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Significant lag between shutter release and actual firing w/ FL600r in TTL-A on E-M1?

Discussion in 'Lighting Forum' started by TRCPhoto, Dec 22, 2014.

  1. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ
    I was shooting an event last night and I was getting a significant lag between pulling the trigger and when the E-M1 would actually fire when in TTL-A. So much so that I stopped to check if I'd accidentally slipped into a 2 second timer mode or something. Same flash unit on my E-M5 fired immediately as expected in TTL-A... I've scrolled through the menus and everything seems to be matching between the two body's settings. Any idea what I'm missing?
     
  2. OlyPannyMan

    OlyPannyMan Mu-43 Rookie

    16
    Dec 21, 2014
    AF-green light, beep? Flash fully recycled when you pull trigger?
     
  3. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ
    Yes on both. Same flash on E-M5 fires instantly in TTL-A.
     
  4. OlyPannyMan

    OlyPannyMan Mu-43 Rookie

    16
    Dec 21, 2014
    • Like Like x 1
  5. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ
  6. inkista

    inkista Mu-43 Veteran

    332
    Jan 13, 2012
    San Diego, CA
    Are you in 2nd curtain, maybe?
     
  7. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    Did you try switching flashes between the bodies?

    --Ken
     
  8. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    pellicle
    on the Panasonic bodies there is a menu selection to allow shutter release before focus is complete ... so you can make that no lag ... should be with your body too.

    Which would mean you'd get a blurry and perhaps under exposed shot, but still it would be without lag. However (unless I'm missing something) if you want all that automation do do something for you then you have to wait for it to work itself out.

    I like to use Auto-Flashes (pre TTL flash) where all I do is set the aperture to match what the flash is set to ... then when I press the button it just goes off.

    http://cjeastwd.blogspot.com/2008/09/metz-on-my-coolpix-newer-isnt-always.html

    costs a fraction of an A-TTL flash and has more punch too (when doing bounce flash this is handy).
     
  9. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ
    I don't think so. Honestly not sure how I'd engage second curtain, but I assume it's a function of the flash and not the body. Plus that would merely cause the flash to fire on the backend of the exposure, right? This is a delay similar to the self timer being engaged (it's not) in that I press the shutter release and can count one one thousand, two one thousand, and then the shutter and flash engage to capture the image... if it's still there.
     
  10. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ

    Hi Ken, yes same flash works as it should on my E-M5 body but the delay is when in use with the E-M1
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ
    Thanks, but again the same unit on the E-M5 flashes instantaneously in TTL-A. Only on the E-M1 that I'm there holding the shutter down for 2 seconds before it takes the picture.
     
  12. OlyPannyMan

    OlyPannyMan Mu-43 Rookie

    16
    Dec 21, 2014
    Background: When I was having problems with the E30 I was shooting lots of macro photos. The subject might be six inches from the focal plane---and I was using flash. Because it was macro, if the wind blew, the difference between focus and out of focus might be only a couple mm, so the camera couldn't lock on to focus for long and it wouldn't let me take the photo. Or, if the flash weren't at 100% the camera wouldn't fire.

    My strategy was that I was willing to accept a lot of bad shots to get a few good ones. I ended up going to manual focus, then moving the camera rather than twisting the focus ring, and shooting as many as I could. I ended up sorting them out later.

    This is where my original two questions came from because I think in low light you might encounter the same problem. 1) Maybe the camera isn't getting a good fix on the focus. Or, 2) after you've taken a lot of photos and your battery power is waning, the recycle might cause the camera to refuse to fire till it's ready.

    From the Olympus site:
    Is there a way to shoot if I don't want to wait for the autofocus to lock or the flash to recycle?

    Normally, the camera will not shoot while autofocus is operating or the flash is charging. However, situations may arise where the photographer would want to override the camera and force it to fire under marginal shooting conditions when the camera may not be ready to shoot.

    The Shutter Release Priority function will permit the camera to shoot even though normal shooting requirements are not met. The function is found in the menu under RELEASE (Custom Menu C). Two options are available:

    RLS PRORITY S: Set to ON to enable the camera to fire immediately, without waiting for focus confirmation, in the S+AF autofocus mode.
    RLS PRIORITY C: Set to OFF to force the camera to secure focus before firing in the C+AF autofocus mode.
    Be advised that overriding the camera creates special considerations. Shooting before the flash has recycled may cause images to be underexposed if ambient light is insufficient to illuminate the subject. Shooting before autofocus has locked may result in blurry images, particularly when the subject is in motion. To compensate for the loss of autofocus, increase the depth of field by shooting with the smallest aperture that is practical for acquiring the shot.

    ETA: Do the OM-Ds have any sort of anti-shock? I realize they don't have mirrors like my E30 but I wonder if they have a delay to reduce vibration, say, if you're tripping the shutter while it's on a tripod and it's a long exposure situation.
     
  13. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    Since you have isolated the problem to the E-M1, you could do a reset and see if that resolevs the problem.

    --Ken
     
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  14. TRCPhoto

    TRCPhoto Mu-43 Regular

    82
    Dec 13, 2014
    Princeton, NJ
    Genius! I really have no idea what I did and honestly feel like I only changed settings to mimic the E-M5, but low and behold resetting the E-M1 did the trick.

    I don't believe so. Since there is no mirror, or motor for the mirror, there is no need to reduce any vibration. The ISIS takes care of most shake and the only thing I could imagine regarding a long exposure is if using a lens that has internal IS that would counter act the Oly's... I only have one Lumix lens and I keep the IS turned off.
     
  15. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    Glad to hear that the reset worked. But, too bad we will not be able to fidn out what setting had changed to cause the problem in the first place. some days I do wish we had an Undo button on our cameras when settings get accidentially changed.

    Regarding Anti-shock, the E-M1 does have a setting to control shutter shock. It introduces a slight delay, and the E-M1's firmware update added the 0s delay which other models did not have at the time of introduction It is actually a few milliseconds, but it seems to help in many situations.

    Good luck,

    --Ken
     
  16. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    There's an E-M1 settings spreadsheet linked on Biofos.com to help keep track of your changes/settings.

    Barry
     
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