Silent vs Anti-Shock shutter settings

[ArizonaMike]

I typically shoot with the silent electronic shutter for a number of reasons. One, I assume it produces less vibration than the mechanical shutter, it is faster and (I think) it does not add to the shutter count on the camera. I do not know about that last item so if that is wrong it would be nice to know.

What I am a bit puzzled about is the anti-shock shutter. I assume that the electronic shutter is, by defintion, also an anti-shock shutter and when I use the anti-shock shutter itself I hear a shutter sound which makes me wonder if the anti-shock shutter is a mechanical shutter modified to produce less vibration than the normal mechanical shutter (my old Canon had that setting). So, a couple of basic questions.

1. Is the anti-shock shutter a mechanical shutter? Or an electronic one?

2. Is the anti-shock shutter any more vibration free than the electronic shutter? Or is the electronic shutter more vibration free? It seems obvious to me that an electronic shutter would provide less vibration than any dampened mechanical shutter but I have learned over my life that much that I believe to be obvious is not, in fact, true.

3. Does the electronic shutter add to the shutter count? How do I determine the shutter count on an Olympus camera?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Growltiger]

1. Bit of each.
2. Electronic (silent) has least vibration.
3. Depends on the camera. The value labelled R is all photos, the value labelled MS is mechanical shutter only. You get either one or the other, depending. The value labelled B is times you pressed the button.

 

[PakkyT]

1. Is the anti-shock shutter a mechanical shutter? Or an electronic one?

@pdk42 explains it nicely in this post...
https://www.mu-43.com/threads/what-...d-other-techniques.107096/page-7#post-1354572

 

[ArizonaMike]

Depends on the camera. The value labelled R is all photos, the value labelled MS is mechanical shutter only. You get either one or the other, depending. The value labe

What is the sequence of keys that you have to enter to get this information?

 

[Growltiger]

What is the sequence of keys that you have to enter to get this information?

Here it is for the E-M1 II, others are same or similar. Many people find it hard to follow the instructions, if it doesn't work keep trying until you get it. The results shown are examples. Your camera will be different.

Check system information
- Camera OFF
- Hold down MENU button and turn ON the camera
- Release MENU button and press MENU again to get to Menus
- Go to LCD Brightness Menu, that's in Spanner Menu, fourth item down.
- Press RIGHT to show screen adjusters.
- Press INFO then OK. (Note this changes the screen.)
- The E-M1 II shows:
-- OLYMPUS
-- E-M1MarkII
-- 03 01 01 01
- Press in sequence UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT/SHUTTER/UP and Page 1 info appears
- Press RIGHT for Page 2, DOWN for Page 3, LEFT for Page 4 and UP again to get Page 1

Page 2 shows:
MS 5181 [mechanical shutter count]
S 00007 [shot count with flash]
C 000000
U 000177 [turn on count which is ultrasonic wave cleaner count]
V 000000
B 000123 [seems to be total number of times shutter button is fully pressed for any reason]
L 000000

Page 3 shows:
CS: the serial number

On Page 4 is D:
Damage code log, blank is good.

 

[Growltiger]

The key sequence for the E-M1 is slightly different - you skip the press of the INFO button.

The key sequence for the Pen-F is the same as for the E-M1 II.

 

[ArizonaMike]

Here it is for the E-M1 II, others are same or similar. Many people find it hard to follow the instructions, if it doesn't work keep trying until you get it. The results shown are examples. Your camera will be different.

Check system information
- Camera OFF
- Hold down MENU button and turn ON the camera
- Release MENU button and press MENU again to get to Menus
- Go to LCD Brightness Menu, that's in Spanner Menu, fourth item down.
- Press RIGHT to show screen adjusters.
- Press INFO then OK. (Note this changes the screen.)
- The E-M1 II shows:
-- OLYMPUS
-- E-M1MarkII
-- 03 01 01 01
- Press in sequence UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT/SHUTTER/UP and Page 1 info appears
- Press RIGHT for Page 2, DOWN for Page 3, LEFT for Page 4 and UP again to get Page 1

Page 2 shows:
MS 5181 [mechanical shutter count]
S 00007 [shot count with flash]
C 000000
U 000177 [turn on count which is ultrasonic wave cleaner count]
V 000000
B 000123 [seems to be total number of times shutter button is fully pressed for any reason]
L 000000

Page 3 shows:
CS: the serial number

On Page 4 is D:
Damage code log, blank is good.

Thanks, that is very helpful.

Is there someplace that has the key presses for all of the Olympus cameras?

 

[Growltiger]

Thanks, that is very helpful.

Is there someplace that has the key presses for all of the Olympus cameras?

Not that I know of. I expect some are documented elsewhere on this forum. You can try searching.
Otherwise I suggest you try the E-M1 sequence for older cameras and the E-M1 II sequence for newer cameras.
(See my post about the E-M1 and Pen-F above).

 

[ArizonaMike]

Here it is for the E-M1 II, others are same or similar. Many people find it hard to follow the instructions, if it doesn't work keep trying until you get it. The results shown are examples. Your camera will be different.

Check system information
- Camera OFF
- Hold down MENU button and turn ON the camera
- Release MENU button and press MENU again to get to Menus
- Go to LCD Brightness Menu, that's in Spanner Menu, fourth item down.
- Press RIGHT to show screen adjusters.
- Press INFO then OK. (Note this changes the screen.)
- The E-M1 II shows:
-- OLYMPUS
-- E-M1MarkII
-- 03 01 01 01
- Press in sequence UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT/SHUTTER/UP and Page 1 info appears
- Press RIGHT for Page 2, DOWN for Page 3, LEFT for Page 4 and UP again to get Page 1

Page 2 shows:
MS 5181 [mechanical shutter count]
S 00007 [shot count with flash]
C 000000
U 000177 [turn on count which is ultrasonic wave cleaner count]
V 000000
B 000123 [seems to be total number of times shutter button is fully pressed for any reason]
L 000000

Page 3 shows:
CS: the serial number

On Page 4 is D:
Damage code log, blank is good.

Did this on my M1.2 and got largely different information. Perhaps it varies by firmware level? Will try this on an M5.3 and see what I get as well.

 

[Growltiger]

Did this on my M1.2 and got largely different information. Perhaps it varies by firmware level? Will try this on an M5.3 and see what I get as well.

Yes, it may have changed, that was with the original firmware. But the instructions are still correct.

 

[ArizonaMike]

Page 2 shows:
MS 5181 [mechanical shutter count]
S 00007 [shot count with flash]
C 000000
U 000177 [turn on count which is ultrasonic wave cleaner count]
V 000000
B 000123 [seems to be total number of times shutter button is fully pressed for any reason]
L 000000

On my M5.3, which just arrived yesterday and has been used only to verify that it is working, I got the following:

MS: 000435
S: 000001
C: 000000
U: 000049
V: 000000
B: 000035
L: 000000

The mechanical shutter on this camera has been used about 5-10 times, a couple of times when I first tested the camera before I set the electronic shutter, a couple of times when I used the ART mode (which apparently will not let me use the eShutter) and once when I tried the HDR mode (which also seems to require the mechanical shutter unless you use the EV Bracketing menu to do HDR (which is what I do on the M1.2). I doubt that I have taken more than 50-60 images with the camera so I don't know where the 435 figure comes from unless this camera was not new when it was sent to me.

S, the shot count with flash, shows 1 but I have never used the flash with this camera and have not enabled it for use. Again, perhaps used before the camera was sent to me.

B, the shutter button pressed count, does seem reasonable for this camera but how does a shutter count of 35 square with a mechanical shutter count of 435? I have not taken any burst shots at all, although the Bracketing shots probably use the High Speed shutter.

Interesting information.

 

[Growltiger]

On my M5.3, which just arrived yesterday and has been used only to verify that it is working, I got the following:

MS: 000435
S: 000001
C: 000000
U: 000049
V: 000000
B: 000035
L: 000000

The mechanical shutter on this camera has been used about 5-10 times, a couple of times when I first tested the camera before I set the electronic shutter, a couple of times when I used the ART mode (which apparently will not let me use the eShutter) and once when I tried the HDR mode (which also seems to require the mechanical shutter unless you use the EV Bracketing menu to do HDR (which is what I do on the M1.2). I doubt that I have taken more than 50-60 images with the camera so I don't know where the 435 figure comes from unless this camera was not new when it was sent to me.

S, the shot count with flash, shows 1 but I have never used the flash with this camera and have not enabled it for use. Again, perhaps used before the camera was sent to me.

B, the shutter button pressed count, does seem reasonable for this camera but how does a shutter count of 35 square with a mechanical shutter count of 435? I have not taken any burst shots at all, although the Bracketing shots probably use the High Speed shutter.

Interesting information.

The numbers never start at zero. They are tested before leaving the factory. That one flash shows they checked the flash works.

 

[ArizonaMike]

The numbers never start at zero. They are tested before leaving the factory. That one flash shows they checked the flash works.

Yes. I thought about that when I saw the numbers, however there are some issues here.

1) 435 does not seem to me to correspond with factory testing,

2) They surely do not test all of the cameras since that would require an enormous number of people. I assume that they test perhaps 1 or 2% which makes the likelihood that the 435 number comes from factory testing less likely, and

3) There is always the possibility that the new camera I received was a return from some other user. I bought from BHPhotoVideo rather than Amazon specifically because I assumed I had a better chance of getting a new camera rather than a return, but now I am not so sure.

The camera seems just fine with no visible marks and was packaged properly with most accessories sealed rather than just packaged so perhaps it is new after all, but I don't understand the high shutter number. Still, it was 435 and not 4350 so perhaps I should be grateful for small favors.

 

[bassman]

I typically shoot with the silent electronic shutter for a number of reasons. One, I assume it produces less vibration than the mechanical shutter, it is faster and (I think) it does not add to the shutter count on the camera. I do not know about that last item so if that is wrong it would be nice to know.

What I am a bit puzzled about is the anti-shock shutter. I assume that the electronic shutter is, by defintion, also an anti-shock shutter and when I use the anti-shock shutter itself I hear a shutter sound which makes me wonder if the anti-shock shutter is a mechanical shutter modified to produce less vibration than the normal mechanical shutter (my old Canon had that setting). So, a couple of basic questions.

1. Is the anti-shock shutter a mechanical shutter? Or an electronic one?

2. Is the anti-shock shutter any more vibration free than the electronic shutter? Or is the electronic shutter more vibration free? It seems obvious to me that an electronic shutter would provide less vibration than any dampened mechanical shutter but I have learned over my life that much that I believe to be obvious is not, in fact, true.

3. Does the electronic shutter add to the shutter count? How do I determine the shutter count on an Olympus camera?

Thanks in advance.

For mirrorless cameras, or DLSRs operating Live View, the shutter is open while you are framing the picture so that the sensor can see the light through the lens. When you release the shutter (in mechanical shutter mode):

1. The shutter closes
2. The shutter opens to start the exposure
3. The shutter closes to end the exposure

The first two especially can create the vibration we call "shutter shock". Olympus cameras have two additional options:

The small diamond setting ("anti shock") eliminates the first two steps, and starts the exposure electronically. It's sometimes referred to as Electronic First Curtain, or EFC. This obviously eliminates most of the related shutter vibration.

The small heart string ("silent shooting") also eliminates the third step, and ends the exposure electronically as well. This eliminates any remaining shutter vibration from the picture. Since it does this by reading the contents of the sensor which takes some time, you can get the rolling shutter effect where straight objects that are moving are distorted, etc. The E-M1.2 and E-M1.3 (and probably the E-M5.3) have very fast read rates, so they often won't have a problem with this mode.

You can still have vibration affect a shot, even with fully electronic shutter:

- You will create vibration by pressing the shutter button
- Wind or an unstable platform the camera is resting on can create vibration

These are why a good IS system is so useful.

 

[Growltiger]

Yes. I thought about that when I saw the numbers, however there are some issues here.

1) 435 does not seem to me to correspond with factory testing,

2) They surely do not test all of the cameras since that would require an enormous number of people. I assume that they test perhaps 1 or 2% which makes the likelihood that the 435 number comes from factory testing less likely, and

3) There is always the possibility that the new camera I received was a return from some other user. I bought from BHPhotoVideo rather than Amazon specifically because I assumed I had a better chance of getting a new camera rather than a return, but now I am not so sure.

The camera seems just fine with no visible marks and was packaged properly with most accessories sealed rather than just packaged so perhaps it is new after all, but I don't understand the high shutter number. Still, it was 435 and not 4350 so perhaps I should be grateful for small favors.

I am sure they test every camera off the production line. It wouldn't take long. That would include high speed continuous mechanical shutter operation, as that is a useful test and takes a lot of shots rapidly. They may even have a robotic testing station.

 

[ArizonaMike]

They may even have a robotic testing station.

Perhaps. I am just not going to worry about it.

The camera appears to be new, the LCD screen hinge has the kind of resistance you might expect in something that has never been opened before and the packaging looked like a factory packing job. Given the ability to return items one can never be certain but this seems like a new camera regardless of the shutter count.

Add to that the fact that my wife, who may also be using this camera, likes it and I guess I am good to go. I better be because I just ordered a Panasonic 12-32 for it to use as a walk-around lens.

 

[Growltiger]

Good choice - that is a lovely and tiny lens.

 

[ArizonaMike]

Good choice - that is a lovely and tiny lens.

Interestingly enough I have found that I prefer the smaller and lighter lenses even though I know I am giving up the ability to get clean photos in low light. I have the Olympus 12-40 F4 lens and it is a good lens, but I found that I preferred the 12-50. The 12-40 is a much better lens optically and allows my M1.2 to perform special functionality (like in-camera focus-stacking) but the 12-50 is much lighter, has a slightly higher zoom, has a pseudo-macro setting and I don't use all of that in-camera special functionality. I do all of that in post and prefer doing that since I have more control over the final result.

I have been using the 17mm f1.8 and the 14-42 EZ lens to test the M5.3 and both are nice, but I wanted something wider than 14mm but still a zoom. My 12-50 fits the bill but when put on the M5.3 it feels so large and long that I decided I should try the 12-32 in its place. It seems to have a decent reputation and mostly my needs are for general, family and travel photography so I think it should seve me well. On a chance I ordered a used one from UPP and will see how that works out.

 

[Growltiger]

My wife has my old E-M1 and we got the 12-50 for it, (as I kept its 12-40 f/2.8 for the E-M1 II), and she wanted something light. Although she got some good photos with it, I found I needed a lot of post processing particularly at the longer focal lengths. She became increasingly frustrated with it so we got her the Oly 14-150 II, which although larger is very lightweight, and is a much better lens.

In the meantime I got the 12-100 which is bigger and heavier but a very general good lens for the E-M1 II.

We also needed a small lightweight camera to have with us much of the time, and as a backup, so we got the Pen-F. After much thought I got the Panasonic 12-32. It is so small it fits in a traditional leather camera case I have for the Pen-F. I have been happy with it and have got many good photos with it. You may have seen the panorama I took with it, I posted it somewhere here recently.

In summary, I think you will be very happy with the 12-32 on the M5.3.

 

[Jon Li]

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