gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
Alabama Hills?
I like the two different tones for the rocky ridges: warm tones against cold hues.
SHOW: Before and After Shots
- Thread starter DoofClenas
- Start date
I like the two different tones for the rocky ridges: warm tones against cold hues.
gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
I went back to a creek I spotted a few weeks ago and I didn't have a short lens with me.
Luckily the light was flat so I could get a good base image to work with.
noedit_JX080004 by gnarlydog, on Flickr
The goal was to have a strong reflection and bring the bike forward, but still "tell a story" of sort.
I spent some time getting the angle right, the ratio of bike and background and perspective by trying 3 different lenses ( I don't work well with zooms). I shot in manual focus because the camera would hunt for the "correct spot). Exposure was in "A" but slightly overexposure compensated (brighter images edit better)
Inspired by lightrider I edited the image in Photoshop.
All up probably 30 different layers, several of them tone-mapped for a different part of the image.
I masked out what I didn't like on a layer and added what I wanted from another. The bike has way more "treatment" than the rest of the image.
Slowly slowly I am learning how to create the mood that I desire, often by "painting" the image with tiny strokes of the mouse
creek mirrored_1 by gnarlydog, on Flickr
Luckily the light was flat so I could get a good base image to work with.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
The goal was to have a strong reflection and bring the bike forward, but still "tell a story" of sort.
I spent some time getting the angle right, the ratio of bike and background and perspective by trying 3 different lenses ( I don't work well with zooms). I shot in manual focus because the camera would hunt for the "correct spot). Exposure was in "A" but slightly overexposure compensated (brighter images edit better)
Inspired by lightrider I edited the image in Photoshop.
All up probably 30 different layers, several of them tone-mapped for a different part of the image.
I masked out what I didn't like on a layer and added what I wanted from another. The bike has way more "treatment" than the rest of the image.
Slowly slowly I am learning how to create the mood that I desire, often by "painting" the image with tiny strokes of the mouse
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Mountain_Man_79
Enjoying Cameraderie
Thanks, and yup, that‘s the Alabama Hills.
gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
I wanted to try some urban images of my riding buddies and needed to blur the background to isolate them a bit.
I used a C-mount adapted lens: Cosmicar 50mm f1.4, wide open.
The challenge was the fading light and the bokeh. Wide open that lens has very soft edges
The blue cast of open shadow was eventually corrected but the colors were still not better than a monochrome version.
Edited with many layers of locally enhanced contrast, hues, and ultimately light-brushed I settled for a slightly toned one
Benji on XSR by gnarlydog, on Flickr
I used a C-mount adapted lens: Cosmicar 50mm f1.4, wide open.
The challenge was the fading light and the bokeh. Wide open that lens has very soft edges
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
The blue cast of open shadow was eventually corrected but the colors were still not better than a monochrome version.
Edited with many layers of locally enhanced contrast, hues, and ultimately light-brushed I settled for a slightly toned one
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
On an evening ride the light after sunset was low enough that would allow me to do some motion-blurred panned images.
I used a manual focus lens (to make sure the camera would not be hunting and miss the shot) and pre-focused on a specific spot on the road.
After my friend did a few passes I found the "happy medium" where background blur was right but rider was still sharp enough.
I got this
My goal was to create an evening shot where the motorcycle would be riding through some light fog.
I duplicated the layer (Photoshop) and toned the image much darker and colder, enhanced the sharpness on the rider, vignetted the edges to bring focus to the center, and on the last layer created a warm beam coming from the headlight. I painted some "fog" (uneven brightness) on the beam to give that illusion.
dusk ride by gnarlydog, on Flickr
I used a manual focus lens (to make sure the camera would not be hunting and miss the shot) and pre-focused on a specific spot on the road.
After my friend did a few passes I found the "happy medium" where background blur was right but rider was still sharp enough.
I got this
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
My goal was to create an evening shot where the motorcycle would be riding through some light fog.
I duplicated the layer (Photoshop) and toned the image much darker and colder, enhanced the sharpness on the rider, vignetted the edges to bring focus to the center, and on the last layer created a warm beam coming from the headlight. I painted some "fog" (uneven brightness) on the beam to give that illusion.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
stagor
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
Brownie
Thread Killer Extraordinaire
I had forgotten all about downloading Luminar 3 when they made it available for free. I recall opening it, thinking it'd take some time and being focused as I was at the time on Darktable promptly forgot all about it. The other day someone posted a sunray thingy (technical term credited to @Mountain_Man_79 ). Oh yeah, I remember now...
The first victim. Maybe a bit extreme but it's a new toy. This was a great candidate for the sunrays since there was already bright sunlight in the corner of the shot and light hitting the trees. Just had to adjust so it all fit together.
woods orig by telecast, on Flickr
woods by telecast, on Flickr
Probably should've cropped the right side a bit to lose the sunlight on the tree trunk. If anyone asks it's from the other sun...
The first victim. Maybe a bit extreme but it's a new toy. This was a great candidate for the sunrays since there was already bright sunlight in the corner of the shot and light hitting the trees. Just had to adjust so it all fit together.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Probably should've cropped the right side a bit to lose the sunlight on the tree trunk. If anyone asks it's from the other sun...
Mountain_Man_79
Enjoying Cameraderie
I always said I wasn’t one to go for fake sky replacements...but I think it made my otherwise bland shot better. Not bad Luminar.
So yes, I’m impressed with Luminar even though I’ve moved entirely to DxO. However, I’m more impressed with the E-M1X; this shot was handheld (all 8 seconds!) and also used the electronic ND filter.
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Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
So yes, I’m impressed with Luminar even though I’ve moved entirely to DxO. However, I’m more impressed with the E-M1X; this shot was handheld (all 8 seconds!) and also used the electronic ND filter.
gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
I wanted a sunset shot with my friend's motorcycle. At an urban park there was enough sky for a shot without houses but the blue hour was a bit weak that evening.
I tried several exposures to get the sky colorful enough and a brighter one for the motorcycle being black.
In the end I just tried to edit a single frame instead of doing a composite.
JX190157 by gnarlydog, on Flickr
I added a fair bit of color for the sky, blurred it to give more separation in the foreground and added a beam from the headlight.
My friend was pleased with the results.
David on Speed Triple_b2_JX190157 by gnarlydog, on Flickr
I tried several exposures to get the sky colorful enough and a brighter one for the motorcycle being black.
In the end I just tried to edit a single frame instead of doing a composite.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
I added a fair bit of color for the sky, blurred it to give more separation in the foreground and added a beam from the headlight.
My friend was pleased with the results.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
BosseBe
Mu-43 Legend
Gargoyles really needs ominous skies!
stagor
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
I revisited the creek (now flowing again after the rains) with a different lens, but the same subject.
I slightly underexposed to have better highlights.
P3210028 by gnarlydog, on Flickr
And then created an image similar to the style I have seen on YouTube.
foggy creek by gnarlydog, on Flickr
There is no single "filter" or "treatment" that exists for this style, but I used many layers of masking and "light painting" with brushes in Photoshop.
I slightly underexposed to have better highlights.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
And then created an image similar to the style I have seen on YouTube.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
There is no single "filter" or "treatment" that exists for this style, but I used many layers of masking and "light painting" with brushes in Photoshop.
Last edited:
gnarlydog australia
Mu-43 Hall of Famer
Apologies for this image NOT being shot on a Micro 4/3 camera (but on a Nikon Z5).
I find the dynamic range from a "fool frame" to be a bit wider than on my 16MP 4/3 sensor...
The "before shot"
DVZ_2374 by gnarlydog, on Flickr
and here after a bit of editing in Photoshop
Scoot and Putt by gnarlydog, on Flickr
I find the dynamic range from a "fool frame" to be a bit wider than on my 16MP 4/3 sensor...
The "before shot"
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and here after a bit of editing in Photoshop
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Let my 5yr old daughter take my picture on a recent trip to see family.
Before SOOC
The .rw2 was doing some very funky stuff in darktable so I sent it through dxo pureraw and i was able to work with it at that point. General exposure was pushed up 3.5 stops, and then another half stop on my face/body. Some color and tone work and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm actually shocked how much further you can push a pureraw dng. The .rw2 fell apart pretty quickly on darktable, photolab 5 (trial), and on1(trial).
Before SOOC
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
The .rw2 was doing some very funky stuff in darktable so I sent it through dxo pureraw and i was able to work with it at that point. General exposure was pushed up 3.5 stops, and then another half stop on my face/body. Some color and tone work and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm actually shocked how much further you can push a pureraw dng. The .rw2 fell apart pretty quickly on darktable, photolab 5 (trial), and on1(trial).
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Brownie
Thread Killer Extraordinaire
Did you check to see if the base curve was applied? That looks exactly like the curve was disabled.
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