So... getting into film again (for school), stick with the MZ-6 or go different?

Discussion in 'Open Discussion' started by KBeezie, Dec 16, 2016.

  1. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    Getting near the end of my Associates in Fine Arts (with emphasis on Photography), I'm down to just a few classes photo related, so next semester I'm taking Film Image Processing and Advanced Digital Imaging (after which the only photo related classes I have left would be my choice of either alternative formats, or view camera).

    For the last 5~6 years I been pretty much only shooting with Olympus Mirrorless, a little before that it was a mix of either using my Pentax K-10D DSLR and a vast array of film cameras (working for a vintage camera store had perks, like 100+ years of combined experience to pick from, and being able to shoot and develop everything from a minox up to a 5x7 Linhof). And before that was the first Canon Digital Rebel (the old 6.3megapixel little guy). Because of the film 'phase' I'm no stranger to just roughing it full manual with an adapted lens and manual controls and all that.

    Right now because of the adaptability of Olympus I still have three Pentax lens in my arsenal, a Pentax-M 50/1.4, Tamron SP 90/2.8 Adaptall 1:1 Macro, and a Rokinon 85/1.4. So to me it makes the most sense to just go that route for 35mm, especially since on the Leica Threadmount side, I only have a Industar-61L/D (55/2.8), Industar-10 (50/3.5), and Jupiter-11 135/4, so using my Fed-2A wouldn't be all that fun.

    I do still have my Pentax MZ-6 body though. But I don't like the lack of a split-prism focusing screen (it's just a flat matte screen behind a 0.7x 92% viewfinder).

    But wondering if it might be worth my while to get a little adventurous, either going full mechanical like a K1000, or different system altogether (ie: Olympus OM-1 etc and a 50/1.4). Mainly because If I'm going to go film, I want the external controls, and a nice big viewfinder with the prism ring or split prism for manual focusing (since none of my pentax lens are AF). Thinking budget of 150-175 if I do.

    If the lens/etc wasn't "Collector" status now, I would try for a Canon P or the Olympus Pen-FT with a 38/1.8 (though the latter wouldn't normally be suitable for the class being a half frame), both of which I once owned.

    Just to show off, some of the film stuff I did years ago on my own, self-developed/print out of the bathroom.

    Canon P, Voigtlander Ultron 35/1.7, Kodak Portra 160NC
    efe442b7e7d6eeaee6bd7f9ac21b002c.

    Canon P, Voigtlander 21mm f/4 Color Skopar, Kodak Tri-X 400, Kodak Tmax 1+4 68° 6min
    curves____loverly_curves__by_kb244.

    Crown Graphic 4x5, Graflex Optar 135mm f/4.7, Polaroid 669 (ISO 80)
    cattie___polaroid_one_by_kb244.

    Hasselblad 500C/M, Carl Zeiss 80mm f/2.8 T Planar, Kodak T-Max 100, Kodak TMax Dev 1+4 70F 7mins
    __cutie___by_kb244.

    Olympus Pen-FT, F.Zuiko 38mm f/1.8, Ilford FP4+ 125, Kodak Tmax 1+4 68F 8min
    heather___penft_by_kb244.

    So... suggestions?
     
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  2. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    In less you just want to go fully mechanical just go with what you have I say.

    A couple of lenses and leave it at that.

    Unless you're talking 120 roll it's all much of a muchness with 35mm bodies

    If it's working use it :)

    That 120 blad shot is nice. If you haven't looked into it try my scanning pointers about setting levels.
     
  3. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    The main issue is the MZ-6 when I Got it I had autofocus lens. With manual focus I'm just relying off of a dim pentamirror with just a flat matte focusing screen and all my Pentax compatible lens are manual focus only.

    Seems like in regards to what I desire (doing a bit of googling/etc), the Pentax K1000, KX, or LX would fit the bill, but the LX is $$$ (but would have the better shutter curtain, viewfinder, etc). I think the KX is just an upgraded K1000.
     
  4. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
  5. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    ahh that sucks

    LX is cream of the crop and leather bound collectors item stuff ... what about the MX?

    Good sized mirror and beautiful little body ... little collectable too. Watch for broken cables that connect the speed dial inside the view finder.

    When you use an MX and realise what year it was made you'll look again at all the "progress" that was(n't) made in the following 25 years of presenting data to the photographer...
     
  6. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    MX seems to be a bit on the small size. Though some reading suggests the viewfinder is better on the MX than it is on the K1000 sized KX. (I wonder if the focusing screen is replaceable on any of these).
     
  7. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    the viewfinder is amazing ... and it won't be long after you start using it that you don't find it too small (unless you have huge hands). I owned one for a few decades (as well as an OM-1 which would be my other suggestion).

    The LED light meter system on the MX was fantastic and heaps easier to see with low light / dark backgrounds (and I did a little stage photography work too) than the black match needles are
     
  8. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    by?
     
  9. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    I wonder how big the MX is compared to the camera I use daily (Olympus E-M5 with a JB Grip).
     
  10. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    Wondering how an article regarding how to scan black and white negatives relates to my question.
     
  11. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    it doesn't relate to your question directly, but you posted some images which appear to have been scans of black and white film. I thought that you were not getting as much out of them as you could ... thus that link.

    No matter if you don't find it useful, it didn't cost you much
     
  12. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    Ahh. Yea it depends on the image though, depending on the scanner at the time which would either been a Nikon, Minolta, or my current Canoscan FS4000 all of which were dedicated film scanners. Some were printed then scanned.
     
  13. wlewisiii

    wlewisiii Mu-43 Veteran

    342
    Dec 16, 2011
    Hayward, WI
    William B. Lewis
    I still have my Canon 7, the last of a long string of 35mm rangfinders from Contax, Leica, Russia and Canon, which is why i love my E-P3 as it's very similar.

    Thst said, if i were going to get back into film, it would be MF or LF. m4/3 blows 35mm away for me.

    Im looking for a usable Bronica SQ-Ai kit personally.

    Canon Fd mount had some really nice cameras though... a nice T90 with 50/1.4 would be tempting...
     
  14. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    this is two pictures, one of a G1
    4057199483_ecd835b9a2.
    and an OM-10 (which is phycially similar in dimensions to the MX)
    4057199253_302c0617e6.

    the camera taking the images did not move and the two cameras were placed on exactly the same spot.

    So probably about the same dimensions as an OM-D
     
  15. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    I'd be in the same boat, if I could just choose my format, I would definitely be looking at a Mamiya RB67 or Hasselblad 500CM again. (or maybe even my lost loved Mamiya C3 TLR). But alas, has to be 35mm. Never cared for the Bronica though.

    On the Canon side, I loved both the FTb and the F1. Mainy used a Canon 50 1.4 with it. Never really cared for the AE-1 or any electronic variants that followed.
     
  16. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    I've used quite a few scanners and that method works well across Canon, Nikon, Epson scanners ... all scanners I've ever worked with have had bad algorithms for working with negative.
     
  17. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    Last few years I mainly relied on Vuescan, often using multiple exposure passes. Course if I dig up the negs again I could always take another stab at em.
     
  18. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    understood ... personally I really wanted to like vuescan ... but can't

    Just using (in this case) Nikon scan (but all native TWAIN drivers work similarly) I found the following:

    in my view ...: Negative film scans on Nikon Coolscans

    back in 2009
     
  19. KBeezie

    KBeezie Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 15, 2012
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Karl Blessing
    :p You ever try measuring the white balance off of the 'unexposed' edge of a color negative? Bit more work than someone would want to do fame by frame, but I've found it rather useful when I had to 'import' negatives that weren't that easily mounted, like the rotary kodak disc camera films? Mainly had to shoot it against a perfectly diffused light table with my macro lens and then work the raw from there.

    Oh and in regards to some of the film and paper... I had a habit of 'playing' quite a bit. The store before it finally went under had a huge stash of expired negatives and paper in the basement which I was allowed to help myself to. So did a lot of experimenting.

    This for example was on some Kodak Verichrome Pan 125 that expired in the 70s.

    ethan___cold_by_kb244.

    Or this stuff printed onto Ansco Cykora Y2 Silk Double Weight Fiber Based (Expired 1957)

    man_and_woman___printed_by_kb244.

    Or Kodak Kodalith shot at ISO 6.

    lighthouse_on_a_cold_beach_by_kb244.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2016
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