what photography related item did you buy this week?

Erich_H

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The Kipon 110 adapter has arrived today (and with extra costs I did not expect, 26£ import tax). I played with it for a bit, initial impressions:
*Build Quality? Impeccable, very lightweight but very well assembled, the screws are well placed and tightened (compare to the shady build quality of the 10£ alternative everywhere on evilBay). Just on the build quality, I feel like the cost is worth it (but mostly because of lack of solid alternative, @Erich_H you don't have to remind me of your alternative solution, I will get that one too for comparison soon :D ).
*The tolerance between the adapter and the camera mount is very good, feels stable and strong.
*The tolerance between the 110 lenses and the adapter is very tight, almost too tight. It takes some effort to mount the lens, especially if the lens is small like the 24mm and 18mm. The adapter is probably going to give in after some usage ... well, I hope it will.
*The pin is a lot more helpful in dismounting then the lever from the alternative option. Though I still think a better one could/should be made, thicker top, flatter to make it more comfortable on the fingertip. The pin could get more comfortable in using it once the adapter tolerance loosens up a bit. The most annoying was dismounting the 24mm lens for being so small, it's hard to get a good grip on the lens and pressing the small pin, 18mm is a bit easier, while it's most easily with the 50mm and 70mm.
*Strange issue: The E-M5 Mark II's IBIS is less than having effectiveness. Possibly because the lenses are so light and small that the IBIS is not countering very well the weight of the lens. I just couldn't get sharp (unshakey blur) at even half of the 18, 24, 50 or 70mm recommended speeds were not enough. Need to investigate this further. E-M1 Mark III seemed to be a bit better but I haven't tested it more than 1-2 images at different shutter speeds (all Electronic Shutter).
I'm happy you're happy with your new adapter? but the IBIS thing is strange...

Maybe your IBIS is too advanced? On my Bronze Age E-PL1, the IBIS works just as good/bad with these miniscule things, as it does with bigger stuff. Can you limit it somehow? Turn off some of the 5 axis' compensation? I'm using the full 2-axis stabilization on my thing, both vertical and horizontal.

Speaking of the Bronze Age, I got my Stone Age Kine Exakta today. It's so cool. No IBIS, though. I still have to check whether it's pre WW II, during WW II, or war reparation stuff. Probably not made in the period between 1940 and 1943, as I think they only made about 400 pieces during that time, für die Kriegsberichter. Most German war correspondents were using Leicas.

Most likely it's made by pre-war parts, as war reparations, in the period between 1945 and 1947. The serial numbers got a little confused back then, for some reason. But I think it might just be 1945 vintage.

The Ihagee factory restarted production already in late May 1945, which is pretty impressive, considering that Dresden was totally flattened by your lot in February 1945.

I'll see if I can post some pictures tomorrow!
 
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L0n3Gr3yW0lf

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I'm happy you're happy with your new adapter? but the IBIS thing is strange...

Maybe your IBIS is too advanced? On my Bronze Age E-PL1, the IBIS works just as good/bad with these miniscule things, as it does with bigger stuff. Can you limit it somehow? Turn off some of the 5 axis' compensation? I'm using the full 2-axis stabilization on my thing, both vertical and horizontal.

Speaking of the Bronze Age, I got my Stone Age Kine Exakta today. It's so cool. No IBIS, though. I still have to check whether it's pre WW II, during WW II, or war reparation stuff. Probably not made in the period between 1940 and 1943, as I think they only made about 400 pieces during that time, für die Kriegsberichter. Most German war correspondents were using Leicas.

Most likely it's made by pre-war parts, as war reparations, in the period between 1945 and 1947. The serial numbers got a little confused back then, for some reason. But I think it might just be 1945 vintage.

The Ihagee factory restarted production already in late May 1945, which is pretty impressive, considering that Dresden was totally flattened by your lot in February 1945.

I'll see if I can post some pictures tomorrow!
Your lot ... my existence wasn’t even an idea at that time :p
Sounds like a pretty wicked lens, preset design? I wouldn’t be surprised that the factory opened quickly, I think the bombing focus was on key strategic manufacturing plants, optics wouldn’t have been a high priority towards the end of the war (except for Japan I think, they optics factories were more focused because Japan was a mostly naval and air power and optics were a high priority).
Can’t wait to see the pictures.

The IBIS is as-is per model, you can’t dumb down beyond specifically eliminating ONE axis for doing directional tracking and panos. In the early models of Micro Four Thirds there were cases of shutter shock because the bodies were so light that the shutter would shake the entire assembly when making an image, even on tripods. Panasonic was the most susceptible to this issues (and even more so being a significant problem on the GX7 model). This issue has mostly been resolved with the advent and prevalence of Electronic First Curtain and Electronic Shutter. And there were significant downsides to Electronic Shutter on the earlier models as well, with very slow readout of 1/10 sec which would give extreme barrow rolling on moving subjects or panning motions, banding from artificial light and even different exposures in the image as the sensor was to slow to keep up with natural shifts of light, dropping from 12-bit and 10-bit RAW to 10-bit or 8-bit data, which meant lower image quality.
Most of this issues have been solved or significantly mitigated now ... and all hail to IBIS: Das ist die Zukunft :)
 
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Changed my mind once again ........old age? Anyhoo, instead of the Oly 12-45 f4, I ordered another PanLeica 12-60 f2.8-4. After all, my GX9 really didn't mate well with the Oly 12-45 that I rented, plus the PL will add more effective I.S. and a bit more reach. Should have kept the copy I sold a couple of years ago!
 

Erich_H

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Your lot ... my existence wasn’t even an idea at that time :p
Sounds like a pretty wicked lens, preset design? I wouldn’t be surprised that the factory opened quickly, I think the bombing focus was on key strategic manufacturing plants, optics wouldn’t have been a high priority towards the end of the war (except for Japan I think, they optics factories were more focused because Japan was a mostly naval and air power and optics were a high priority).
Can’t wait to see the pictures.

The IBIS is as-is per model, you can’t dumb down beyond specifically eliminating ONE axis for doing directional tracking and panos. In the early models of Micro Four Thirds there were cases of shutter shock because the bodies were so light that the shutter would shake the entire assembly when making an image, even on tripods. Panasonic was the most susceptible to this issues (and even more so being a significant problem on the GX7 model). This issue has mostly been resolved with the advent and prevalence of Electronic First Curtain and Electronic Shutter. And there were significant downsides to Electronic Shutter on the earlier models as well, with very slow readout of 1/10 sec which would give extreme barrow rolling on moving subjects or panning motions, banding from artificial light and even different exposures in the image as the sensor was to slow to keep up with natural shifts of light, dropping from 12-bit and 10-bit RAW to 10-bit or 8-bit data, which meant lower image quality.
Most of this issues have been solved or significantly mitigated now ... and all hail to IBIS: Das ist die Zukunft :)
Well, in Dresden, the focus (sic!) was mainly on destroying the housing in the city center, partly because there weren't many, if any, military targets suitable for this type of massive air strike left in Germany at that stage of the war, and partly with an aim to disrupt anticipated German transfer of forces from the Western Front. The mix of incendiary (40%), and high explosive (60%) bombs used, would support this theory, as the "normal" mix used for area bombing, when the aim wasn't to create a fire storm, was I (10%), HE (90%). Also all of the heavy anti aircraft guns in Dresden had been transferred to the Eastern Front, to be used as anti tank guns in the failed attempts to stop the Russian advance, which made the airmen's task much easier, and probably was a valuable contribution to the almost total destruction of the city, as the Allied air forces combined losses during these raids were limited to just 7 aircraft (1 USAAF B-17 and 6 RAF Lancasters, including their crew), out of a grand total of 1249 aircraft used (escort fighter planes not included in this number).
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The destroyed Ihagee factory in the middle of a ruin field, on the corner of Schandauer Straße and Bergmannstraße, in the same neighbourhood where the main Zeiss factory used to be.

The production restarted at the end of May 1945, with 42 employees, in a building formerly owned by Zeiss which was only about 80% burnt out, and situated at Blasewitzer Straße 41-45, Dresden-Johannstadt.
Enough history lessons already!

Returning to the present: The camera body is in pretty good shape, as far as I can tell. The f:2.8/5 cm Tessar is another story. The glass looks very nice and the iris is smooth. The focus ring is completely seized up, though. Probably this is possible to rectify. Might be that the lubricating grease has fossilized.

I'm going out now to pick up my E-M1, then I'll post some pictures tonight!
 
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mnhoj

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Ordered a Sigma 60mm 2.8 last week.
Arrived with a large filament under the element. Probably wouldn't effect images but it was churning my inner OCD. Returned it and ordered a Sigma 56mm 1.4.
I tried to go the bargain route. Really.
 

Darmok N Jalad

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If anyone needs temptation, B&H currently has 2 used 40-150 2.8’s for sale as I type this. Rated 9 and 9+. 20%+ off the price of new. I was very close to getting one, but I’m trying my hardest to stick with what I have. Doesn’t mean I can’t get everyone else to spend their money though.
 
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If anyone needs temptation, B&H currently has 2 used 40-150 2.8’s for sale as I type this. Rated 9 and 9+. 20%+ off the price of new. I was very close to getting one, but I’m trying my hardest to stick with what I have. Doesn’t mean I can’t get everyone else to spend their money though.
We here to help. Let's look at your gear list make wiggle room for that sweet 40-150.
 
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Ordered a Sigma 60mm 2.8 last week.
Arrived with a large filament under the element. Probably wouldn't effect images but it was churning my inner OCD. Returned it and ordered a Sigma 56mm 1.4.
I tried to go the bargain route. Really.
I think the f1.4 will provide enough added utility to justify the cost. I know I went from disliking the 30mm f2.8 to really liking the 30mm f1.4!
 

rloewy

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We've already got one! Actually in fairness, the seller on Amazon has already, and without question, responded to say they are sending out an actual light stand... and haven't requested the loaf tin to be returned so I might have two now!

I think you now need another light stand - so you can light and photograph both loaf tins concurrently.
 

mnhoj

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I think the f1.4 will provide enough added utility to justify the cost. I know I went from disliking the 30mm f2.8 to really liking the 30mm f1.4!

Thanks for further reinforcing my switch.
I also have the 30. I think they're going to make a great combo.
 

L0n3Gr3yW0lf

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Ordered a Sigma 60mm 2.8 last week.
Arrived with a large filament under the element. Probably wouldn't effect images but it was churning my inner OCD. Returned it and ordered a Sigma 56mm 1.4.
I tried to go the bargain route. Really.
While I owned and used the Sigma 60mm f 2.8, an amazing little lens I would go with the 56mm f 1.4 because there's nothing out there like that lens (so it won't be replicated by any f 2.8 zoom lenses either).
 
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While I owned and used the Sigma 60mm f 2.8, an amazing little lens I would go with the 56mm f 1.4 because there's nothing out there like that lens (so it won't be replicated by any f 2.8 zoom lenses either).
Yes, the 60mm 2.8 is fantastic but I found my usage was so narrow that it didn't make sense for me to own it. I'm much more of a wide guy, my 30mm f1.4 is now my "tele" lens, with the 20mm 1.7 being the other main part of my M4/3 setup (wide angle is usually the Ricoh GR in my pocket). One day I may get frivolous and buy a 14mm f2.5 again, or (horror!) yet another 17mm f2.8 for old time's sake.
 

L0n3Gr3yW0lf

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Yes, the 60mm 2.8 is fantastic but I found my usage was so narrow that it didn't make sense for me to own it. I'm much more of a wide guy, my 30mm f1.4 is now my "tele" lens, with the 20mm 1.7 being the other main part of my M4/3 setup (wide angle is usually the Ricoh GR in my pocket). One day I may get frivolous and buy a 14mm f2.5 again, or (horror!) yet another 17mm f2.8 for old time's sake.
Well, at least the 17mm f 2.8 is really (or it should be) cheap but definitely a fun lens. I am mostly a telly guy, my most used lenses for the last 10 years have been a 50mm f 1.8 from Revuenon in M42 and Sigma 60mm f 2.8, I never had or used a lens wider than 14mm until March of this year. I haven't even used my 7-14mm 2.8 Pro more than a dozen times because I've been so focused on work I barely get out of the house outside of going to work.
I don't even have a lens faster than f 2.8 with the single exception of a (somewhat broken) 50mm f 1.4 Yashica Yashinon-DX in M42 mount.
 

L0n3Gr3yW0lf

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Finally did it ... I can't damn wait, they always disappear when I had the money to buy one but this time I caught one locally so I don't have to order it from Japan.
 
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Got glass protector for the A7R II to fix crappy LCD. The LCD screen on first and second gen A7 models just wears off from corners and leaves ugly marks. Worse still, if you have screen protector and you remove it after a while there is a high chance it will take off coating along with it.
For some reason Sony put a plastic screen protector from factory that wears off and not the real LCD beneath. With some effort you peel off the plastic layer and voila, brand new LCD! I put a glass protector on. Looks great now!

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