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Sensor Damage/Problem/Fatigue with long exp. on EPL2

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Chrisnmn, Jun 5, 2012.

  1. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Hey guys,

    Ive been carrying around my EPL2 a lot more than my FF gear. but this is not another FF vs m43 thread, I just want to say, that last weekend we went visiting some friends outside of town and decided not to take my FF gear with me just the m43 which is my EPL2+VF2+P14mm and spare batteries. being in love with that for the past few months, taking street shots and some other stuff decided that this could be my definitive travel/all around gear. why not.

    But this time and great part of what i like shooting is landscape, and as you probably know that involves long exposures sometimes. so thats what i did, but at the end of the day i really got a bitter taste in my mouth with the shots i got. And made me think that m43 or at least my EPL2 is definitely not as capable as my 5DMKII yet!.

    I know that all Pens share almost the same exact sensor, so this might apply to a bunch of you using different models than mine (EPL2).

    <IMG SRC="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1030775/epl2/_6021835.jpg" HEIGHT="800" WIDTH="1067" BORDER="0">

    right click and open image in a new tab to see maximum size!

    So heres the shot, to show what to me seems to be a problem. This is one of the shots i took that afternoon, (not the best of the lot, but definitely the best to show my problem) according to my raw file information this was shot at f22, 16 seconds, ISO200, once again this was shot with the P14mm which first thing i noticed is that at f22 is soft instead of sharp. But if you see closely you'll be able to see some little white dots all around the image, never thought it was dust on the sensor, because i didnt got those dots on other shots of the day, and i dont have any lens other than the 14mm at the moment so i havent changed a lens, could be salt or some bright rocks or something in the sand?, not likely, since i can see them well spread all across the image.

    check this screenshots.

    <IMG SRC="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1030775/epl2/3.png" HEIGHT="527" WIDTH="875" BORDER="0">

    right click and open image in a new tab to see maximum size!

    <IMG SRC="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1030775/epl2/4.png" HEIGHT="527" WIDTH="875" BORDER="0">

    right click and open image in a new tab to see maximum size!

    <IMG SRC="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1030775/epl2/5.png" HEIGHT="527" WIDTH="875" BORDER="0">

    right click and open image in a new tab to see maximum size!

    as you see ive done my personal adjustments on the image but if you see the histogram everything is perfectly within range and nothing is clipped, or not as bad to show this artifacts.

    so this to me, is a sensor problem, and im not talking that this is a really long exposure to get the sensor hot enough to produce this type of artifacts, is jut a 15sec exposure!. not even the EPL2 default maximum time!. I have exposed my 5dMK2 up to 5 or 6 minutes without getting any of this!. not saying that this is worst or anything like that, im actually, worried if this is something to do with the sensor in Pen cameras, or is it that my copy of the EPL2 is faulty? or this is one of the restrictions in this type of sensors?. i couldnt find any info on google about it. so i thought ill post it here.

    any comments or info would be highly appreciated guys! :smile:
  2. Sammyboy

    Sammyboy m43 Pro

    Oct 26, 2010
    Steeler Country
    This is noise generated due to long exposure, turn on "noise reduction". Refer to bottom of page 51 in the owners manual. There's nothing wrong with your sensor, this is common. Do one in color, you will see the noise.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Monza76

    Monza76 Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 22, 2012
    This is not in reference to any sensor problem but the comment on f22 and sharpness. Diffraction sets in with such a short focal length lens since f22 at 14mm is acting like a large pinhole. For landscape shots where maximum sharpness is the goal a more modest aperture like f11 would probably produce a sharper image. The f22 aperture on a 28mm Canon full frame lens on a 5D may be completely acceptable since the physical aperture would be much larger than on the 14mm.

    Cannot explain the sensor spots.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    thanks for your reply!, but I've always had and just triple checked, NR OFF and Noise Filter OFF as well... :frown:
  5. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    hmm...this sounds interesting. thanks for the answer! this totally makes sense to me. most of the shots i got at f22 were terrible. :frown::confused: 
  6. Monza76

    Monza76 Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 22, 2012
    Glad to be of some help.
  7. krugorg

    krugorg Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jul 18, 2011
    Minnesota USA
    First off, still looks like a beautiful area! Would love to visit that spot.

    As other mentioned, you don't need to crank down to F22. With that 14mm, you should be able to get enough depth of field for a landscape with something like f5.6. I usually focus about 1/3 way into the frame and everything is sharp. Have you checked out the following DoF calculator? It helped me a lot when doing landscape stuff...

    Online Depth of Field Calculator

    Also, like others pointed out, it is helpful to have the long exposure NR on (I have the other one off as well) for these type of shots. Obviously, the exposure time would have been much less at f5.6 or so.
  8. mattia

    mattia Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 3, 2012
    The Netherlands
    Couple of things
    - The 5DII sensor is still slightly better than even the best of the mu43's sensors. Not great for recovering shadows, perhaps, but the 5DII still beats my E-M5 for quality. May also be down to the glass I hang in front of it, have not done a head to head with the Zeiss mounted to both cameras

    - Long exposure will also generate 'noise' in the 5DII. I don't usually use the in-camera reduction for this, but prefer to 'just' work on the RAW. I Believe canon has this same feature, takes a 'dark' frame of the same exposure time and subtracts the noise pattern.

    - Both the E-PL2 and th 5DII will hit diffraction at much above F9, F11 tops, and that's where your sweet spot lives in terms of sharpness. Google hyper focal distance for a bit more help in understanding.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. You actually want noise reduction to be turned ON so that the camera takes a second dark frame and subtracts any hot pixels from the first image.
  10. RevBob

    RevBob Super Moderator Subscribing Member

    Jun 4, 2011
    NorthWestern PA
    It seems counter-intuitive but it works!
  11. dhazeghi

    dhazeghi Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Aug 6, 2010
    San Jose, CA
    The only time you really want to go to f/22 on m4/3 is when you're shooting macros (extreme close ups).

    You should set Noise Reduction to on. It takes effect on exposures longer than 4 seconds so there's really no downside.

    Noise Filter is the one you may choose to leave off, particularly if you shoot RAW or don't use ISOs above 400 much.

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