Which Lens ? - For sole use of small rooms and architecture.

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by Angusa, Mar 5, 2016.

  1. Angusa

    Angusa New to Mu-43

    Mar 5, 2016
    Hi, I hope I could get some feedback as to which lens to buy, being a super newbie at photography and M43 camera in general. I have had an Olympus EPL1, with a standard lens which came with the camera which is m.zukio 14-42mm 3.5

    I have a couple of rooms which I let out, the problem being is I don't seem to get enough of the room in as they are fairly small rooms. I was looking at getting a wide angle lens, also the room lighting is not fantastic and its also difficult getting a bright and clean looking image. Its the only real time i use the camera to be honest so taking time to get the focus right is not an issue.

    I would ideally like as little distortion as possible but can correct a small amount in Photoshop I guess.
    I'm on a budget, so lenses over £100 would be out of the question.

    Many Thanks in advance.
  2. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Ultra wide angles don't come cheap. The only thing I can think of close to your budget is the 9mm BCL fisheye which *might* work (you'll have to correct distortion) but it's f/8 so use a tripod.
  3. Mattyh

    Mattyh Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 14, 2013
    What about the Panasonic 12-32mm, these sell here in the UK on ebay for around £100,

    And the difference in field of view between 12mm and 14mm is a lot greater then you may think and it's a superb lens optically as well.
  4. Angusa

    Angusa New to Mu-43

    Mar 5, 2016
    Thanks so far for your replies, really appreciate it!! - If its sub £150 I could probably stretch.
  5. Angusa

    Angusa New to Mu-43

    Mar 5, 2016
    That sounds good, but i heard that Panasonic lenses have inbuilt stabilisation, I'm guessing in that case i would need to turn it off on the camera.
  6. Speedliner

    Speedliner Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Mar 2, 2015
    Southern NJ, USA
    If this is your only application, I'd suggest just renting the 7-14mm,2.8 Pro for a weekend and taking all the pictures you need.

    While you're waiting, practice with flash, etc... and approximate the pictures that you want to take so you can maximize the time with the rental.
    • Like Like x 1
  7. John M Flores

    John M Flores Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jan 7, 2011
    Somerville, NJ
    Don't buy anything. Take several photos with your camera and lens while standing in the exact same spot and have photoshop stitch them together. Try four shots at first-upper left, upper right, lower left, lower right-and have each shot overlap the adjacent shot by 25-30%.

    A tripod will help if the lighting is low. Keep the ISO low and put the camera on a 2s or 10s timer with each shot.
    • Agree Agree x 3
    • Like Like x 1
  8. dwig

    dwig Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 26, 2010
    Key West FL

    If you are on a tight budget, start with stitching several shots together. Start with a single horizontal row of, say, 3 images shot with the camera orientated vertically. Overlap the images by about 15-20% and use Photoshop's Photomerge tool to create a "panorama" (File>Automate>Photomerge...). There will always be some distortion when the image plane (sensor, film, ...) is altered between images, as it is with this type of shooting, but Photomerge offers options for the "projection" style and you can use Ps's various warp, lens correction, and distortion tools to minimize it.

    Using a tripod and a "pano" bracket (centers the rotation accurately at the appropriate optical point when adjusted correctly) will make things better, but with care you can do well even handheld.
    • Like Like x 2
  9. tkbslc

    tkbslc Mu-43 Legend

    A used samyang 7.5mm? It has loads of distortion, being a fisheye, but there is free software to correct it.
  10. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    To get bright and clean images you need low ISO and a lot of light . Try not to mix lights: the best is natural light only, with long enough exposure on tripod.

    With photoshop you can do a lot, and you'll need to fix something, but get a good starting image.

    About the lens you can consider a used WCON‑P01 wide converter giving you an 11mm FoV. You won't get anywhere near to the FoV you get with stitching or fisheye but is much easier to use. Or a 12-32 + Pana wide converter giving a 9mm but both are out of budget.

    I agree with the Samyang 7.5 too: manual focus, you have to defish, extremely wide. Hard to beat and used is almost within budget.

    I used the BCL-9 to shoot an apartment. It was much better then the 12mm. For small rooms after defish the angle was a little small but usable. See here, all with BCL-9 defished with Darktable (except the last ones at 12 or 14mm for comparison, check the EXIF data below the picture):

    https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/11n8Tj

    For the horizontal and circular stitching I used Hugin (not the friendliest program). I also used the in-camera HDR mode: some shots, after processing, were good others were worst then the normal version. Stitching is all HDR with simple tripod head rotation.

    If you want to do stitching you need to lock the exposure (AEL or Manual mode) to get best results, better to check a few tutorial and do some experiments first.
    • Like Like x 1
  11. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler Subscribing Member

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    In my experience, 7mm rectilinear is not quite wide enough for a 10x12' room, and hopeless for most bathrooms.

    I agree you should try stitching.

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