The GM5. The Ultimate in m43 Camera P*rn...

jaclu

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Wouldn't the clutch mechanism on some Oly lenses do the trick of pre-setting focus?
Then you can turn it back to regular focus, and just before the decisive moment as you aim the camera flip the clutch to the preset.
 

Ricoh

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The Oly 17/f1.8 has the benefit of the manual focus pull back ring, but since the GM5 has one control ring that turns, I thought the aperture control ring of the P15/f1.7 was more important so the Oly was traded.

In my opinion, the ideal street camera has everything manual: focus, aperture, shutter speed and ISO (and exposure comp if poss). FujiFilm cameras are tempting but the size of the GM5 attracted me, now I'm in two minds. I'm trying my best to work within the limitations of the camera, but shots are all too often ruined, ie out of focus.
 

hazwing

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This is a bit of a groan about the GM5/Sumilux 15 f1.7 combo when it comes to pre setting manual focus. For street work I find it beneficial to pre-focus (hyperfocally) as it speeds things up in terms of shutter response, and quite importantly getting the subject in focus. Auto focus does it but can be hit and miss when trying to get that instant shot when time is of the essence. And street shots are one off opportunities, generally, never to be repeated.

The electronic distance scale, with a flower at one end and hills at the other is too vague for my needs. What I need is a micro four thirds lens with a proper distance scale, like the Olympus 17/f1.8, together with an aperture control like the 15/f1.7. At a pinch an electronic distance scale in the viewfinder/EVF would suffice, but that's not ideal.

Unfortunately I can't see Panasonic or Olympus introducing a suitable lens, or Panasonic providing a firmware update to the GM5. Otherwise the GM5 is perfect size-wise making it an inconspicuous tool for street photography.
No sure if this will work for you, but why don't you try using the camera in manual focus mode. Roughly figure out your hyperfocal distance, or distance your subject is like to be in. Click the [AF] at where you expect your subject or hyperfocal distance to be, and then just work within those parameters?
 

Darren Bonner

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One thing I was told about the Panasonic GF1 & and P20mm lens was, If it was set to manual mode, when you switched it on, it automatically went to hyperfocal focusing.
I have just tried this with my GM5 and PL15 lens around the home at f5.6 with the camera and lens set at manual focus. Everything seems to be in focus from around 1 metre onwards (I had focus peaking on). I gave the focus ring a tap several times and each time the focus shows just before infinity in the photos below. I also have the Olympus 15mm BCL which has a hyperfocal indent just before infinity, please see pictures below. give it a go and see if it works for you.

View attachment 42302215mm focus (1 of 1) by Darren Bonner, on Flickr

View attachment 42302315mm focus (1 of 1)-2 by Darren Bonner, on Flickr
 

Ricoh

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Darren, I've just tried setting the camera to M and the lens to MF as you said. Viewing the resulting pictures taken at f8 at 2:1 in LR, I don't think I'm getting focus quite as close as 1m, however I need to do more accurate measurements to be certain, such as setting targets at 1m intervals in the garden or something similar.
But as you said, no matter where the focus point was prior to switching off, it always wakes up following power-on with the focus just before the red zone, ie exactly as shown in your thread above.

What does the red zone represent, do you know?

Many thanks for the heads up on this.
Steve.
 

Darren Bonner

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Darren, I've just tried setting the camera to M and the lens to MF as you said. Viewing the resulting pictures taken at f8 at 2:1 in LR, I don't think I'm getting focus quite as close as 1m, however I need to do more accurate measurements to be certain, such as setting targets at 1m intervals in the garden or something similar.
But as you said, no matter where the focus point was prior to switching off, it always wakes up following power-on with the focus just before the red zone, ie exactly as shown in your thread above.

What does the red zone represent, do you know?

Many thanks for the heads up on this.
Steve.
Hi Steve, as soon as you hit the red zone, it is in infinity, take a look at this link and scroll down to Panasonic http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/features/who-killed-infinity-focus , it explains it in there. As you see on the Olympus body cap lens, infinity is displayed as the 8 on it side and the dot next to it is the hyperfocal setting. Similar position as the screen set up on our cameras.
I had another quick go at measuring focusing at f8 and the closest I could get focus peaking to work is around 145cm. Good job I don't have to estimate distances for a living. Need to do some real world testing to confirm.
 
Last edited:

Ricoh

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Thanks Darren, that's really helpful of you, you're a real star!!
The link you provided answers many questions I had often pondered upon.
Now I'm aware how Panasonic have engineered the infinity setting (in fact as you said as much in your earlier post above), I feel more comfortable in setting distance, or making an educated guess, and then confirming using focus peaking.
In real life I often point the camera in the direction of my chosen subject(s) without looking at the screen or EVF (street is quick, there's no posing that's for sure) so focus peeking has to be done well in advance before looking for the picture.
Now that I aware I'll perform some hyperfocal tests in preparation for the real world.
Many thanks again.
Cheers,
Steve.
 
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