Spot metering on single AF point

Photon

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It is available on the EM5 mkii. I forget how to activate it (probably similar to other Olympus cameras), but I use it all the time.
I’ve looked through the manual and couldn’t find it. Happy to be proved wrong though.
Try menu, exposure, AEL metering, and select the spot meter option.

Then just below, go into the spot meter menu and make sure the three boxes are checked.

Edit: it seems as if this requires firmware 3.0 or later for the EM5 mkii.
 
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PakkyT

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I just use the wysiwyg for exposure, and put the focus point where I need it.
Right but if the exposure isn't right when you lock in your focus point, how do you lock in your exposure you do want with the focus point you also want (which may not be the same spot)? That is kind of the point of the discussion. We all use wysiwyg, but getting there is the topic.
 
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I forget the setting, but I have AE/AF set for AF only. So, unless I'm missing something, it's two separate functions. I'm often shooting in manual, sometimes in aperture priority.
 

PakkyT

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I forget the setting, but I have AE/AF set for AF only. So, unless I'm missing something, it's two separate functions. I'm often shooting in manual, sometimes in aperture priority.
If your focus point is not at the center of your screen and the center is not at the exposure you want, when you press the shutter, or in your case the AEL/AFL button, the camera will meter the exposure wrong and lock AF ready to take the photo.

The original discussion was if there was a way to lock the exposure being metered where the AF point is. Some of the newer models do this but many of the older models do not and always meter to the center. In that case, the discussion evolved to discuss the traditional use of the AEF button to put the exposure level of your scene at the center of your view (when your focus point is elsewhere), lock the exposure, then recompose to then lock your focus point. Sounds like you have no way to lock an exposure that isn't in the center of your scene or isn't on your focus point?
 
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In manual mode, the exposure stays where I put i, regardless of what buttons I press. I don't use auto ISO.

I'd have to check at some point, but I'm pretty sure you can disable shutter button exposure in Aperture priority as well--though TBH, those menu settings have always confused me somewhat. But I haven't noticed any wrong exposures using AP.
 

RAH

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Sounds like you have no way to lock an exposure that isn't in the center of your scene or isn't on your focus point?
If he is using MANUAL mode, the camera doesn't change the exposure no matter what button you push (unless you use Auto-ISO, I suppose). This discussion hinges on using some semi-auto mode like Aperture Priority (which I usually use), Shutter priority, or Program. I think a lot of people kind of think of this as a given, especially when discussing AEL/AEL.
 

PakkyT

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Watching one of Rob Trek's tutorial videos I found one that is very relevant to this discussion and more specifically on the comments above concerning manual mode.

As a side note, I have watched a few of his videos in the past and really liked them and then kind of forgot about them. I have decided I really need to watch a LOT more of them because he really offers some fantastic tips and techniques and his presentation is really down to earth. Anyway, back to the post...

Olympus Tutorial: Better Exposures with Spot Metering & Flash ep.232 is the one I was watching and in it he gives an excellent demonstration of where the exposure metering can be very useful even when shooting in full manual mode while using a TTL flash. If you want to save a little time, you can skip to 6:20 where he talks about linking the exposure spot to the focus spot on newer models (which prompted this thread).

Executive summary of the previous 6:20: He demonstrated kind of obvious stuff like taking a photo of the dim room with bright window with no flash, with TTL fill flash, trying the built in HDR mode, etc. to show how some of these kind of get you there but none truly overcome the high dynamic range of the scene he is shooting. Then he turns on a few setting like changing exposure to SPOT, turning on the blinkies and adjusting the histogram alerts where the blinkies occur from 255 & 0 to their tighter limits 245 & 10. For anyone who has not seen his videos, he tends to start with the camera setting reset to defaults to show which setting should be changed, so often a few of the settings he shows you will already be there.

The rest of the technique is a brilliant way to really get more control out of the TTL ability of your camera and flash to get what you want rather than what Olympus thinks you should get.
 
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