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Slave Flash

Discussion in 'Lighting Forum' started by Joltinjess, Oct 5, 2013.

  1. Joltinjess

    Joltinjess Mu-43 Regular

    120
    Jan 6, 2013
    Port Moody, BC
    Jesse
    I bought a dedicated flash a while ago and love it. I'm starting to explore off camera flash and was just playing with the slave function. I can see that the pop up flash is triggering the big flash but I'm still just getting the harsh frontal lighting. My question is, If you're using the pop up flash to trigger the slave then how do you not get that direct harsh flash?

    I have an E-PL1 and a Zeikos flash.
     
  2. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Assuming you have the slave flash off to the side, you may have to adjust your flash power levels to get a good balance. Have you tried reducing the pop up flash power to a bare minimum? If the harsh light is coming from the more powerful slave, you could try pointing it diagonally upward to bounce it off the ceiling or diffuse it with some white paper and see if it improves.
     
  3. 0dBm

    0dBm Mu-43 Top Veteran

    859
    Jun 30, 2011
    Western United States
    Try fabricating a snoot from cardboard, attach it to the on-board flash and point it toward the slave. That way, the light from the on board flash doesn't pollute the image.
     
  4. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    Set your pop-up to manual power, 1/64th, bounce it off a business card (if indoors), and run it through tissue paper. At least, that's about the best I can do for a pop-up.

    Ideally I suggest not using the pop-up flash as a trigger (unless you need full RC control with 4/3 wireless flash), but instead use another hotshoe flash as your trigger. Then you can use a nice, proper softbox on it instead of the makeshift crap I described above.

    PS, if using another manual flash as your trigger on the camera, the easiest way is to use a flash bracket so you can safely connect the flash via PC Sync (single contact) instead of the full hotshoe with all the extra contacts you don't want.
     
  5. ThomD

    ThomD Mu-43 Veteran

    424
    Jun 1, 2013
    SF Bay Area
    I suspect that the pre-flash for TTL is triggering the slave. The slave is firing before the shutter is open. I cannot use my Metz with my G2 because of this incompatibility. You need to see if you can turn off pre-flash on the camera.

    My solutions was to buy Cactus radio triggers.
     
  6. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    Yup, what Thom says makes sense. You're getting too much light from the pop-up because it's the only one on time, while the slaves are only giving residual light... if you do indeed have TTL on. Again, set your trigger light to manual power whenever using dumb slaves. That will solve that issue.

    With a Panasonic it can be difficult to turn off that pre-flash but with Olympus it is no problem. Olympus cameras control built-in/clip-on flash with the same sort of settings you will find on an external flash. If you don't want pre-flash just don't use TTL or wireless RC.
     
  7. RobWatson

    RobWatson Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I put some Roscolux filter over the wee flash to block all but NIR (the slaves 'see' that). More in this thread.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Joltinjess

    Joltinjess Mu-43 Regular

    120
    Jan 6, 2013
    Port Moody, BC
    Jesse
    Thanks everyone. I think the biggest problem was that I had the pop up in auto. Turning the flash power down and blocking it from going forward with my hand seems to work pretty well also. Time to play with it now.