Sell My OMD 10?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Mass. Wine Guy, Oct 9, 2016.

  1. Mass. Wine Guy

    Mass. Wine Guy Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 17, 2015
    Ipswich, MA
    Is the OMD 10's metering inherently flawed? I've read many times about how its readings over expose. I don't want to remember to purposely underexpose every time I shoot. I also notice that the camera seems to blow out highlights.

    I'm also disappointed with low (or even low-ish) light focusing, although I don't mind using manual focus, but would it kill them to use phase detection and enter the 21st century?

    I'm not aware that the. MII upgrade fixes these issues.

    Thoughts and comments, please.
  2. Sniksekk

    Sniksekk Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    Apr 7, 2015
    Imo, EM-1 in aperature mode also over exposes.
    Manual mode is the best solution to that for me.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. MarkRyan

    MarkRyan Instagram: @MRSallee Subscribing Member

    May 3, 2013
    I never had issues with exposure on my EM10, but I am usually consciously exposing to the right, so I'm always aware of my histogram. I use ESP metering.

    Which lenses are giving you focus issues in low light?

    (P.S. No one ever posts photos that illustrate their problems, really hard to diagnose / provide helpful suggestions.)
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Mass. Wine Guy

    Mass. Wine Guy Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 17, 2015
    Ipswich, MA
    It doesn't overexpose in manual mode?
  5. king_solom0n

    king_solom0n Mu-43 Regular Subscribing Member

    Jun 9, 2015
    1. Which metering mode are you using?
    2. What lens(es) are you using?
  6. Turbofrog

    Turbofrog Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 21, 2014
    Panasonic cameras since the GX7 have extremely reliable low light AF, so I'm not sure it's a PDAF thing...
  7. Sniksekk

    Sniksekk Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    Apr 7, 2015
    My native language is not english, so there could be some misunderstandings, so I`m trying to keep this reply simple.
    Both yes and no (for me). It depends on the situations.
    Sometimes A setting on my cameras is the "easy" way out, when I don`t want to focus to much on settings.
    But this "easy" way out, often gives me pictures that I think is to bright.

    So to generalise I do think that "A" setting in my eyes, is to bright, I often get better results (that I like better) when in manual mode,
    and under-expose the pictures more then the camera will do automatically in pure "A" mode.

    So before selling the E-M10 because you think it over-exposes, I would try out manual setting in situatuations where you think the camera overexposes.
  8. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Have you experienced over exposure, or have you just read about it? In Custom Menu K, there is a setting for Exposure Shift, just set it to your desires. There is also an Exposure Compensation dial and a means to change the brightness of highlights and shadows. Info in the manual.

    The E-M5 (an older camera) with the 12-50mm kit lens focuses great in normal room light (say a 70watt bulb in the middle of a 12 x 12 room)and even much dimmer situations. The E-M10 should be at least equal to the E-M5.

    Your exposure and focusing problems may also be attributed to what modes you have those set up for. If it overexposes in Manual Mode, that would be the fault of the user and not the camera.
    • Informative Informative x 2
  9. Fred S

    Fred S Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 20, 2012
    Fred S
    My EM-10 also overexposes a little . I use the Exposure Compensation dial to shot to the left . Works GREAT
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    All cameras, from any brand, may (and should) overexpose or underexpose depending on the subject you are shooting. Dark subjects are always overexposed and bright subjects are always underexposed. Mixed subjects/scenes (half bright, half dark) or greysh scenes gives the natural exposure, and most situations fall in this category. This is the reason you have a whole big dial for exposure compensation (it is not there for "artistic" effects).
    Make sure to really grasp how metering is supposed to work (maybe you already do).
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    That's right & why there are three different metering modes available to make it easier.
  12. I use custom profiles and set the exposure a couple of dials to the left. This way when I select a profile I've got the exposure compensation automatically. I find it easier to fix underexposed photos as opposed to overexposed. Once you over saturate the sensor there's no amount of PP to recovery those highlights in the worst cases.
  13. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    Set exp comp to one of the dials, turn on over/under exposure warnings and adjust the compensation for every shot. It's called photography ;) 

    PS - I lived in Ipswich MA many years ago (Turkey Shore Rd) and was back there visiting friends only last weekend. I love that place.
    • Like Like x 3
  14. fader

    fader Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Aug 20, 2016
    Brest, France
    My EPL7 (same guts as the em10) seems to overexpose by 0.3 EV judging from jpegs. But if I compensate for that the RAW looks underexposed. I started shooting more with program shift and watching the histogram as a result.
  15. geert

    geert Mu-43 Rookie

    Aug 3, 2016
    never had any problem with meter system of the fine olympus omd10.

    However, give yourself 1 hour time to really figure out how its works and what you want.
    The olympus is not the easiest camera.

    I'll give it a try :
    1/ exposure always has been tricky. In the early days a serious photographer used a light meter to mesure the light falling on the subject : light meter near his subject and aiming to the camera ( with a diffuser ) . a Weston was the cool kit.
    Later a spotmeter was the real thing : you could mesure from the camera to the part of the subject that you wanted to be exposed correctly.
    what I mean : exposure IS difficult
    2/ what your camera wants to do is to give your subject ( or what you are measuring ) the same intensity of the standard Grey Card.
    (example : picture in the snow : is "underexposed"=meaning the snow is grey, not white.)
    3/skin tones ( in shadow) , green ( grass, trees etc ), subjects in the shadow are comparable with the Standard Grey Card

    practical :
    give it a try with selecting "spot meting" on what you want correctly exposed ( face, foreground, trees, not the sky etc)and lock it.

    if that's correct but you prefer the "average meeting" take some time and take the same picture with first "spot" and then "average " both with bracketing and find out what compensation you have to give and use that as a standard. ( in the early days you could 'cheat' with the iso (asa-din) dial). use JPEG for this test and look at your pictures on a good screen.
    I think the answer from Fader is correct about that ( as you are about overexposure) 0.3 EV

    about blowing out the highlights : m43 is not famous for his dynamic range, that's right. A Nikon 810 is better.

    I hope this helps a bit,
    groeten, GeerT.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  16. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    I have loads of used camera bodies : only one (e-pm2 I think) wanted to overexpose so I put an EV-comp of minus 1/3 on it.
    Simple solution.
    A solution is a solution : do it.
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. fader

    fader Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Aug 20, 2016
    Brest, France
    geert gives good advice. nothing beats an incident light meter once you get used to that, and it's fun to cross-check the readings between camera (which meters the scene based on reflected light) and a dedicated meter. I miss my old Luna Pro dearly. I'll never trust a camera's meter the way I trusted that thing. I don't miss the fuss ...


    edit: quick overview of the differences Reflected vs Incident Metering
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2016
  18. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    I'll tell you what beats an old light meter (incident or otherwise) - a modern mirrorless camera with live view and over/exposure indicators. Incident light meters won't help with overblown skies.
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2016
    • Agree Agree x 3
    • Like Like x 1
  19. fader

    fader Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Aug 20, 2016
    Brest, France
    We can agree to disagree then, as there is no substitute for a good incident meter in a great number of scenarios - portraits (environmental or not) and studio work being the obvious cases.
  20. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    That might work for static scenes etc, but for anything where there is action, things happening, then there would not be any time for such deliberate metering, but thankfully the cameras today, especially with the Olympus models we are discussing, it is very easy to display a histogram & it is worthwhile learning to understanding it, but despite that, the Live Display (screen or EVF) should be sufficient for most situations & a quick bias adjustment takes care of. Save both JPEG & RAW files & you're covered.
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