Was Gifted lenses, need help

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by DavidasaurusRex, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. DavidasaurusRex

    DavidasaurusRex New to Mu-43

    Dec 15, 2013
    I have a Panasonic Lumix GF-3. The only lens that I have right now is a 14mm pancake lens.

    My dad is getting rid of his old camera kit that has a few lenses (Nikon) and filters with it. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what kind of mount I should get to adapt these lenses.

    Here is a gallery of the goods that I've got access to (I left out a picture of the camera since it's non-micro 4/3).

    If there are any more pictures you need to help me identify the lenses (Dad tossed the boxes and the manuals a long time ago), please let me know.

    Thanks in advance!
  2. madogvelkor

    madogvelkor Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 22, 2013
    That 105mm Micro Nikkor you have there is real nice. You'll want to use a flash with it, and probably a tripod. A great way to have fun learning about macro photography.

    The Sigma 28mm should be decent too. On the original Nikon film camera it would have given the same field of view as your 14mm. On a MFT camera it is a good focal length for general photography. A nice lens to use just walking around and practicing manual focus.

    Not sure what the lens in the middle shots is.
  3. DavidasaurusRex

    DavidasaurusRex New to Mu-43

    Dec 15, 2013

    Thank you for the reply. I was a little confused at first when you said the 28mm macro was equivalent to my 14mm pancake, but after learning about crop factor, it makes a bit more sense.

    Since I am really wanting to use my camera for macro shots (watchmaking photos in a few months when I start school), would the 105mm be the best choice? If so, do I need to look for a specific adapter for it, or will any Nikon lens adapter work?

    Thanks again!

    Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk
  4. madogvelkor

    madogvelkor Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 22, 2013
    Yes, the 105mm would be best for macro. Even though the 28mm says macro on it, it won't magnify as much as the 105mm.
    (Nikon calls their macro lenses micro lenses.)

    A regular Nikon adapter will work with this. There is a version that needs a bellows, but this one is the regular Nikon F-mount version.

    You'll also want a tripod if you don't have one, it will be difficult to shoot full macro hand-held unless you have really bright light. I usually set up on the tripod, turn magnification on on the camera, and then move the camera closer or further from the subject until I have it focused just right.

    You might also want to look at some sort of lighting. The lens is likely too long for the flash on the camera to work without casting a shadow. If you're using a lightbox you should be OK, or you can get some off camera led lights.
  5. Neftun

    Neftun Mu-43 Veteran

    Jul 15, 2012
    Patrick Kristiansen
    Second that the 105 is likely a keeper. Fun focallength on m43, and probably decent even wide open. Good tip on focusingtechnique, setting the maginfication/focus range and carefully moving the camera bavk and forth.

    Patrick K
  6. DavidasaurusRex

    DavidasaurusRex New to Mu-43

    Dec 15, 2013
    Mado-thank you so much fr tour help! I have a tripod and I am looking into getting a lighting setup.

    Thank you for the focusing tips. I am new at photography, so any and all tips are welcomed.

    Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk
  7. RDM

    RDM Mu-43 All-Pro

    Well you have two nice macro lenses there. I use to use a 55mm, 90mm and a 105mm macro often with 35mm film for my macro photography, and your 24mm sigma is close to a 50mm equivalent in µ4/3 format.
    I now use just a the 55mm lens when ever I do macro shots because its the only one I have that as a 1:1 reproduction ratio.
    I think your sigma is a 1:2 ratio & your Nikkor is 1:4.
    You might what to get a cheep extension ring set if you do not already have one. They are not much money , and if you think you might want to get other legacy lenses in the future, you can get cheep µ4/3 tubes since they would be small and compact and usable with any adapted legacy lens, or just a Nikon F mount one so you can use it with your film body if you think you might get into film eventually.
    But for your lighting setup, you really only need a Ring light/flash.
    Also since you have a tripod already I would suggest one of the inexpensive generic focusing rails sold online.
    Not one of the name brands that usually go with a bellows; you don't need that.
    Something like this would be Good enough ,
    and something like this would be fantastic.
  8. madogvelkor

    madogvelkor Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 22, 2013
    The 1:4 on the Nikkor refers to the max aperture. It is an f/4 lens, made between 1981 and 1983. After 83, Nikon came out with an F/2.8 version. Looking at the specs a bit more, it looks like the lens by itself does 1:2 magnification (I thought it was 1:1 at first). You can get 1:1 with an extension tube, the original tube paired with it looks like it was the PN-11 Auto Extension Tube. So a 52.5mm extension tube will work.

    The nice thing about a 105mm macro lens vs. the more common 55mm macro lens is that you can be further away from your subject when taking the shot.
  9. RnR

    RnR Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2011
    Brisbane, Australia
    The 105mm f4 is a very nice lens... and not just for macro.

    Wide open
  10. RDM

    RDM Mu-43 All-Pro

    I think this is the spec sheet that applies to the lens,
    I see that it is a 1:2 ratio, and I guess Nikkon denotes max f-stop as 1:4 on the lens instead of as f/4.

    Yes, get the extension tube that madogvelkor recommended. I find being able to use a 1:1 reproduction ratio more useful to me, and I love using my 55mm at 1:1.
    I did not use it too often on my film camera but on my µ4/3 camera its my macro lens of choice; it is essentially a 110mm equivalent lens which is more versatile for me and still lets me do macro photography hand held.
    BUt when I use my 90mm 1:2 macro lens, I defiantly need a tripod, like you will with your 105mm lens. The longer focal length is nice but also makes it more susceptible to camera shake

    I also agree that a macro lens is not just for macro work.
    I love to use my 55mm macro for portraits too (being that mine is an f/2.8).

    As well as for hand held macro shots

    And from what I read here about your lens, it is great that you have the option of an increased minimum aperture for greater depth of field at f/32.
  11. speedandstyle

    speedandstyle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Get a good adaptor and keep both lenses. I recommend Fotodiox for a cheaper adaptor and Metabones for a little bit better one. Avoid the $20 or less made-in-China adaptors as they have problems}.

    The Micro 105mm is one of Nikon's best lenses and great for macro photography. For true macro 1:1 reproduction with that lens you need Nikon's PN11 extension tube. You can also get aftermarket tubes.

    I have never used that Sigma but I love the 28mm focal length on m4/3. I bet it is actually a "close focus lens"{for some reason many brands call that "macro"}. This will allow you to get very close to your subject. This can be useful for either getting great bokeh in your background or for simply getting good details of small subjects. Of coarse I use my 28mm for general use.

    It looks like you have a standard filter set. The PL is a polarizer and that you want to keep. It is used to cut through glare on shiny surfaces like glass. The clear one is probably a UV filter, you can use it as a protector for the front element although it will also cut down on unwanted UV light{not as critical for digital as it was with film}. The last one is a florescent correction filter and it is not very useful for digital since you can simply adjust your WB. Hoya is a good brand however.
  12. dwig

    dwig Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 26, 2010
    Key West FL
    True, but keep in mind that the field of view at 1:2 when using an m43 body will be roughly the same as the FOV at 1:1 on a full frame body. One advantage of the smaller sensor is that you don't need as high a reproduction ratio to fill the frame with the same subject.

    The 105 f/4 is a great lens. Whether used as a macro or as simply a telephoto you will need to use care to get sharp images.

    The Sigma 28 f/2.8 was considered only marginal in its day, both optically and mechanically. Since it will work with the same adapter as the 105 you should give it a try. It is a very usable focal length and may deliver good images since you'll only be using the center of its image when using it on m43.
  13. speedandstyle

    speedandstyle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    The magnification and angle of view of a lens are two separate factors. A cropped sensor does affect the angle of view but it does NOT affect the magnification. 1:2 mag. on FF is the same on APS and the same on m4/3. So to obtain a true macro ability for this lens it will need an extension tube!
  14. dwig

    dwig Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 26, 2010
    Key West FL
    True if you define "true macro ability" as 1:1 magnification. Technically the term is "photomacrography" and it refers to magnification ratios from 1:1 to 10x. "Macro" has not accurate and consistent definition. Many manufacturers have used "macro" anytime a standard 4x6 print would be "life size" or larger which means an on film magnification of 1/4 life size.

    But, on the other hand, you seem to have totally missed by point. I wasn't talking about "angle of view" but "field of view", a somewhat different aspect. At 1:1 magnification, a FF body will photograph an area 36mm w x 24mm h. At 1:2, an m4/3 body will photograph an area 35mm w x 26mm h, roughly matching the field of view of the FF body at the edge of "true macro". Since there is less lens extension from infinity at the lower magnification, the m4/3 body will also benefit from 1 stop less light loss (AKA "bellows factor").
  15. DavidasaurusRex

    DavidasaurusRex New to Mu-43

    Dec 15, 2013
    Oh man. There are a lot of responses here, and that is great.

    Besides learning about the gear stuff you all have been talking about, are there any resources that you could point me to to help me learn about the lenses I do have?

    It was mentioned a couple times to get extension tubes. Is that different from the lens adapter I purchased? I picked up a Fotodiox one that just came in today, slapped my macro on it and it's totally obvious I have no idea what I am doing.

    Unfortunately, I am a complete newbie when it comes to cameras. I am, for lack of a better term, a point and shoot guy. Obviously, having the mu-43 system is a huge step up, and getting these lenses is even better.

    I won't be starting watchmaking school until May, so I have plenty of time to start learning the basics.
    I am planning on starting this series of lessons so I can start learning my way around the basics of photography. This video was recommended for me to watch to get better with compositions of my photos.

    So, rambling aside-thank you to all who helped me figure out the adapter. If anyone has any other suggestions for learning about how to use my damn camera outside the point and shoot intelligent auto, that would be swell. If there are any tutorials online for macro photography (is this any good?), that would be awesome too.
  16. Cruzan80

    Cruzan80 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 23, 2012
    Denver, Co
    Sean Rastsmith
    How lenses work is that they are designed to focus an image at a pre-defined point past the back end of the lens. This is where the film or sensor is located (register distance). The Nikon camera that these lenses were on has a longer distance between the lens mount and the film than the m43 camera you have has between its mount and the sensor. What the adapter does (besides having two differently shaped ends to lock into place) is add the required amount of space so the lens focuses to infinity at the correct distance from the film/sensor it was originally designed for.

    What an extension tube does is move the sensor even farther away from the back of the lens. This means that the lens will no longer be able to focus fully to infinity, but will be able to focus closer than without the extension tubes. The practical application of this is that the magnification ratio (projected size of object on sensor vs. size of object in real life) increases. So without an extension tube (either the Nikon designed one, or one of the same length), at the closest point you can focus the lens, something that is 2mm across will have a projected image of 1mm on the sensor (aka a 1:2 magnification ratio). With the tube in place, the closest you can focus moves closer to the end of the lens, and it will be the same size in real life and projected onto the sensor (1:1 reproduction).

    As far as getting better, I started a thread a while ago when my wife and I spent a year abroad. https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=35726 The biggest thing I learned from the perspective of learning your equipment is try setting one variable each week or two to "not auto". It can be ISO, WB, Shutter speed, aperture, focus, metering, etc. After that week or two, you will have a much better idea of what that particular thing does for your photography, and will be able to make a better decision on whether to set it yourself or let the camera take control. For me, I usually like being in control of almost everything, but it would have been overwhelming at the start. Once you know what it does, you can also make better judgements on when to use i-auto and what "look" it gives you.
    • Like Like x 1
  17. jeffharris

    jeffharris New to Mu-43

    Jun 11, 2011
    New York City
    I have a 105mm f2.8 version and it's a fantastic lens. Easy to focus, with excellent color and sharpness. It's 1:2 magnification. Yes, it's a great telephoto, too. In fact, it's one of only 8 manual lenses that Nikon still makes by special order. So, the OP has a real find there!

    I got mine for longer reach, mainly for flying and skitterish bugs that didn't like my Nikon 60mm f2.8D lens and I found that using my 2x TC-201 teleconverter was too unwieldy, in addition to losing 2 stops.

    I'm not sure if the GF3 has a port for the Panasonic wired shutter release, but if so, it's really worth getting for tripod macro shooting. Otherwise, a 2 second shutter delay works well, too.

    I second others' recommendation of Fotodiox lens adaptors. I use them with all my adapted Nikon lenses on my GH2 and GX7. They're cheap enough that I buy a dedicated adaptor for each lens. It's a lot easier than juggling lenses ANS adaptors. I also use Rainbow imaging adaptors. They seem to be about the same quality and a bit cheaper.
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.