Taking Photos through Glass

You'll need a polarising filter for best results. The filter will reduce relections on the window. You'll also want fast shutter speeds to reduce motion blur.


Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Mu-43 App

 

+1...Circular polarising filter will help reduce reflections depending on the angle used at, they also help reduce the effects of haze

 

Your nemesis might well be dirt. Bring a small bottle of window cleaner and rags. If you're able to see where you'll be sitting before boarding, try to give the outside of the window a quick cleaning in addition to the inside surface. (light planes excepted ...)  

 

I've done it many times. It should be fine with just a few of the issues mentioned above. Here's an example of the kind of reflections you'll get.


If it's a double pane window you may also notice some strange double highlights in the Bokeh. There's really nothing that can overcome that artifact.

 

Without a polarizer....


Without Polarization by RedTail_Panther, on Flickr


With a polarizer...


With Polarization by RedTail_Panther, on Flickr

 

Just a couple of questions on the filters. Would it be better to go with a Linear polarizer or a Circular one? And what are your favorite brand(s) for them?

 

Motion blur can be cool...I was on one train and I caught another going in the opposite direction:


And the staple motion shot:


But you can freeze things...here I was trying to capture a crossing using the train's horn for timing (the trains in North America have to blast the horn 4 times (2 long, 1 short, 1 long) 15-20 seconds before coming to a crossing):


BTW, those pics were taken with an ultrazoom bridge camera back in 2002...using a dSLR they will be much easier to achieve due to the lack of shutter lag, which is the norm for bridge cameras back then.

 

For m43 it does not matter . Not much selection is made of linear. B&w, hoya, Marumi are all good IMHO .

 

Another option for cutting reflections is to use a rubber lens hood placed right up against the glass.

 

+1

This is my favorite method when possible.

 

I took a whole bunch of images about a month ago from a building in the Baltimore harbor. Reflection are tough and unfortunately I don't have a polarizer yet.

 

I've never tried that before. Thanks for the tip.

 

+1 on this...I have done alot of aquarium shots with this technique. The rubber hood is used to quiet the vibrations from the glass

 

Or just the lens/hood itself. The rubber is always better in these situations, but not necessary.

Gary

 

Rubber hoods allow you to have the camera at an angle without letting in reflections so often work much better from a composition point of view. You also want to avoid touching the glass with anything that will transmit engine vibration to the camera. Engine induced camera shake has ruined thousands of photos from light aircraft.

I have on occasion used a hat or jacket, to block offending reflections.

On some aircraft using a polariser can show stress pattens in the windows. (I assume they were plastic windows with a polariser film added to the outside, as these sort of coloured bands are usually produced using crossed polarisers)

I'd recommend taking both a polariser and a rubber hood. Remember to make use of your aperture to loose any dirt on the windows - if it's far enough out of focus it will only reduce the image contrast and not otherwise be visible.

 

When I was learning about shooting through glass I had some wonderful NYC night shots ruined by reflections. Since then I've bought a sheet of black cloth that I can drape over my camera and shoulders to block out the offending light source. Felt is best but it is also the most heavy.

 

Often, I'll cup my hand at the edge of the plastic/metal hood in lieu of a rubber hood. Works in a pinch.

G