The very first image from the very first roll of film I ever developed, which was...today.

Brownie

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I don't know it, it's no more than a hunch that I would work off if it were me. But the truth is, there are multiple additional steps including the digitizing, so I'm unable to be totally confident with my observation. Trial and error will get you where you want to be, eventually!
Ok, thanks. I may just do some without compensated exposure and see. To be honest, that LED lightboard is an excellent source of even light.

One other thing I may try is to use black poster board and cover the rest of the lightboard to stop ambient light from seeping in. I remember seeing that as a recommendation from someone on YT.

It's just soap - but purer than washing up liquid.
Got it, thanks. it's such a tiny amount in the mixture I was surprised it foamed up like it did.
 

agentlossing

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I think that's just a pre-soak, typically I've seen water used for that. I've pre-soaked and never saw a difference, except when developing C41 which always sheds some dye when soaked for a few minutes in water.
 
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I think that's just a pre-soak, typically I've seen water used for that. I've pre-soaked and never saw a difference, except when developing C41 which always sheds some dye when soaked for a few minutes in water.
It makes the film hydrophilic, as it is naturally slightly hydrophobic. We used a commercial wetting agent, rather than just a few drops of detergent in 500 mls of filtered water.
 

Brownie

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Check out this video on the DF96. He recommends the twiddler over inversion. Also notes that the temperature will increase development but can lead to grain. I think I could've made a slight time adjustment when processing at 77F, say 3-1/2 minutes since it's in the middle of 75 and 80.

I may try twiddling instead of inversion on the next roll.

Review: Cinestill Df96 - 06 Processing - Breaking down the PDF instructions - YouTube
 

felipegeek

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Check out this video on the DF96. He recommends the twiddler over inversion. Also notes that the temperature will increase development but can lead to grain. I think I could've made a slight time adjustment when processing at 77F, say 3-1/2 minutes since it's in the middle of 75 and 80.

I may try twiddling instead of inversion on the next roll.

Review: Cinestill Df96 - 06 Processing - Breaking down the PDF instructions - YouTube
The whole series that was presented by Stephen Shaub. The 5th one in the series is where explains using the agitation stick instead of inversion method. I did my first dev last year successfully following his explanation. I consider "successful" that there is a clearly discernable image, not that I have any skills in controlling the outcomes. I made another run later. Both sets I "scanned" using a low-grade ION film capture device that just takes a picture with it's own sorry autoexposure and low output backlight. It was enough for me to see the images but there were dull. I bought the film strip adapter for an old Epson 3170 and got the native Epson driver and scan application to work. It does a decent enough job. Scanning at 2400dpi 16-bit to TIFF file with all enhancements turned off. I figure to use LrC to do any further tweaks.
https://emulsive.org/articles/darkr...ill-df96-monobath-developer-by-stephen-schaub
 

Brownie

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The whole series that was presented by Stephen Shaub. The 5th one in the series is where explains using the agitation stick instead of inversion method. I did my first dev last year successfully following his explanation. I consider "successful" that there is a clearly discernable image, not that I have any skills in controlling the outcomes. I made another run later. Both sets I "scanned" using a low-grade ION film capture device that just takes a picture with it's own sorry autoexposure and low output backlight. It was enough for me to see the images but there were dull. I bought the film strip adapter for an old Epson 3170 and got the native Epson driver and scan application to work. It does a decent enough job. Scanning at 2400dpi 16-bit to TIFF file with all enhancements turned off. I figure to use LrC to do any further tweaks.
https://emulsive.org/articles/darkr...ill-df96-monobath-developer-by-stephen-schaub
I looked at the Epson V600 option, but all said and done it would appear the best quality comes from a higher MP camera with the right setup. The 'right setup' meaning anything that holds the negative to a perfect plane with the lens and good lighting. I have a Wolverine 14MP scanner that converts in the scanner and there is no doubt the G9 does a better job. The big plus is you end up with a RAW image to manipulate. Still, if I were presented with the option to buy a V600 at an excellent price I may consider it.

I have much to learn on all aspects of this, from developing to scanning to converting the negative. For a first attempt though, I am pleased with the results.

I'll check out the video, thanks. If I can avoid the uneven developing that'd be fantastic. One reason I think @RichardC is correct is that it only shows up on certain negatives that were adjacent to each other toward the outer grooves on the reel. Others that would've been closer to the center or the reel don't show it.

BTW, it's not an agitation stick, it's a twiddler! :laugh1:
 
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Brownie

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@felipegeek

Great series on the DF96, very helpful! I wish I could award like, appreciate, and informative all at once.

I had heard of the test strip before, they suggest developing the leader, but I like the idea of a sacrificial film better, just snip some off, that way you can check ahead of time. Also found the idea of filtering after several rolls interesting.

Some say this stuff will last quite a bit longer than 2 months if stored with a pillow of butane in the bottle, I am going to give that a try. In order to get full use in 2 months I'd have to shoot a lot of film ahead of time or 8 rolls a month, very unlikely. I figured once I'm up to speed 2 rolls at a time. I'd like to get at least 8 rolls out of a bottle to minimize cost.
 

agentlossing

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Some say this stuff will last quite a bit longer than 2 months if stored with a pillow of butane in the bottle, I am going to give that a try. In order to get full use in 2 months I'd have to shoot a lot of film ahead of time or 8 rolls a month, very unlikely. I figured once I'm up to speed 2 rolls at a time. I'd like to get at least 8 rolls out of a bottle to minimize cost.
It usually lasts way longer than 2 months even if you don't take any extra effort, beyond tightly capping it and not leaving the bottle open long during use. I've only had one bottle (out of four I've used) expire quickly, the one I currently have is a good 6 months plus since opening, still looks good. I've been on the verge of using it the last few rolls I developed, I just went with Rodinal instead for a couple reasons.
 
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It usually lasts way longer than 2 months even if you don't take any extra effort, beyond tightly capping it and not leaving the bottle open long during use. I've only had one bottle (out of four I've used) expire quickly, the one I currently have is a good 6 months plus since opening, still looks good. I've been on the verge of using it the last few rolls I developed, I just went with Rodinal instead for a couple reasons.
Ah, Rodinal - now there's a blast from the past (red and blue, IIRC)! I also used to use Ultrafin.
 

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