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Who Here is Using Tilt-Shift Adapters?

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by Ossiva, Feb 12, 2018.

  1. Ossiva

    Ossiva Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 31, 2017
    Few questions for the M43 community:
    1. Are you using a tilt-shift adapter? If so, what brand.
    2. Are you using vintage lenses? If so, what kind.
    3. Most importantly, how do you keep it from colliding with the camera body?

    Thanks for the information in advance!
  2. junkyardsparkle

    junkyardsparkle haunted scrap heap Subscribing Member

    Nov 17, 2016
    Like, The Valley
    No shift, but I did pick up one of the tilt adapters described here: A $24 Lens Baby?

    Gloriously cheap, and if I was trying to do anything serious with it I would certainly want something better, but it's fun to play with. Mine's the OM version, and between the relatively small diameter and large flange distance of the OM mount and the lack of shift, there aren't any clearance issues on an Olympus PL-7 body, even with a substantially augmented grip.
  3. archaeopteryx

    archaeopteryx Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    Feb 25, 2017
    Nope, nope, and not an issue since I've come to rely on Hugin for perspective control. Might not be the answer you were looking for, but the software's cost effective, compact, lightweight to carry, and does things which are kind of hard to pull off in hardware. ;)  Used to use movements in macro but, while rather different, focus stacking works somewhat better for my purposes. Used to use movements in landscape photography because large format film demanded it but the frequency with which I can do meaningfully better with physical movement in front of a small sensor than I can in software is about zero.
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  4. junkyardsparkle

    junkyardsparkle haunted scrap heap Subscribing Member

    Nov 17, 2016
    Like, The Valley
    Not to mention the fact that using the movement makes correcting the lens aberrations just a bit more difficult. As far as I'm concerned this stuff is strictly for doing fun DOF stuff that you can't really do with software... or wouldn't bother to. :D 
  5. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I bought one of these OM tilt adapters (not this mount & cheaper) a few years back & only tried it with the 50mm & 25mm OM lenses. It now sits in the cupboard being a novelty item for me really.
  6. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 21, 2013
    N Essex, UK
    I've had a brief play with a couple of tilt adapters, I'm not sure of the brand of the first (which tended to be difficult to remove from the camera at least in part down to a missing stop pin). The newer model I goy was a FOTGA which is horrible! Caution most of the adapters listed as 'tilt-shift' on e-bay have no shift control at all & I recently came across a 'shift adapter' than doesn't do shift but has an aperture control instead...
    I use a VERY wide range of vintage lenses & have more to try. Ranging from 1930's shuttered lenses to a 17mm microfilm lens & telescopes... Only tried tilt with more traditional lenses though, possibly just PK & OM mounts in 28 to 50mm focal lengths.
    3. There's no chance any of my lenses mounted on any purchased adapter would collide with the camera body. This might be an issue with some of the DIY plunger mount systems I've made, but these are more like glorified free-lensing setups.
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  7. Thanks for the plug! For what it is, it's okay, but I long for more. The Kipon tilt adaptor is very well made, and goes up to 12° — and is currently on sale at Adorama — but I fear it won't work with OM-D bodies, due to the protruding EVF. (Their tilt/shift adapter definitely will not work with OM-D bodies; see my comment on the Adorama page for the OM version.)

    If you have a PEN or other body without a protruding EVF, you can put just about anything on the front without interference. But as far as I know, if you're using an OM-D body, you're stuck with the one referred to above.

    I use a lot of Olympus OM System legacy glass. The lens is never the problem; it's the adapter that won't clear the EVF on OM-D bodies.
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  8. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Killarney, OzTrailEYa

    I bought a tilt only adapter from a guy in Italy back many moons ago (clearly he manufactures them) which is based on the bottom of the adapter moving (on a ball joint) closest to the camera. There are plenty on eBay to choose from now. Its difficult to master because really you need to "tilt the camera body" (you'll see that effect in my video) and has no geared method (as do the eBay ones) and is totally free ... because of the ball joint ... making the current ones on eBay which behave more like the TS-E Canon lenses (which I used to own before I sold out of Canon) where tilt or shift is employed only on one axis and you rotate the mount to get the "tilt plane" (or shift direction) you wanted.

    One needs to grasp a few things about "view cameras" (which I've been using for quite a many year) such as base tilts, center tilts and the "front stand" (where the lens is) and "back stand" (where the film is) variants of that.

    Go grab a blank sheet of A4 paper and draw a rectangle of 4" by 5" on it then in the middle of that draw a rectangle of 0.78 x 0.59 inches (yes) and then you have the sensor size of a 4x5 sheet of film and a m43 camera.

    What all that capture area implies is that to get a "wide angle lens" equivalent to a P14mm f2.5 you'll need a 90mm ... and so yes, Depth of Field in closer circumstances (like within a few meters or yards) is much more challenging. Thus camera tilts are employed because my 90mm is already f8 at its widest ... (remembering that f numbers are a ratio ofthe focal length and aperture pupil diameter ) So just like we (micro43'rders) get a fstop over (god I laugh at this term) the "Full Framers" you get a real boost over us larger framers (think about the 8x10 guys)

    Think about what this implies for shutter speeds in low light (like a rainforest) if you wanted to stop down sufficiently to capture this fallen tree in a forest:
    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    careful observation of that image will show the (to the uninitiated) "weird focus changes" that tilt yeilds.

    I experimented with my own home brew outfits for tilt as soon as I got my m43 camera back in 2009 because I knew immediately they even mooted it what amount of distance I'd have between lens flange and body flange to play with. I won't bore you with those blog posts, but I wrote this blog post some years back (2014) to demonstrate a bit of it using the above mentioned adapter on a 28mm OM f2.8 lens

    in my view ...: a different slant on things

    no, I don't use any vintage lenses, I use modern ones. However you may (wrongly) consider my late 70's and early 80's lenses vintage (my elgeet would perhaps be a vintage lens). I use a 28mm f2.8 a 50f1.8 in the main. Why? well as I already know with LF the advantage of TILT becomes more obvious with focal lenght and the advantage of shift becomes more obvious with decreasing focal length. That is to say that that shorter focal lengths benefit more from shifting corrections and longer focal lengths benefit more from tilting ones.

    I wrote this blog post
    in my view ...: stich n shift
    to illustrate a bit of that and also to illustrate why these days in digital why the corrections applied in shift can be applied in software a lot easier and without running into problems like the reduction of MTF (image clarity) at the edges of the image circle when shifting it (recall that shifting it essentially changes where that circle lands. Go grab one of your 35mm lenses and use it to project onto that white paper over the rectangle of 43'rds and see for yourself)

    well actually "least importantly" because one does not tilt nor shift in such amounts as to have the body anywhere near the lens. A tilt of a few degrees is normal, 45 degrees "well past it" and 90 would make it black ... its not an infinite image circle (as you'll see with that practical experiment I just suggested). The same goes for shift. If you happen to have a big grip on the camera, then simply choose to shift the other way, but I've not seen any that shift that far, and as I said (and illustrate in that blog post) shift is far less useful on m43rds.

    Here is my GH1 with my OM mount tilt adapter:
    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    Have a read and have a think, but my advice is this:
    1. think in conjunction with doing, so get a basic tilt adapter from ebay and a couple of cheap 35mm lenses from ebay. I recommend OM but FD are also good (if a bit more tricky to handle), Nikon good to, but just make sure whatever you buy you match first availability of an adapter (because many aren't available in mounts of all types
    2. work first with near-ish objects (no, not your super mario toy sitting on your keyboard, something a bit more distant, review that video at the bottom of the latter blog post for examples)
    3. review the above blog posts or (better) buy a book on how to use tilts.
    Best Wishes

    PS this is me photographing that above moss fallen log (as taken by one of my group who were all laughing at me with my "compensating camera")

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    note the "gymnastics of the front tilt" and the angles of the bottom rail and the front standard (which was almost matched by the rear so that I could more easily get the amount of tilt needed at the front)

    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
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  9. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Killarney, OzTrailEYa
    Gosh, another reason for me to not like the OM-D bodies ;-)

    Seriously though, I've never had fouling on my Panasonic bodies, is there that much more hump overhhang?


    Clearly a EP series would solve that :) 

    There was once a post on a blog buy a guy using shift on his GF1, but he got so frustrated with questions that deleted the post (as he'd already concluded that taking two or three images and stitching was superior). This is indeed what I do with my 20f1.7 with camera in portrait orientation and producing a landscape orientation image.
  10. Well, it is disappointing. Do the Pannys suffer less from "protruding EVF-itis?"

    I (ab)use µ4/3rds reversing adapters to put all manner of things in front of my OM-D. I grind the filter threads off on a stationary belt sander, leaving a nice flat surface for attaching to things like bellows mounts. A 58mm reversing adapter will fit; a 62mm will not, but barely. The 58mm adapter is 60mm edge-to-edge; the 62mm adapter is 64mm.

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    So, the maximum diameter you can fit against an OM-D body is somewhere between 60mm and 64mm, probably close to 63mm.

    I was so frustrated with the otherwise excellent Kipon tilt-shift adapter, that I briefly considered grinding a chamfer on the edge to make it fit, before rationality prevailed and I got Adorama to pay the return shipping, since they had assured me it would fit.
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  11. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Killarney, OzTrailEYa
    well looking at one I wouldn't have thought "less so" than the OM-D ... however I've never had an issue, so perhaps they do (suffer less).

    by the way, what is the stuff in the picture, surely the adapter didn't come with a bolt + wingnut and a metal flange?

    a man after my own heart ... For instance I took my leatherman and some masking tape to my C-Mount to make it fit.

    in my view ...: adapting a lens to fit the mount

    and have done similar "adaptations" to my GWC-1 to fit a lens thread into it:
    in my view ...: GWC-1 - adding a filter thread

    I always thought it was what "normal people did" , munging up stuff to test ideas, like free lensing

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
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  12. My Dad built the house we lived in. I remember going to school and asking other kids, "So what is the house like that your Dad built for you?" I just thought all dads built houses for their families.

    Mom, what is normal?.jpg
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  13. Paul C

    Paul C Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 29, 2017
    Can I suggest DXO Perspective as a potential software solution for the "tilt Shift" issue.

    I agree - the Hugin free to download programme is excellent - but needs a lot of learning and adjusting for each image....so consider
    "DXO Perspective". This is one element of the expensive (but excellent) full DXO programme - and is now sold as a standalone as "DXO Perspective" which is currently available as a cheap download - for example currently GBP £9.99 / $USD 14.99 from the Mac App Store.

    It is a very useful "one trick pony" for perspective correction - correcting perspective in a couple of instinctive mouse clicks. Furthermore, for those using Mac Photos as their main photo programme, with the addition of the App “External Editors For Photos“ (currently GBP £ 0.99 on the Mac App Store) DxO Perspective can now be used within Photos.

    best wishes - Paul C
  14. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 21, 2013
    N Essex, UK
    I've recently got a shift adapter (a Fotodiox Pro shift MD-MFT, Minolta SR mount is not my preferred mount but the one that was available at a huge discount, even getting a 19mm MD lens with it has worked out cheaper than the EF model I'd have preferred)
    The adapter needs to be aligned right to mount on my G5 without fouling on the flash, but once mounted it clears the camera in all orientations.
    I should have the chance to go off & play with it in 20 minutes or so. :) 

    It definitely works, but for sideways movement is much easier to use upside down (the flash bump on the G5 makes pressing the slide release v awkward right way up). This shouldn't be an issue at all on my GF2, or adapted to my NEX6 as neither have the flash bulge.
    It's effect isn't that useful using the lens I tried it with (a fairly standard zoom) but the 19mm I ordered on the same day as the adapter should be better when it finally arrives.
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2019
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  15. Realized I never answered that…

    You take two "joining plates," which are basically metal strips with holes for joining two bits of plywood together, and you run a long screw through them with a wing nut. Then you put one plate on either side of two doughnut-shaped bits you're trying to screw together, tighten the wing nut down, and now they are one — at least long enough to drill three holes through both pieces that are aligned, and which you can then tap and put screws into.
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