Using ND filters

Discussion in 'Accessories' started by Luckypenguin, Sep 25, 2011.

  1. One thing that I have found using m4/3 is that when trying to use larger apertures in bright conditions I run into the minimum exposure limit sooner than what I was used to previously. The thought of trying ND filters had crossed my mind from time to time but I've never actually bought or used one before so I don't really know what is good and bad and if there are any trade-offs. I'd be interested to know if anyone else uses or has used this method.
     
  2. RT_Panther

    RT_Panther Mu-43 Legend

    May 4, 2011
    Texas
    I've never used them with MFT but on my SLR 85mm & 50mm ƒ1.8 lenses, my ND 8x & ND 16x work very well :smile:
     
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  3. Is the ND8 and ND16 too much? I was thinking ND2 or ND4 to make up the difference between ISO200 and 1/4000sec (m4/3) vs ISO100 and 1/8000sec (Canon 50D).
     
  4. RT_Panther

    RT_Panther Mu-43 Legend

    May 4, 2011
    Texas
    With a 1/2000 max shutter speed, both are actually not enough! :eek:
    With 1/4000, you should be fine and 1/4000 gives you more wiggle room if want to shoot things like water, etc.....:smile:
     
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  5. RT_Panther

    RT_Panther Mu-43 Legend

    May 4, 2011
    Texas
    Addendum:
    I should add that I'm basing the above response based on shooting 100 speed film....:smile:
     
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  6. s0nus

    s0nus Mu-43 Veteran

    424
    Dec 13, 2010
    Chicago
    I have an ND8 for my kit Oly 14-42mm. On a recent trip, I found that I was forced to stack it with a circular polarizer to get those 1/4s exposures of moving water during the brightest parts of the day, which degraded the image quality a bit for sure. I want to get an ND16 for this reason.

    I'm also thinking of picking up some graduated ND filters.

    I hope that helps!
     
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  7. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason
    I have both an ND16 and ND8. Never needed to stack them. I use them for waterfall pictures. I don't normally mind stopping down to begin with because usually stopping down gets to the sweet spot on the lens anyways. I can usually get the shutter speed down enough to get those nice waterfall pictures.
     
  8. RT_Panther

    RT_Panther Mu-43 Legend

    May 4, 2011
    Texas
    Second Addendum:
    I don't stack my 8x 16x - I use one or the other. :smile:

    Again, my responses are based upon using 100 speed film on a body that maxes out at 1/2000...:smile:
     
  9. kilowa

    kilowa New to Mu-43

    5
    Sep 25, 2011
    Toronto, Canada
    I've never had to use ND's for the purpose of shooting wide apertures in bright light at fast shutter speeds (although I don't do that very often). By contrast, I always use them for slow shutter speeds with water - and a huge advantage for M43 cameras is that you can still autofocus properly with variable ND filers (which are basically stacked linear polarizers). I had stacked NDs before I got an 8 stop variable-too much vingetting.
     
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  10. usayit

    usayit Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Very simple things... I usually go for 3 stop ND filter. Careful.. some are plain glass and some (pricier) have coatings. You get what you pay for.

    All my speciality filters are 77mm with a combination of step-up rings. This way I can spend the money, get a single good filter, and use it across all my lenses of different size filters. Sure a lot better than buying the same filter type of different sizes.
     
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  11. Thanks for the responses. Just to clarify though that I'm not looking to do long exposures. This is to prevent overexposure when I want a shallow DOF in bright conditions where a wide aperture will let in too much light.
     
  12. Livnius

    Livnius Super Moderator

    Jul 7, 2011
    Melbourne. Australia
    Joe
    Good thread lucky...I'm actually curious about the same thing for my panny 20/1.7

    I'll be using it as my everyday lens on my 6 week trip to Canada, I will be in BC this coming winter (whistler, revelstoke, Nelson, red mountain) and I suspect the bright reflections off the white snow will play havoc with shooting shallow depth of field shots during the day.

    Curious to hear from anyone who has done a lot of photography in the snow whether an ND filter would be required for something like the 20/1.7
     
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  13. flash

    flash Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Apr 29, 2010
    1 hour from Sydney Australia.
    Gordon
    I use ND filters for daylight exposure control all the time. I actually have an ND8 (3stop) attached to each screw on hood I use. There's not much that 1/2000 will do that 1/1000 won't do as well so, I'd get the ND8 over an ND4. I only use b&w filters now. There is a big difference when using a cheaper one. I also have a 10 stop ND filter for moving water and the like.
     
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  14. Gusnyc

    Gusnyc Mu-43 Veteran

    306
    Mar 9, 2010
    New York
    What about those variable ND filters? I saw there is one Vivitar variable that would work for the Oly 45mm. I would like to use it for wide apertures in daylight.

    Gus
     
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  15. RT_Panther

    RT_Panther Mu-43 Legend

    May 4, 2011
    Texas
    I shot this as follows:

    -Nikon N75
    -Kodak Gold 200
    -Nikon 85mm ƒ1.8D at ƒ1.8
    -Hoya ND 16x

    (Can't remember the shutter speed, I was in Aperture priority though)

    6159658986_e82217f3fe_b.
    Re-Enlistment Ceremony by RedTail_Panther, on Flickr
     
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  16. ~tc~

    ~tc~ Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Oct 22, 2010
    Houston, TX
    Polarizing filter will help A LOT in these conditions with helping to keep the colors from washing out due to all the glare. Generally, polarizing filters act as ND for a couple stops also.
     
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  17. I was wondering if CPL filters would be equally useful in achieving the same or similar effect. Is it about between 1 and 3 stops that a CPL filter will reduce light transmission by?
     
  18. usayit

    usayit Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Here's a trick that some may or may not know.

    In a pinch... if you need a ND filter out in the field, you can use two CPL filters back to back (its the basic premise behind those variable ND filters you see advertised).
     
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  19. ~tc~

    ~tc~ Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Oct 22, 2010
    Houston, TX
    You don't need a circular polarizer with our cameras, linear is OK. Since PDAF needs circular, though, they are generally more available (but usually more expensive)

    Depends on brand, but yeah, 1-3 stops.
     
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