Shutter Shock with E-M10

Shooting the equivalent of 80mm @ 1/60th could also be a problem. I do see the difference though!

 

Oh, I though he may have died from shock...

 

So far I've kept out of discussions on shutter shock, but this image may be of interest:



This shows 14-150 shutter shock with the E-M5. Left hand picture is at 1/100 sec, right hand at 1/25 sec. Note that scope timebase was changed to make each capture about the same length on the screen. Each vertical square is about 30 pixels.

Clearly, there will be significant image degradation at 1/100 sec, less so at 1/25. If you go to 1/400 or faster, shutter shock is less noticeable. FWIW, the E-M5 anti-shock setting didn't seem to make much difference. But it looks as if the zero-shock feature on the later cameras does work pretty well.

I have tested other lenses. In general, the primes fare quite well, certainly better than the larger zooms. The P 12-32 is quite good also.

 

Thanks for the fascinating scope experiment. It took me a while to understand that while the vertical trace wobble is the same amplitude for both traces, it occupies a smaller portion of the right trace. So image degradation should be lower at that shutter speed.

I just tried my E-PL2 + 40-150mm with my Tektronix 454B scope. I couldn't see any trace wobble. That puzzles me because occasionally I have noticed double images in the vertical direction. I assumed it was shutter shock. Perhaps it was a misbehaving IBIS, which I leave on all the time. I'll try again with a wider range of settings.

Why does the lens choice alter the effects of shutter shock? Is it due to the shutter impulse moving glass elements in some lenses and not others? Or is it due to the way different lens masses affect the impulse propagating through the coupled system?

Thanks again for the revealing experiment.

Brian

 

The latest firmware definitely helped by introducing the 0 setting. An experimenter over at DPReview showed using an Oscilloscope that setting Release Lag Time to short added to sharpness.

Confusing with shutter shock is another effect that I've seen occasionally with bright edges where a fuzzieness appears.
I remember similar effects with the Sony A55 being blamed on the SLT's see through mirror but I'm not sure what's happening with my EM10 as the last shot to show the effect was at 1/400 sec ie faster than 1/320 so standard shutter..
It doesn't happen often and only in very bright conditions but it's something I hadn't expected.

 

Focal length was 33mm for all the above captures. I also did some tests at 150mm and at 14mm, and the 'wobbles' were of the same order. However, I will say that when taking actual photos I get more unexpected blurring at the longer focal lengths, so possibly more tests would show this.

The main reason I set up these experiments was to satisfy myself that shutter shock is real. As Dennis mentioned, there is a long thread on DPR that describes the scope technique. (And, I might add, done with more care and patience than I was able to muster!)

I am convinced that some lenses are more susceptible than others. Just for interest, here are my results with the P12-32:



Shutter speed was 1/25 in all cases. And each vertical division is about 25 pixels.

Seems better than the 14-150, and in real life I've never seen the unexpected blurring that happens from time to time on the 14-150 and other lenses.

One final commment: none of the 'wobbles' shown in these captures would have caused the double-image effect. For that, you would need to see a step in the trace, as the image moves from one position on the sensor to another. All the 'wobbles' would do is cause blurring, as evident from the OP's dead wasp shots.

I'm not saying that a step can't happen, just that it didn't occur during my tests,

 

Mr naive here. I have an EM10 and wonder why, when all viewfinder viewing is from the sensor, why there is a shutter at all. Can't the software control the "shutter speed" of capture without a mechanical shutter? My phone camera doesn't have a mechanical shutter as far as I know. Apologies if this basic question is off topic.

 

Many cameras can and do indeed have the option use an electronic shutter like a cell phone (e.g. GX7, GM1). Most of theses sensors cannot instantly capture the whole scene, however, and what you end up with is various problems like rolling shutter for fast movement, or flicker problems with artificial lighting.

 

Thanks guys,

I have really appreciated this thread. Before this I did not understand the subject but now feel as though i do have some grasp of the subject.

I did have trouble looking for around 20 minutes finding the Sequential Shooting and select Single Zero Shock (with the diamond) but I put that down to my own inexperience. Anybody else struggling its shooting menu 2, top of the shop where you choose timer or continuous shooting and the very bottom option on page 2 marked as a single square with the diamond next to it.

Is this setting detrimental in any way to leave it in all the time, or should i only use it when i need the slower speeds?

Thank you again.

Phil

 

The E-M10 has shutter shock issues? I've never seen it, but then again I'm not looking for it!

 

Hi Jonathan F/2,

I agree as I did not notice it either, possibly happy in my ignorance?

There is no getting away from the images as even I can see the difference. Before I would have been happy with the fuzzier images thinking it was the limitations of my kit lens but now I'm seeing a way I can possibly improve the sharpness without spending more money. It’s got to be worth trying.

Phil

 

I made a post about my shutter shock issues with the E-M10.
https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=63469

It happens with 100-150 mm focal length, and it disappear when using the "0s antishock" but only for shutter speeds longer than 1/320s.
What's funny is that at 150 mm, 1/400s pictures are blurry, and 1/320s pictures are sharp, because the antishock only works from 1/320s...

I never had any problems on focal lenghts wider than 45 mm.

 

That's really funny because when I shoot with long lenses I always set it to 1/320th as my max shutter speed. Maybe that's why I don't see shutter shock issues.

Then again shutter shock issues and crappy IBIS on my E-PM2 makes my E-M10 look way more stable in comparison.

 

Hi Since, we often mention in this thread the Oly14-150, IBIS and 0-Sec Antishock... here's my experience with the PL7 (3-Axis Stabilization like the EM10)... handheld... 150mm

http://www.systemkamera-forum.de/topic/109766-pl7-und-die-1160-sekunde-mit-oly14-150/

At least in this particular test I had repeatedly problems (Shutter Shock I would guess) at 1/160.. from 9 shoots only 2 were sharp. Although my 'posted table' is in German, it's simple to understand: Only when I say 'OK' then the picture was really sharp... 'fast OK' means 'almost OK'... 'grenzwertig' means slightly worse than 'almost OK'... and 'Ausschuss' means for me 'unusable/blurred'...

PL7, Oly14-150mm@150mm, IBIS auto, 0-Sek Antishock, je 3 Aufnahmen
1/30: 1x fast OK (Jammern auf hohem Niveau), 1x grenzwertig, 1x Ausschuss
1/40: 1x OK, 2x Ausschuss
1/50: 1x OK, 2x fast OK (Jammern auf hohem Niveau)
1/60: 1x OK, 1x fast OK (Jammern auf hohem Niveau), 1x grenzwertig
1/80: 1x OK, 1x fast OK (Jammern auf hohem Niveau), 1x etwas grenzwertig
1/100: 3x OK
1/125: 3x OK
1/160: 1x OK, 2x Ausschuss, Wiederholung mit weiteren 6 Aufnahmen: 1x OK, 5x nicht überzeugend
1/200: 3x OK
1/250: 3x OK