What new photographic techniques?

Joined
May 18, 2013
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The Netherlands
Are you going to try out the summer season?

Next week I go camping in France for 2 weeks. A perfect time for me to slow down and take some time for photography.

Just bought a 10 stops ND filter and planning on experimenting with it for landscapes.

Maybe it's nice to share our intentions what we want to try out as new (for the user) techniques and share the results? To inspire others and ourselves.
 

Mack

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Just bought my first IR full-spectrum converted camera. Woot! Lifepixel finally found me a really nice working used E-M1 (Third's a charm!) that didn't have the funky rear shutter dial mess like first two did.

Now I have work to do to learn how to use it. Nice it does shoot high speeds again in fractions of a second even with a dark IR filter on it.
 

agentlossing

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I don't know of any new techniques, more like techniques that I've been planning on trying but too lazy. I guess one that comes to mind is bulk loading my own film rolls. I have a roll of Foma 200 on the way with some cassettes, we will see how well I do with that!
 

D7k1

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I've setup my 4" APO telescope up with a DUO-Element filter especially for nebula. Hope to get that wonderful color with stacking of images....
 

Steveee

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We’re having some extensive work done in the garden (in lieu of a foreign holiday. Damn you, COVID!) and I’m taking (almost) daily pictures from a variety of angles to hopefully turn into a time-lapse sequence. Seemed like a good idea at the time!
 

Generationfourth

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Good question as I actually have a ton of things:

Since I've bought the EM1iii recently:
  • HHHR, LiveND, LiveBulb/Composite/Star AF- These are game changers for me because they are features that cater to techniques I used to enjoy experimenting with but are too lazy to do when out in the field due to time or weight (tripod + filters) and costs associated, and also reduces PP.
  • Bracketing- James Popsys had a good suggestion to exposure bracket but don't stack them. Simply pick the one that works for you. There are also challenging situations I come across where the histogram looks like a giant U where stacking would've saved the image. Also, mkiii has an interesting ISO bracketing that works by processing a single frame- so for portraits, wildlife, even action I think there could be a benefit. Again, not necessarily for stacking- just more options.
Other things:
  • Just waiting before viewing my files. I came back form a northern CA coast trip and was disgusted with my results. I deleted 60% of my files. Then a couple weeks later was looking with a fresh set of eyes and created a preset that worked with the excessive greens, and found many compositions once I had 'corrected' the color that was bothering me.
  • UWA- the 8-18 is a new addition so revisiting the 8-11mm focal lengths. It requires really good lighting and interesting foreground/background/sky so I've only used it sparingly. I would like to experiment more with highlighting foreground elements and possibly focus stacking.
  • Not a technique, The biggest thing for me is I wanted to write some articles on camera usability, like comparing Oly's menu system to Panasonics, etc. That is why I rented the em1mkiii (and then just ended up buying it :doh:). My day job and background is in designing User interfaces and usability. The problem I have is I'm not really that good at writing so its a pretty big undertaking, and lastly I don't know what audience actually cares about any of that.
 

Mack

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I want one!

Did you specifically choose the E-M1 for some reason? Is it a better choice than the E-M1.2?

I have a PEN-F I'm considering converting, but again, I don't understand if there might be a better or worse choice.
I first thought about getting a used Pen-F since it had the B&W and Color wheel and Art settings. What held me back was someone mentioned on here that one cannot fine-tune the AF in the Pen-F as in the E-M1 series. I didn't know if the IR conversion would affect the lens focus as with the old film camera lenses that had that red IR mark on the manual focus barrel where you'd need to move it too, so I opted to get a body that had the AF tuning capability.

Given I have my E-M1 II and E-M1X all fine-tuned using all 25 spots in both the Wide and Tele positions with the zooms, some were quite different in AF fine-tuning. The Lifepixel converted full-spectrum E-M1 only showed a +/-3 at most with a dozen different lenses so not bad. I just did a average and fed it to all the AF spots instead of taking days to do all of them.

What surprised me more was the shutter speeds are as if it was a stock camera with the heavy red filters on it. When I played with the E-M1 II and the IR filters, the speeds were in seconds to minutes. Now it is hand-holdable with the IR filters attached. See the cropped bird shot below, which is maybe 1/4 of the E-M1 frame.

4210034-IR-720nm-EM1.1.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


Even though the E-M1 is only 16MP, the images are quite sharp, maybe even sharper than the E-M1 II. I suspect it is because there is no heavy UV-IR cut filter in front of the sensor. Looks like a clear cover-glass is over it now.
 

agentlossing

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Just waiting before viewing my files. I came back form a northern CA coast trip and was disgusted with my results. I deleted 60% of my files. Then a couple weeks later was looking with a fresh set of eyes and created a preset that worked with the excessive greens, and found many compositions once I had 'corrected' the color that was bothering me.
Expectations versus reality! I've definitely done this too. I get an idea in my mind and I'm unable to see what the camera actually created until that mental preconception fades away. It's a good reminder to squelch preconceptions whenever we can!
 

Phocal

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Jan 3, 2014
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Mars
I first thought about getting a used Pen-F since it had the B&W and Color wheel and Art settings. What held me back was someone mentioned on here that one cannot fine-tune the AF in the Pen-F as in the E-M1 series. I didn't know if the IR conversion would affect the lens focus as with the old film camera lenses that had that red IR mark on the manual focus barrel where you'd need to move it too, so I opted to get a body that had the AF tuning capability.

Given I have my E-M1 II and E-M1X all fine-tuned using all 25 spots in both the Wide and Tele positions with the zooms, some were quite different in AF fine-tuning. The Lifepixel converted full-spectrum E-M1 only showed a +/-3 at most with a dozen different lenses so not bad. I just did a average and fed it to all the AF spots instead of taking days to do all of them.

What surprised me more was the shutter speeds are as if it was a stock camera with the heavy red filters on it. When I played with the E-M1 II and the IR filters, the speeds were in seconds to minutes. Now it is hand-holdable with the IR filters attached. See the cropped bird shot below, which is maybe 1/4 of the E-M1 frame.

View attachment 884702

Even though the E-M1 is only 16MP, the images are quite sharp, maybe even sharper than the E-M1 II. I suspect it is because there is no heavy UV-IR cut filter in front of the sensor. Looks like a clear cover-glass is over it now.
You do realize that autofocus adjustment only effects PDAF, that is why there is no adjustment on the Pen F. Also, on your EM1 it only effects CAF and does nothing for SAF (unless using a 4/3’a lens that is).
 

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