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Discussion in 'Panasonic Cameras' started by PR1Y35H, Apr 16, 2012.
Hi All, I need to decide on what type of SDHC card to use in my GF2, any idea's?
not sure if there will be substantial differences; i uses 8gb sandisk ultra i.
the cheapest...and I've never had any problems. Sandisk I guess are the most reputable.
I use a Class 10 Transcend SDHC card. Haven't had any problems with it so far
I've also used Transcend and Kingston and no probs. Most I believe come from the same sources
Sandisk - I've had both a Panasonic and a Kingston fail on me and I'm very careful with my stuff. I was surprised at the Panasonic though. I'm sure Sandisk cards fail as well but you know, they seem to be well thought of and for the little extra it costs now it's not really an issue.
Sandisk 32GB Class 10 HD Extreme 45MB/s and Sony 16GB Class 10 90MB/s.
GF2 should use Sandisk class 10 30MB/s. Don't use UHS-1 on your cam!
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Mu-43 App through GH2, E-P3!
I've been very pleased with Lexar Profesional SDHCs (8 and 16 gb). They've never let me down. (But then, I always format the cards going back into a camera and I never erase in camera.)
Sandisk Extreme Pro.
Low cost, high performance, great Amazon user reviews
Only SanDisk now. I have an Extreme III 8GB and an Extreme Pro 8GB that I use in the field. I also have an Eye-fi 8GB that I use as a studio-only card. I've had a Kingston card fail and a Patriot SD card literally break after a trip to the Taj Mahal, losing lots of shots, so I only use SanDisk cards now and haven't had a problem. I also have yet to fill an 8GB card and I only shoot RAW (no video, though).
Doesn't really matter. Get at least a Class 6 to keep up with HD video, and you're set. Personally, my favorite brand is Lexar, but I have had equally good luck with Sandisk and Kingston.
I just got a Sandisk Extreme 16GB UHS-1 Class 10 up to 45MB/s read/write speed for $27.99 from B&H.
RData 16 gig Class 10. It was very affordable from NewEgg, as well as fast and reliable.
How do you like the Eye-fi? Ever since the PenPAL turned out to be such a huge waste of everything, I've been considering one...
Not to mention that Eye-Fi memory cards: wireless photo and video uploads from your camera to your computer & the web. | Eye-Fi has what appears to be a white EP-3 on their home page...
do you use burst mode or bracketing? If so you probably want a class 10 card, or one that actually tells you the write-speed on the label, like those sandisk 30MBs ones. (class 10 means it should write at least at 10MBs)
Do you use HD video (but not burst mode or bracketing) ? In that case go for class 6.
Otherwise class 4 or slower is fine.
I'm almost certain the GF2 doesn't support UHS-1 so don't waste money on one of those. It'd still work but you wouldn't get the benefit of the extra speed the card is capable of.
Is your camera able to shoot more photos as soon as there's enough room in its write-buffer, or do you have to wait until the buffer is empty and everything is written to the card? I know my E-PM1 lets me shoot as soon as there's space in the buffer. It's a great feature meaning you're less likely to regret buying a slower card. If you have to wait, spend the extra to get a faster card.
Yes, these are also my favorites! Sandisks are very well-built, durable cards.
I don't buy Lexar anymore because of poor construction. They are electronically reliable, but cheaply made. They only last me a year or two before they break. Usually the write protect switch is the first thing to go, but the housings also fall apart around the contacts or split in the middle. I should know, as I've had many Lexars and every single one has physically broke apart over time. Hold a Sandisk and a Lexar in your hand, and you will feel the difference.
Why are Lexars more expensive? You got me...
I generally avoid Kingston simply because I find them a little slower to read. Whatever their write speed may be, they just seem to have slow reading problems. That may just be a mental thing though, because I've had other Kingston memory devices like flash drives which are PAINFULLY slow to use.
I also have and use many other cheap off-brands such as Duracell, Core Micro, PNY, etc. I actually really like the Duracell cards, and will buy one over an expensive Lexar card any day of the week, even if the Lexar is marked down cheaper. The Duracells are mostly Class 4 though, so I'm only comparing like-with-like. I would still rather have a Sandisk.
I have also had Panasonic cards, but only on rare occasion due to the over-priced cost of them. Like EP1-GF1, I have had the Panasonics fail on me. At the price you pay for them, that is not acceptable. Panasonics are not my first choice for cards, but mostly because of price. You're basically paying for a fancy gold wrapper.
One often talked about card which I haven't had is the Transcend. I guess they're just not common enough in this area, as I never see them.
On another note... if you don't already know, then you should be using either Class 6 or Class 10 if you are shooting High-Def video. Anything slower (Class 4, etc.) may not keep up to video write speeds. Oddly enough, they are now selling Class 4 cards which are marked "for HD Video". I don't really know what that's all about, but I assume they mean that those Class 4 cards are able to break the barrier of acceptable write speed for video. OF course, a Class 6 or Class 10 is still going to be better...
I often see people reach for these "HD Video" cards thinking that will be the "best" for video because that's the illusion given by the packaging. I just tell them to forget it and pick up a Class 6 or Class 10 card for the same price.
Sandisk, Lexar, Samsung... If it's a good brand and a good speed I'm not too picky.
I bought an Eye-Fi (in europe they are sold by Sandisk but I know they don't make it) and I'm pretty happy about it too.
On any of our cameras, the buffer is the bottleneck, not the card speed. My G2 lets me shoot as soon as there's space in the buffer, but obviously framerate drops through the floor.