- Jan 14, 2018
hmmm...makes me wonder if that was went wrong above.
Here is the combined gradations in AUTO, NORMAL, HIGH, and LOW. (Ignore the Z prefix as its just a placeholder for the file.).
ll shot the same and verified the shutter speeds, f/stop, ISO never changed. I used the HDR 3-shot & 3EV change which Sekonic likes.
The AUTO is a mess if you look at the dark line. This is being done in camera too with no change to speed, f/stops, ISO, etc. Likely why my first attempts above were a broken and shifted S-curve by about a stop off in the lower shades. I had difficulty just trying to get a gray card (sRGB=118) within the 1/3 stop exposure range as that line is really busted up in the mid-tone 118 area. A little change in exposure threw it way off, and I began to doubt the shutter or diaphragm being consistent - but they are okay and just Olympus's funky AUTO gradation playing with the curves. AUTO does appear to hold onto highlights the best, but mids are questionable, as are the lower values that moved to the right. Very unpredictable gradation, imho.
Safest seem NORMAL, HIGH, and LOW.
As expected, the Yellow HIGH is steepest. The Cyan LOW has more highlight detail. The NORMAL has even more highlight detail but also a longer Shadow as well.
Well, at least I may now know why I fought with the E-M1 Mark II as it must have been set to AUTO Gradation and the E-M1X is NORMAL.