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Setting up GM1 as a Point and Shoot?

Discussion in 'Panasonic Cameras' started by SkiHound, Nov 8, 2015.

  1. SkiHound

    SkiHound Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 28, 2012
    I have a used GM1 coming tomorrow. Basically a replacement for an LX5 which I've killed. One of my uses will be as a high end point and shoot. I will learn the camera but I'm curious about setting it up as a point and shoot. In the short term, one of my uses will be skiing. I don't have good reading vision without correction and, since my distance vision is quite good, I generally don't have correction when skiing. I'd also be pulling gloves off, often in pretty cold conditions. So for this kind of application I'm really looking to optimize the camera as a high end point and shoot. Any suggestions for settings? Any other tips for this kind of use would be much appreciated.
  2. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Are you planning on shooting raw or jpeg? Different set-ups for each.

  3. SkiHound

    SkiHound Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 28, 2012
    With my Oly bodies I shoot raw. We're doing a big trip and will be traveling and my preference would be raw + jpeg. That said, my primary use here is for stuff like documenting a ski trip and if I could get get good jpeg output I could be happy with that. Really curious how well the intelligent auto mode works. The other thing is I read the 4 way dial is very easy to press inadvertently and things like pulling it out of my pocket to take a few shots on a ski trail, I'd like to take myself out of the equation as much as possible.
  4. budeny

    budeny Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 4, 2014
    Boulder, CO
    When I used GM1 for ski trips (alpine) it was always in A mode, f5.6, center point focus. "iA" mode would probably work well too.
    I would also suggest to get some autocap for 12-32mm lens and attach camera to your ski jacket by thin bungee cord.
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2015
  5. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    If I was setting up to shoot both raw+jpeg, I would probably tune my jpeg files to render to my tastes. Most bodies today are not too bad out of the box, but a little tweaking might make the difference. I had a G3 that produced nice raw files, but the standard jpeg files often needed a bit of fine tuning, especially around WB.

    I was going to recommend P mode after jpeg tuning, but I do not know how reliable the metering is on the GM1 in snowy conditions, so it may take a bit of trial and error to get the camera set up the way you want. You may be able to disable (or unassign) some function buttons to minimize accidental changes, but this issue is just the nature of the beast. A wrap might be a good way to protect the camera without having it change functions when you wish to shoot (no pulling it out and snagging controls), but wrapping it back up afterwards might be hard. You could also preset your controls and just set them every time you pull out the camera, but that may be just as much of a hassle.

    I suspect that a bit of experimentation may be in order as everybody reacts differently to the various "issues" of tiny cameras that need to be addressed when shooting. I had an E-PL5 that I never really bonded with, but am now playing around with a GF7 body that seems a bit more friendly as a pocket camera. They are not that different, but sometimes its the small details that matter.

    Good luck,

  6. tkbslc

    tkbslc Super Moderator

    It has an intelligent Auto dial setting for just such usage. It will work as well as the LX5 did in iA, but with bigger sensor image quality.

    If you find it is underexposing on snow (typical as there is so much white) then P mode with +2/3 or +1 Exposure Compensation would do well.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  7. TwoWheels

    TwoWheels Mu-43 Top Veteran

    May 28, 2014
    British Columbia
    I haven't used it skiing, but I have had good success with iA mode when I've used it. Having said that, I would probably go with @budeny@budeny's aperture priority suggestions while keeping a close eye on shutter speed if it's cloudy or foggy. +1 on the auto cap as well.
  8. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    I'd use P mode, no need to force a specific aperture that can steal one stop of ISO or shutter speed for no reason. And Auto-ISO of course.
    Also the less I expect to tweak the camera settings the more I want to have the RAW to fix it later.
    As said, shooting on snow under the sun will throw the exposure down. One more reason to get RAW files too. Maybe there is some dedicated Scene mode for snow.
    Maybe you can configure the camera to control the zoom with the back buttons, but I do not know if this way can be better of worse with the gloves.
    Bring a small cloth to dry it, just in case.
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. SkiHound

    SkiHound Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 28, 2012
    Well it's here. Battery is on the charger. Even smaller than I had imagined. I definitely need one of the autocaps. With the LX5 I mostly used program mode. My biggest concern is that I'm going to move settings that I don't even realize. I've done that with the LX5. Yes, my reading vision really is that bad. I stuck the lens on my E-M10 and took a few test shots. I think I'm really going to like the lens. I think either aperture priority with an iso that gives a reasonable range of shutter speeds, or program mode is probably the way to go. I'll need to do some playing.
  10. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    I'd definitely go A or S mode, and set auto ISO to around 3200. S mode is interesting because you can use it to set a minimum shutter speed to avoid shake-induced blur, and when you keep things below 1/500 you can avoid rolling shutter artifacts.
  11. ivoire

    ivoire Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 6, 2011
    Naperville, IL
    The 15mm body cap lens will give you a very pocketable PnS setup. Choose a high enuff auto iso and then just set your shutter speed
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