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What approach do you use to capture HDR using GX1?

Discussion in 'Panasonic Cameras' started by rossi46, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. rossi46

    rossi46 Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 1, 2012
    Hallo all,....

    I am back with more questions.
    In relation to a Sony NEX, how far behind if GX1's High Dynamic Range capability?
    And if compared to cameras like V1, J1, is Panny GX1 better in this area.

    Ok straight to my questions, how do you capture HDR with GX1? Assuming that you are going to perform some photoshop on the photo and only single shot taken (not using bracketing approach)

    1. Adjust a compromised exposure? The best balance between shadows and sky highlights?

    2. Or you underexpose the picture at the shadow? This will give blur details and noise when we use photoshop to increase the highlight at shadows?

    3. Or you overexposure, because it is easier to tone down over-exposed area?

    4. Do you use the Intelligent Dynamic function and set to high?
    GX1's Intelligent Dynamic does not do as much as a NEX's HDR function.

    I am wondering if we use Intelligent Dynamic, how does the camera work?
    Is the camera automatically captures 3 shots, then the JPEG brain combines the files?
  2. 00r101

    00r101 Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 21, 2012
    HDR in camera - NO

    The camera does not do HDR but it is very easy and better to do it PP (Post Processing). There are a number of free or low cost HDR programs out there. Most need the same photo taken at several different exposure levels.

    This is very easy to do in the GX1. Bracketing takes several exposures one immediately after the other all at different exposure levels. At minimum you will get 3 pix; one at the "correct" exposure, one under and one overexposed. Look for the key term "bracket" in your manual.You will find Bracketing in two places. One for turning bracketing on and off and the other to set up the type of bracketing you want. You can do 3, 5 or 7 exposures and have it at 1 or 1/3 EV steps. In general most HDR programs want 1 EV steps but this usually gives some pretty strong effects. For subtler applications use smaller steps or adjust the HDR program.

    With the GX1, like other Lumix cameras is never going to be as easy to get HDR than a camera that does it internally but by doing it PP you get much more control of the output.
  3. dre_tech

    dre_tech Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 31, 2012
    I use Intelligent Dynamic, makes somewhat of a difference (not HDR), it's a single exposure, and I'm not sure if it's applied to JPEG.

    If you don't want to use bracketing then just use a slightly overexposed RAW file. I've taken a few bracketed shots, but I ended up adjusting the +1 exposure from the 3-shot 0/-1/+1 series. My +1 had all the highlight detail I needed (bring the sky back to a nice tone) and more shadow detail than the other 2 exposures.

    If you take more shots 5 or 7 you could use more distant EV values to combine in a real HDR. I don't really know if you want just better dynamic range HDR, or one of those unnatural look HDRs.

    Regarding what 00r101 said about using smaller than 1EV steps... I'd say in that case all the detail you'd ever get in your bracketed shots is probably in an appropriately exposed RAW file. From my experience so far, I'd probably try with slightly overexposed +2/3 - or +1.
  4. Just Jim

    Just Jim Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Oct 20, 2011
    I just don't suggest HDR unless it's bracketed. There's not enough information in just 1 shot to get enough exsposure range. The whole idea of HDR is to stretch the EV range beyond what the sensor can read at the optimum exsposure value. In camera HDR modes just aren't intelligent enough yet to pull in that information in just one shot. Honestly, using some lens filters, and/or Niks ColorFX is a better approach than attempting a 1 shot HDR.
  5. vinay

    vinay Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 18, 2012
    To maximize working data, you want to use bracketing..

    Nonetheless, if you must do a single shot HDR, the best way to maximize data in the file is to use the histogram and expose to the right (i.e. overexpose) without clipping...
  6. emptysensor

    emptysensor Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 8, 2011
    For me you have to use an HDR program such as Nik's HDR Efex Pro (and Lightroom) to do HDR right. It seems somewhat pointless to use only a single exposure so I use the 5 shot +/- 1 1/3 bracketing on my GF2. I think the GX1 can do +/- 2 maximum, which is even better. The whole point is that the dynamic range of a shot exceeds what the sensor can handle, so trying to use a single shot is really just a software attempt to simulate doing things the "right way". Maybe some tricks can be played to bring shadows up and take highlights down, but this can never achieve the same result that multiple shots can.

    In the attached "correct" standard shot below the sky is blown out somewhat at the sun, and the deck at the lower right goes to complete black. So the sensor did eveything it could. With the completed HDR though, the sky is exposed well and the lower right is fine.

    Attached Files:

  7. marko

    marko Mu-43 Rookie

    Dec 10, 2011
    I looked at your pic, and thought, "man, that looks like Virginia", then I looked at your location and felt vindicated. Where are you located in VA
  8. emptysensor

    emptysensor Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 8, 2011
    I'm in Fredericksburg.
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