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Some questions regarding the E-M1

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by deang001, Oct 18, 2013.

  1. deang001

    deang001 Mu-43 Veteran

    230
    Sep 16, 2013
    Hong Kong
    Dean
    Currently I'm a GH3 user and will probably buy the E-M1. We still haven't got any here in Hong Kong so I have to wait until the end of this month to actually see one. Not selling my GH3 as it's just a freak for video, but I've really come to love M43 and want to use it more for stills since I have so many nice M43 lenses now and maybe retire some of my heavy Nikon gear. Don't get me wrong, the GH3 is fine for stills, but the E-M1 has so much fine tech in it I can't resist :smile: The huge VF alone is worth it for me. Well done Olympus !!

    Some questions ...

    - Can someone explain the "my sets" functionality? Ideally I would love one dial for ISO and one to change aperture when in Aperture Priority ... with a live read-out in the VF of the corresponding changes to shutter speed when changing ISO. This is very handy for seeing how low a speed you can get away with with the IS engaged without sacrificing too much ISO or leaving it up to auto ISO ... without taking your eye off the subject. Like "Easy ISO" on a Nikon. I'm pretty sure this can't be done but it gets pretty close doesn't it?

    - With Auto-ISO, there is no way of setting a min shutter speed is there?

    - With regards to focus points, I like to choose my own focus point. Do I need to press some button on the camera before I use the 4 way selector to change the focus point or can I just use the 4 way dial straight up without the step of pressing another button first?

    - And also, is there anyway of locking the focus point to say the centre for those times I just want it in one position? This is handy for street shooting where everything happens quickly and at least you know exactly where the focus point is. Switching the touch screen off helps this, but a lot of times on my GH3 the focus point has moved around from the last shot as the dial has been accidentally bumped.

    - Again on focus points, a neat feature on the GH3 is that when you have the camera to your eye, you can actually move the focus point directly from the screen with your thumb. Makes composing easy in certain situations. Can you do this on the E-M1?

    - On my D800E, I use the "AF ON" button to focus, but hate the positioning of the "AF/AE" button on the GH3, so I just use the shutter button to focus. How are people finding the positioning of the "AEL/AFL" button on the E-M1? Is it nicely placed for your thumb and comfortable to use for focus?

    - In relation to exposure while using matrix metering (not sure what it's called in Olympus) is the camera using any sort of bias to whats underneath a selected focus point in it's evaluation? Hopefully it is just using matrix and evaluating the scene as a whole and not giving any weight to what is actually underneath teh selected focus point. The latest Nikons do this (give bias to what's underneath the focus point) and it drives me insane :mad:

    - I understand that continuous AF is not going to be the same in an E-M1 as it is in a big FF DSLR, however I hear it's much improved. Just how good is it? All I'd be looking for is for it to be able to say constantly focus on a person walking fast ... not sport or anything like that. Any issues with continuous AF? Tracking, I never use.

    - I'm in two minds as to whether I should get the new 12-40/2.8 or not as I already own and really like the 12-35/2.8 Pana and will continue to use it on my GH3 anyway. I hear the focus speed is exceptionally good on the E-M1 ... will I see any improvement in focus speed on my Pana lenses?

    - Lastly, when street shooting, I usually switch any sort of IS off ... do I need to switch off IS on the E-M1 when shooting fast moving street action?

    Thanks, and sorry for all the questions !!
     
  2. HappyFish

    HappyFish Mu-43 Top Veteran

    983
    Sep 8, 2012
    Chad
    mysets are whatever you set like other cameras
    so you can always have one with a certain style or position of focus to start
    you can also set them to a dial now
    I have one set to the art for my macro setup so when I put that lens on everything is ready for me the other I have set to iauto which is my base manual setup I use all the time :) a nice feature this time around


    auto iso max/min or any control of speed sadly no :(

    to answer your spin the dial and see live not really but kinda :)
    the AEL/AFL switch has 2 positions you can turn it on so in the down position you can then use a dial to select iso the other for WB some without hitting a button some with hitting fn button and you see the change in the screen you have a few modes to choose from so look for that and it will make more sense than me :) as there are a few modes for this that could work (mine at this point is in mode 5 so I can flip it down for manual focus up for auto)

    I have my iso set to FN2 button easier than flipping a switch and I can press it once and I do see the speed change in A mode or in shutter you can see the aperture change to get a idea where you want to be :) of course in manual you wont see the change ? so kinda yes but you have to hit a button first not sure if you can have it to a dial without hitting a button first ? did not find a way of doing this and would not like that anyway to avoid mistakes I like all functions locked by a button press myself :)


    you can assign a FN button to focus point reset small point for me easy to get back to dont hit other buttons and move it its locked ;) hahaha

    set focus from screen ? not that I know :) but with camera to your eye you can move the focus points from the 4 way pad then all you do is hit the shutter and its there or use your dials to change the point
    this is also why I have the center reset button handy for me (a front button) and choose the focus point other front button I am more center recompose so want to get back to center quickly
    now for me with the two front buttons for my focus all with my fingers not leaving the dials
    better for me :) set your front buttons for your finger to choose the select focus point then use the dials your finger is already on :) this way my ring finger hits it and I can dial where I want quicker than the pads :) and hands stay in place on the lens and gripping
    of course the rear 4 way buttons also work for focus points or can be set for other things ? lots of options customizing

    ael/afl is finally like it should be the EM-5 was not useable ! you could assign it to a front button ? but I like it where it is canon and nikon are like this so its muscle memory for me :)

    not sure about the matrix style bias ? sorry :) whatever it is I am kinda used to it on both anyway

    continuous ? have not tested it much yet I do weddings and portraits so for me its about kids and people and for home its my kids and pets I wont know till I use it a bunch under conditions why I still shoot with a DSLR ? hope I can dump the DSLR one day so can report back on catching moving people either with continuous or just flat out fast enough to grab it and take the pic quicker than people walk ;)


    I will sell you my panny 12-35 which I love when the oly comes out :) hahaha
    I want a locking hood !!!!! and I think it might be better but I don't have a panny I use that lens on so I dont need the in lens stabilization if I did have a panny M4/3 I use that lens on I would keep the panny so you can stabilize it ? thats me though :) its a great lens ! sold my canon 24-70 and tested the nikon 24-70 and did not buy it use this instead ! IMHO they are a touch cleaner on the edge than nikon or canon but thats another thread :)

    IS IBIS is INSANE good you can switch it off but its so good for what I do again portraits weddings I leave it on all the time so that is a personal choice and most likely depends on lens but its awesome want all cameras to get it !!!!


    hope this all helps sorry I write poor :)
     
  3. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Bangkok
    rob collins
    ok
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. HappyFish

    HappyFish Mu-43 Top Veteran

    983
    Sep 8, 2012
    Chad
    pretty sure it just when flash is on and fired :)

    unless I am missing something :) would be curious the nikons you can set min speed
    tried it on the EM-1 still went past that low shutter ?

    very curious :)

     
  5. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Bangkok
    rob collins
    Nope. Although obviously it does work that way with the flash.

    Changing the shutter time limit for Auto ISO can be done by changing the Flash Slow Limit in Custom Menu F. In practice the available range is between 1/30 second to 1/250 second. Note that the camera either use this shutter time or the old 1/equivalent focal length of your lens-rule to determine the shutter time limit, going with whichever is shortest.

    http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3196133

    And I have just tested it. Try say putting on a 25 1.4 and set your flash slow limit to 1/200. Now you will find that the shutter speed will not go below 1/200 in 'A' mode and auto iso.
     
  6. M4/3

    M4/3 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    713
    Sep 24, 2011
    You might end up using your E-M1 alot for 1080p30 video recording too because you may really like it's 5 axis image stabilization, the rich looking Olympus colors and rich sounding audio with good wind noise suppression.
     
  7. kenez

    kenez Mu-43 Regular

    125
    Apr 18, 2012
    [ In relation to exposure while using matrix metering (not sure what it's called in Olympus) is the camera using any sort of bias to whats underneath a selected focus point in it's evaluation? Hopefully it is just using matrix and evaluating the scene as a whole and not giving any weight to what is actually underneath teh selected focus point. The latest Nikons do this (give bias to what's underneath the focus point) and it drives me insane ]

    In David Busch's book about the EM-5 he states that ESP metering "slices up the frame into 324 different patterns and evaluates them giving priority to the center areas". I would think that would also hold true for the EM-1. ]
     
  8. HappyFish

    HappyFish Mu-43 Top Veteran

    983
    Sep 8, 2012
    Chad
    yeah mine is at 1/8th normally for the flash dont worry to much other wise often down in that 1/15th 1/8th a lot
    if it works good to know for others though :)
    thanks :)

    tried it mine goes below 200 though ? but I compared and it kinda tries to hold it up a bit higher it seems ? but for sure compromises a bit but again good to know the camera more :)


     
  9. deang001

    deang001 Mu-43 Veteran

    230
    Sep 16, 2013
    Hong Kong
    Dean
    Thank you all for taking the time to respond to my questions !! It's really helped out.

    I think the take away is that the E-M1 is a highly configurable camera and and can be set up to basically do what anyone wants to a certain degree.

    @robbie36 ... some amazing info there. Flash Slow Limit at 1/250 would do me fine for grabbing night street shots and freezing most of the movement while letting the ISO float. Great to know.
     
  10. deang001

    deang001 Mu-43 Veteran

    230
    Sep 16, 2013
    Hong Kong
    Dean
    This does seem like the only area the camera could have been pushed further. Just 24 & 25p with maybe a small increase in bitrate would have been enough. The 5 axis image stabilisation is just begging to be unleashed into the hands of the pro video guys :smile:

    The cynic in me can't help but think there was some sort of back room hand-shake between Pana & Olympus concerning what features they each would develop & leave out of their respective cameras :tongue:

    I am very much looking forward to using the 5 axis image stabilisation in video ... just incredible.
     
  11. Arvin

    Arvin Mu-43 Regular

    129
    Jan 18, 2012
    I'm also very curious to know if AF-ON can be set for this button and if it's comfortable to do so. I've started using this method on my D600 and its much more effective for me during weddings.

    Anyone try this yet?
     
  12. Mikefellh

    Mikefellh Mu-43 Top Veteran

    939
    Jun 7, 2012
    Toronto, Canada
    To put it simpler, it's used to set the camera's settings to a default state. Imagine a car that adjusts the seats, mirrors, and radio stations to YOUR liking, rather than your spouse's.

    Personally I have MySets for studio, outdoor, lowlight, etc.

    But like the car where you can adjust the seat further after your default has been loaded, you can then change the settings on the camera further for the conditions.

    Think of MySet like a custom reset, vs a factory reset which resets everything back to zero!
     
  13. mattia

    mattia Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 3, 2012
    The Netherlands
    Musea are just a custom setting. All major cameras have them, just that the Oly ones terribly implemented in the E-M5 (menu diving or contortionism were the ways to do it). On my 5DII I have a custom setting for HDR (manual, ISO 400, single AF, bracketed shots, multiframe drive mode), which is what gets used most.
     
  14. deang001

    deang001 Mu-43 Veteran

    230
    Sep 16, 2013
    Hong Kong
    Dean
    Thanks again for this tip ... just got the E-M1 and this feature is brilliant !!
     
  15. radamo

    radamo Mu-43 Regular

    183
    Aug 22, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Rich
    Rob,
    I have ISO-Auto set with my Flash low limit set to 1/60. While shooting in A mode I was going all the way down to 1/5 of a sec or lower. Are you maybe not pushing the high end of your ISO limit? Or am I still missing something?
    Rich
     
  16. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Bangkok
    rob collins
    I am a bit confused what you are asking. You can set your upper limit for iso under auto-iso - say 1600. You can set your minimum shutter speed via the flash limit.

    If you have set the minimum shutter speed to 1/60th, the logical reason for the shutter speed to be set to 1/5th is that you are already at your iso limit - 1600 - and because it is very dark you need a long shutter speed.
     
  17. radamo

    radamo Mu-43 Regular

    183
    Aug 22, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Rich
    Sorry for my denseness on this one. If the minimum shutter speed is set to 1/60 are you saying that it can go lower if it "needs" to for proper exposure? But it will attempt to stay above it by raising the ISO within the limits set to attain proper exp? If so, then I just misunderstood the Flash minimum shutter speed discussion... It is a soft limit and not a hard one. Is that what you mean?
     
  18. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Bangkok
    rob collins
    Yes consider 1/60th a trigger point at which it will switch isos from 200 to 400 etc. But once it reaches your iso limit - say 1600 - the the limit and proper exposure will take priority will may for the shutter speed longer than 1/60th.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  19. radamo

    radamo Mu-43 Regular

    183
    Aug 22, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Rich
    Thanks for your patience... Will have to re-test with that in mind.