I am here on a gap weekend between work in Joburg and Dar es Salaam. It is the end of the rainy season, and the streets are empty of the tourists that throng here in June, July, and August. The people are warm, kind, and welcoming. Children play. Men tend shops and talk politics on corners. Women are regal in magnificent colors. It is a city of the senses - old, dirty, humid, majestic, tolerant and relaxed. There are stray cats everywhere and the sea surrounds. Fresh fish fill the markets, next to spices, fruits, and wonderful breads. I did not know Tanzania before this trip but I feel welcome here and will return.