From what I've been reading, it seems zoom lenses are more vulnerable to it?
Some people are also reporting that shorter lag times on the shutter setting might help but that might just be wishful thinking.
It's this latter point that set me doing controlled testing - that way I could see if "short lag" or "ant shock delay" would ameliorate it. However, I can't reliably replicate it.
I don't believe it's ibis, it's the shutter mechanism itself.i have the same problem on my epl5 and its the sole reason i havent bought the ep5. might i suggest two things: first theres an antishock or some such thing setting that i believe i have set to 1/8th of a second; second, the truth is for most shots across the normal FL setting at shutter speeds equal to or greater than the FL, one doesnt need IS at all, just reasonably good technique. yes that means the IS feature doesnt work correctly, but no offense to anyone, that should allow us all to rely on ourselves to be better at what we like to do vs ignoring time honored technique in favor of relying on the tool.
certainly at long FL, like 180+, theres only so much that can be done with technique, though it still does play a role. but if one is a birder etc, my suggestion is to either buy another camera or buy lenses with IS and turn off the cams IS.
That lens is supposed to be more prone to shutter shock. Not a big deal when using the GM1's electronic shutter, of course.
I don't believe it's ibis, it's the shutter mechanism itself.
my personal experience was adjusting the antishock setting while leaving on ibis did not correct the issue. however, when i turned off ibis, which is now my 99% setting, i never saw the problem again. we can debate this but in the end i guess what we see is somewhat subjective and so ultimately not definitive. what is definitive, and was my main point, is that ibis is not necessary in many if not the overwhelming amount of situations. it is certainly not necessary with the OT lens under any kind of normal lighting and not at the OT shutter speed. as photographers we should be more concerned with understanding FL/shutter speed relationship to 'shaky' pix, and more concerned with learning proper technique. knowing both empowers the photographer, enables him to properly handle many situations, and will obviate the need for ibis much of the time.
You see a double effect that's a bit different than camera shake blur which looks more linear. Its generally on shutter speeds that are in the range of 1/60-1/250.