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What do you think about the following bright light / low light strategy?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by kirschm, May 30, 2014.

  1. kirschm

    kirschm Mu-43 Regular

    82
    May 4, 2014
    Germany
    I generally use 3 camera combinations:

    1) an Olympus PL2 plus Olympus 14-150mm for bright light conditions
    2) an Olympus PL1 plus Pana 20/1.7 for low light conditions
    3) a compact Point&Shot with 'large' sensor and fast lens (at least f2.0) as allrounder (especially for low light), e.g. Samsung EX1 (other types: Panasonic GX7, Sony RX100, etc.).

    Now I think I will simply remove combination 2) because I have too much problems with it:
    o IBIS not very efficient
    o focussing of Pana not very reliable (see my other post here)

    When checking the low light results of the past 2 years my conclusion is: low light combination 3) is much much better than 2)

    Am I an idiot by replacing 2) totally by 3) ?

    I know ISO performance of an Olympus (esp. the 16Mpix Generation) is much better than a 'large-sensor-P&S'... but ISO does not help if bad focussing / shaking results at low light conditions dominate...

    I have to say that I am only shooting RAW... and my Samsung EX1 (aka TL500) low light RAW-results are excellent compared to 2)

    Pls. apologize my strange englisch language... I am German...
     
  2. GFFPhoto

    GFFPhoto Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 24, 2013
    If you are satisfied with the results from 3), then it seems crazy to carry 3 cameras, especially since the high end P&S has some usability and portability advantages over the others. I never saw the Samsung competitor to the RX100 and LX7 until I looked at it on Amazon just now, but the EX2F for $349 seems like a bargain.
     
  3. kirschm

    kirschm Mu-43 Regular

    82
    May 4, 2014
    Germany
    Yes, although I am satisfied with my EX1 I think I will get the EX2F... although the specs are almost the same (10 vs. 12 Mpix, 1.8 vs. 1.4 lens, slightly more dynamic range of the EX2f))
     
  4. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    e-pl1 and 2 are kind of old tech ... In my experience with an e-p1.. which i think is of the same generation technology, and with the e-m1 5 and e-m1 is that things have moved on massively in those 4-5 years

    I would look for a used e-m5..

    K
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. kirschm

    kirschm Mu-43 Regular

    82
    May 4, 2014
    Germany
    I just testet my new PM2 (new 16Mpix generation) with the Pana 20/1.7... same results... I know, it does not have a 5-axis-stabilisator... and even if IBIS is OK, then there is still the Pana fokussing...
     
  6. GFFPhoto

    GFFPhoto Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 24, 2013
    I read your other thread. I think you might have a bad 20mm.
     
  7. kirschm

    kirschm Mu-43 Regular

    82
    May 4, 2014
    Germany
    What I didn't mention in my other thread... this is my fifth(!) Pana 20/1.7...
     
  8. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    without examples of photos and a clearer understanding of your expectations its difficult to make a judgement on your unhappiness with the 20/1.7

    I know I was very happy with it on the e-p1 even in very low light

    5329531185_cf49d93bc8_b. Good friends by kevinparis, on Flickr

    5319764075_cabc4216da_b. S1022618 by kevinparis, on Flickr

    in general I found the 20/1.7 and the first generation pens a wonderful match.. maybe I had realistic expectations of what auto focus could achieve :)

    from my perspective it served me well...and I am an impatient photographer

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/kevinparis2007/sets/72157625571589409/

    I will admit that since getting the 17/1.8 I haven't used the 20.... but at the end of the day realistic expectations and a considered understanding of technique are more important than choice of lens or camera

    cheers

    K
     
  9. Dan43

    Dan43 Mu-43 Regular

    51
    Apr 25, 2014
    "I know ISO performance of an Olympus (esp. the 16Mpix Generation) is much better than a 'large-sensor-P&S'... but ISO does not help if bad focussing / shaking results at low light conditions dominate..."

    Seems to me that your problem is the slow focussing of the 20 f1.7, so you might want to consider replacing it by either the 17mm f1.8 or the 25mm f1.8.

    Combined with a "modern" mu 43 body (such as the epm2) this would give you the following three advantages over a point and shoot:

    - you can use up to 6400 ISO and thus use faster shutter speeds (e.g. 1/160 vs. 1/80) - this is critical for getting sharp pictures in low light (especially when photographing people);

    - the larger sensor renders the pictures differently (e.g. shallower depth of field, more pleasing bokeh) - basically, the pictures will look a bit more "professional";

    - the mentioned prime lenses are probably going to be visibly sharper than a zoom lens of a compact camera.