/8 mirror.

But for NIGHT games, under lights, most of us are fighting a LOW light situation. Sensor with GOOD really HIGH ISO (25600+), are still in the future.
So we are stuck with either 35-100/2.8 or 40-150/2.8, and live with the shorter long end, and the limited reach.
Or you adapt a long f/2.8 tele, for the long shots, just as the FF guys do with the 300 and 400 f/2.8 teles. But now you are shooting with TWO cameras, #1 a 35-100 or 40-150, and #2 a 300/2.8
Because of this, I tell my students that shooting a field game is a team project. One photog on each half of the field, so they don't need to do that LONG shot and deep crop, to the other half of the field.

Nature to me is about DISTANCE.
100 yards from a wild bear is too close, for me.
 
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D7k1

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Lets see, Mr. Bolt can run a 27 MPH for a very short time (Perhaps on a track hitting 27 MPH for half a hundred yard dash) In the real world a Ursus arctos can run much farther at a normal top speed of 35 mph. In the real world a human within 100 yards (and say car is not right behind them), is taking a huge risk. Heck, if you are in Black Mamba country , you would need to run 12 mph over rocks, plants with 1 1/2" thorns or guess what Mr. Mamba wins with a single bite:). Disrespecting wildlife and taking chances is one way to get the Darwinian award for removing yourself from the gene pool.
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Generationfourth

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I love my mk1 35-100 and 12-35 f2.8's. 5 years ago they were all the rage but nowadays the forums have moved on the new and shinier Pana Leica's, Olympus pro's, and super telephotos.

Especially nowadays I've outgrown the "shoot at wide open apertures all the time" mentality. I'm discovering crazy sharpness stopping down these lenses.
 

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