I just picked up a Novoflex m4/3 to Nikon adapter and a Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4 and wanted to hear from anyone with the same setup, what their E-P1 settings looked like. (i.e. A vs. M, tips, suggestions) I've viewed the E-P1video tutorials posted earlier on in the forum which I found quite helpful. I currently use the A setting. Please lemme know what you're doing and what's working best for you. Thanks much! Bruce
Just received my Nikkor to M43 adapter today and still waiting to put my Nikkor-P 105 2.5 and Nikkor series E 100 f2.8 to test ( they both arrive tomorrow ). I already got the Contax G 90 f2.8 but the adapter is kind of sucks so I try to see if those Nikon lenses will do me any good. Will post some pics when I have the lenses, btw I always use the M setting for my adapted lenses on my EP1. Cheer
Hi Bruce, the exposure mode which will give you most flexibility is Shutter priority, with Auto ISO... you can set the aperture on your lens barrel, select the shutter speed with the silver thumbwheel and EV compensation with the lower thumbwheel. The camera will adapt ISO to give you the auto exposure (with EV compensation) you require at the shutter speed and aperture you've set. Cheers Brian
Ouch, I do appreciate the reply! I don't think I'm quite there yet...I guess a class in camera 101 may be in order as I'm not sure how one knows what to set the shutter speed to give the correct exposure, additionally if I want to use the shutter speed for effect. I was told by the camera place that I purchased my lens from, to set the camera to Aperture priority...hmmm. I'll try actually reading and see if some self education might actually be the best answer. At least I might be able to come up with some better questions!
Don't forget to set the IS to the proper lens focal length. This really makes a difference. Say you set it for 50mm....then if you go back to a dedicated lens, the IS changes automatically to the AF...
Got it, thanks! I've set the IS for 35mm which I think is correct for the 50mm no? I've also saved the second reset slot for re-doing everything when putting this lens on.
I have an E-P2 with an eBay adapter for my Nikon lenses. I put the camera in Aperture Priority set aperture in the lens ring and the camera will adjust shutter speed. You can also put it on auto ISO like Brian stated. Make sure to set IS to the focal length of the lens. Should work like a charm.
Appreciate the prompt reply 151, makes sense. for this lens, 50mm, what is the actual focal length I would enter? (seems there would be math involved, in which case I would defer to my 10 year old) It's currently at 35mm...
With non AF lenses...you set the actual focal length of the lens.... so for a 50mm, you set 50mm..... that makes the math easier....
Set the Image Stabilization to whatever the focal length is on lens. 35mm is set to 35mm and 50 is 50mm.
the best setting is A mode i think that means you control the aperture ring and the size of the "hole" that lets the light in the camera this is a must, as the camera body can not change the f stop on the lens barrel with manual lenses , only you can ... the computer and light meter in the camera will then choose the correct shutter speed to give a proper exposure. i also turn off histogram and level so when you cycle by button pushing to get the green rectangle you have less options to go thru [ press ok then to get 7 or 10 x magnification] so you can critically focus i like to use iso 200 or 400 mostly with fast lenses and image setting on normal
Thanks for the tip! I only wish there was a mappable button for that as I really like the level feature and it just gets too whacky jumping around...magnify green box, ok out, display to level...at 51 I'm challenged in the "hold the camera steady" department, so by the time I'm ready to press the shutter, everything has changed. Just as it is in life...
With my manual lenses, I always set the camera to 'P' mode, which stands for 'Professional'. I've never had a failure doing it this way. Cheers Ray
Dear Streetshooter-Super Moderator and probably grand high keeper of knowledgeable things that must be shared amongst those such as me with far lesser brain aperture settings. (with a title like that now; you'll have to come through for me...) I've done some reading here and I'm starting to think about it which can only mean trouble...for me anyway. I use an adaptor on the E-P1 for the Nikkor lens and when I read that the crop factor is x2, it makes sense as I've seen a 50mm on an SLR and it's pretty much "what you see is what you get" as far as not magnifying etc. The same lens on the Olympus w/adapter however acts like a 100mm tele. That being said, when the IS adjustment asks for the lens info, how does it know you are using an adapted lens? Wouldn't one set this for 50mm only if it was a native M4/3 50mm? Thanks muchly, Bruce J. Pritchard of the area of Ballard, Seattle USA
Hi Bruce, native m4/3rds lenses are described in focal length just the same as legacy lenses... you always multiply the focal length by 2 to get the Effective Focal Length (in 35mm film terms). So the mZD 14-42mm lens has an Effective Focal Length of 28-84mm. In terms of stabilisation, you don't need to worry about native 4/3rds and m4/3rds lenses - as the body automatically reads the focal length... for legacy lenses, you just dial in the actual lens focal length. Cheers Brian
Thanks Mr. Mosley...er, I mean Brian. You can now see by this writing that I am grateful for your prompt reply, what you can't see is the wisp of smoke that is coming out of my left ear as my brain gradually grinds it's way to enlightenment.
I'm sorry if this is answered somewhere, I'm new here. How does the above apply to the GF1? I have Nikon lenses from the seventies right up to the present, a Rainbow adapter and the lovely GF1. At the moment I am playing with a 70-210 f4-5.6 using Program. Help please.
