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settings advice?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by elj4176, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. elj4176

    elj4176 Mu-43 Regular

    70
    Mar 23, 2012
    I'm headed to Norway and Iceland for a vacation and I want to make sure I am not botching the settings on the e-M5 for the shots I will be taking. Landscapes and waterfalls mostly. I have read several tutorials on waterfall photography but none have been specific to m4/3 cameras.

    This is what I'm thinking:

    Shoot @ F8 (or less) - not F22 as some sites suggest.
    Use tripod
    ND9 (for waterfalls) and CPL filters
    turn off IBIS when using tripod
    -.3 ev (not sure about this one)
    raw + jpeg
    use remote trigger

    Another reason I am asking here is because I previously took some waterfall shots with my E-P3 and used the info above and they came out okay but the water in some of them looked too white while the rest of the pics were exposed okay.

    Any tips or suggestions are welcome. This is not a photography specific trip but I do have some latitude to take some shots.
     
  2. DeeJayK

    DeeJayK Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 8, 2011
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Keith
    Those settings look like a reasonable starting point if you're going for the blurred out, flowing water look as I presume you are. I'd suggest shooting in shutter priority and setting your shutter speed to 1 or 2 seconds and letting your camera choose the aperture.

    I'd throw out the advice to use -0.3ev and instead bracket your shots. I'd also make sure that my ISO was set as low as possible.

    That said, every shot of a waterfall doesn't have to use the same technique. I'd try shooting some with a faster shutter (without the ND filter) to freeze the water. Also, try shooting from a bunch of different angles and locations.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. elj4176

    elj4176 Mu-43 Regular

    70
    Mar 23, 2012
    I had briefly tried to use bracketing on the e-p3 but couldn't seem to get it to work.

    If I want 5 shots 3 ev apart:
    shooting menu 2:
    set Hi seq or L seq (or doesn't H or L matter?) - can be accessed on SCP
    set AE BKT 5f .3EV
    then shoot the pic holding the shutter down until I hear 5 clicks?

    Is there an easier/faster way to do bracketing then using the menus?
     
  4. FlyPenFly

    FlyPenFly Mu-43 Veteran

    448
    Feb 15, 2011
    You might need 2 powerful ND filters and a circular polarizer if you want to do a really extended exposure in broad daylight.

    If you don't want to blow your highlights, you have to slightly under-expose, check your histogram after each shot.
     
  5. DeeJayK

    DeeJayK Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 8, 2011
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Keith
    That seems like the correct settings (at least that's pretty similar with the way bracketing is set up on my E-PL1). I'm not aware of any quicker way to set it besides the menus. Maybe you can consider using a MYSET for waterfall pictures.

    I guess my larger point is that any "recipe" for getting this type of shot that you have going in is just going to be a starting point. The biggest variable is the amount of light on the scene. You can control this to some degree by shooting in the "magic" hours around sunrise and sunset.
     
  6. dre_tech

    dre_tech Mu-43 Veteran

    314
    Jan 31, 2012
    I would do AEB (AE BKT) at larger intervals, like 1EV. At 0.3EV between shots it doesn't do anything you can't get from RAW anyway. You can also manually bracket the exposure, try faster and slower exposures. This shot was part of a bracketed series, initially to combine in HDR, but in the end I just raised the shadows a little and I was happy with the natural look. Some of the shots were up to 5 seconds, but I preferred this relatively short one.

    You hold the remote shutter pressed until you all the exposures occur. I believe it'll stop after your sequence is done. It does that on most cameras when in AEB (AE BKT).

    Is your ND filter 9-stop? Or 0.9ND (3-stop)?

    With 8-13 stop ND you will not need multiple filters for this kind of exposure. If you want bulb exposures of minutes, of course.

    What will the circular polarizer do extra that 10 or 13 stop ND doesn't already do?

    Nice generalization about how to compensate for blown highlights... but it's good to pay attention to the histogram. I'd usually change my metering mode to adapt to the type of shot, but to each his own.
     
  7. elj4176

    elj4176 Mu-43 Regular

    70
    Mar 23, 2012
    That makes sense on the larger variance for the bracketing.

    I have an 8x ND and a 6x ND.

    Thanks for the tips. I think I have a good starting point and will adjust as I go. It will be light out most of the time so I'm not sure I'll get too many chances to shoot at the optimum times.
     
  8. DeeJayK

    DeeJayK Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 8, 2011
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Keith
    Oh yeah, I didn't consider the whole "midnight sun" aspect given your destination. :redface: