Tornado Aftermath

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by Pyro451, Jun 3, 2012.

  1. Pyro451

    Pyro451 Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 18, 2012
    Massachusetts, USA
    Real Name:
    I need a lot more practice with the 14mm to get an eye for wide angle shots.
    This was the only one out of a dozen that was worth posting (and that seems borderline) :eek:

    <a href="">[​IMG]"600" width="800" /></a>
  2. Brianetta

    Brianetta Mu-43 Veteran

    Sep 5, 2010
    North East England
    Real Name:
    Brian Ronald
    One trick is to get close to the ground, and let that provide some foreground interest.
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  3. Pyro451

    Pyro451 Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 18, 2012
    Massachusetts, USA
    Real Name:
    Thank you for the tip. I will give that a try. I noticed all my wide angle shots seemed very flat.

    Do you recommend shooting stopped way down to keep everything in focus, or letting the foreground blur?
  4. RevBob

    RevBob Super Moderator

    Jun 4, 2011
    NorthWestern PA
    Real Name:
    Just my preference, but I would stop down most of the time. I'm probably not the best guide, though, as I shoot more with tele than wide.
  5. chuckgoolsbee

    chuckgoolsbee Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 6, 2010
    Bend, Oregon
    I shoot wide most all the time. The key (and the great benefit of having a wide angle lens) is to have both items very close, and very far in focus. Get CLOSE to some object - in this case a twisted broken stump, and then frame your background. When you think your close to your foreground object GET CLOSER.

    Good luck and share your next photos!
  6. Crdome

    Crdome Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Sep 11, 2011
    West Central Indiana
    Real Name:
    I came upon this same issue yesterday. I just acquired the Panasonic 7-14, which I took it out shooting to see what It could do. I finally realized I needed to significantly stop it down. I'll be asking for assistance from our members regarding as to how far. It seems the function most often for a UWA is too shoot so everything is in focus. Finally I wound up at f/22. Is that appropriate for this lens?

  7. David A

    David A Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 30, 2011
    Brisbane, Australia
    As Brianetta said, getting close can help. It minimises big foreground areas that add nothing so getting in close to the subject or to something that relates to or frames the subject is one option.

    Another thing to be aware of is perspective. If there's something in the frame that is angled away from you, say a bench with one end close to you and the other further away, that perspective will be pronounced. The close end of the bench will look much wider than the far end. For a wall at your side, the wall/ceiling line and the floor/ceiling line will converge and make the far end of the wall much smaller in the frame than the distance between floor and ceiling at the edge of the frame. On the other hand, if you're facing straight on to the bench so it's running from left to right, or to the wall, those lines will be parallel running from left to right. That means you can control the "extremeness" of the perspective the lens produces in a given photo by choosing the angle you shoot the subject at. Perspective will be much less extreme if strong lines or major objects run from left to right in the frame, and much more extreme if they run from closer to you to further away from you.

    You can try standing a foot or two away from a wall or fence, facing along the line of the fence, and shoot a shot then start turning toward the wall or fence shooting a shot every 10 or 15 degrees of turn until you're facing it straight on. Then compare the shots and the way the lines converge and the feeling of depth changes.

    Learn to use that and how close you get and you can use the lens any way you want. You can produce shots that don't look like they were taken with a wide angle, or with a much less extreme wide angle, or you can produce shots that scream "wide angle", or anything in between.
  8. DHart

    DHart Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jan 7, 2010
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Real Name:
    In addition to the points about having near and distant subjects... BOTH in focus, by stopping down... if you find an UWA image with too much undesireable foreground, often just cropping off the bottom 1/4 to 1/3 of the frame can make a wonderful difference... accentuating the width of the angle of view and cutting the height of the angle of view.

    Another thing I do at times with landscapes - if you have an interesting sky to work with, is to eliminate the foreground by tilting the lens up to include as much or more sky as earth.

    Shooting UWA with drama in perspective is among my favorite photographic activities.

    More often than not, I stop my wide angle lenses down (to about mid aperture - not so much as to induce diffraction) to increase DOF and I shoot my long lenses wide open to decrease DOF.
  9. MajorMagee

    MajorMagee Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 24, 2011
    Dayton, OH
    Color might have provided more story-telling ability. The contrast between lush green forest, versus broken trees and torn up dirt says focused tornado damage like nothing else can.
  10. Pyro451

    Pyro451 Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 18, 2012
    Massachusetts, USA
    Real Name:
    A couple more tries...

    First, here is the original one in color. I think it is more photographer error than B&W vs. color though.


    Here is one from Old Sturbridge Village Today (not UWA, actually PL25):

    <a href="">[​IMG]"600" width="800" /></a>