selective sharpening with Capture One?

Discussion in 'Image Processing' started by sriracha, Jul 18, 2015.

  1. sriracha

    sriracha ballistic photons Subscribing Member

    Jan 22, 2011
    hey all... i am trying out the Capture One software and have a quick question:

    is there a similar function to Lightroom where you hold down the option (i'm on a Mac) button and adjusting the sharpening sliders to target specific areas you want?
  2. ijm5012

    ijm5012 Mu-43 Legend

    Oct 2, 2013
    Pittsburgh, PA
    I can't help you with your question, but I would be interested in your thoughts of how C1P compares to LR after you'd had some time to play around with it and get more familiar with it.
  3. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I don't know LR functions but Capture One 8 has layers where you can mask an area & play with various characteristics, including sharpening in that area etc.
  4. sriracha

    sriracha ballistic photons Subscribing Member

    Jan 22, 2011
    my initial thoughts on the Mac version. also, this is written from the person who is not a pro, that mainly shoots travel and landscapes, and averages about 2000 images shot per year
    • what i liked
      • RAW interpretation for the EM-10. C1P nails it pretty close to what i see on jpegs and live view
      • less confusing interface during file import. i had (and still have) a hard time grasping Lightroom's import process and will often send it the wrong folder or the folder will be missing the appropriate name. probably just me but the whole UI is very convoluted
      • adjustment offerings are pretty close to LR. disclaimer here: most of the tweaks i have done are exposure and color settings. have not gotten to masking, dodging, burning etc
      • lens correction offering is nice. i know some (or was it all?) m43 lenses have corrections baked in upon importing to Lightroom but C1P have actual profiles setup (e.g. P 12-35mm f/2.8) for individual lenses

    • what i did not like so much
      • highlight / shadow adjustments are one way only. in LR you can increase or decrease the values from default, but in C1P highlights can only be pulled back and shadows can only be pushed up. i am sure there is a workaround but i have not googled for it
      • user interface could use a bit more indications. i have come to appreciate how LR gives visual indicators for the effect of various sliders. use saturation as an example, i can immediately tell moving it one way increases saturation (the rainbow color end) and the other way reduces situation (the dark gray end). the "icon + text" option does not seem to work for the toolbar even though i have selected the option. takes a little searching to figure out what the icons do. all in all, increasing familiarity will resolve most of the issues but definitely not as friendly as it could be
      • selective adjustments / masking (LR option key + sharpen / whites / blacks etc). this one is hard to explain if you never used it before in LR. check out point #4 in this article the function is more than likely available in C1P but i just have not found it yet
    so far i think it is pretty darn good.

    • Useful Useful x 2
  5. TransientEye

    TransientEye Mu-43 Regular

    Sep 18, 2013
    On the shadows/highlights thing, I think the HDR tool is just - is intended to produce higher dynamic range, rather than less. However, you can mimic the controls in Lightroom by just adjusting the exposure/brightness/contrast to effectively give negative HDR adjustments.

    On sharpening, I think that C1's "threshold" setting is roughly equivalent to Lightroom's masking, although I do not know of any way to get the useful visual guide that Lightroom's ALT key gives.

    The addition of mask layers was a good step forward for C1 (and is still missing from DXO...), but I still find LR easier to use, particularly with the collection handling.

    By default, C1 applies a lot of noise reduction and sharpening to µ4/3 files, and it also seems to have a slightly different tone curve and colour temperature. However, if you set the settings correspondingly the same in both LR and C1, it is very very hard to see the difference in output. I believe that there is some DXO-like lens-specific sharpening that is not present in LR, but I have not yet seen an image in C1 that could not be achieved with equivalent settings in LR (perhaps with an auto-applied import preset, if you like that...). C1 allegedly has better colour controls that LR, although I still have not really understood how to use them well.

    I have continued to check C1 as an alternative to LR given the worrying trend towards software subscriptions from Adobe. FWIW, I actually prefer DXO's output to both LR and C1 - but the catalogue management and DXO's lack of correction layers (for dust spots - I scan a lot of film) has meant that I have remained with LR for now.
  6. JudyM

    JudyM Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 5, 2010
    Westminster, MD
  7. maritan

    maritan Mu-43 Veteran

    Oct 30, 2014
    @JudyM@JudyM - Do you use C1P8? I've been thinking about getting a C1P trial in the next few months when I go on my next trip and take a ton of photos. I find that nothing gets me more motivated to learn a new piece of software than absolutely HAVING to process pictures. I do not like going back to an old set and reprocessing them.

    This thread has been very interesting so far. I just want to be able to extract the most possible out of my ORFs.
  8. SojiOkita

    SojiOkita Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 23, 2014
    I'm quite surprised for this comment.
    I have an E-M10 and a GM1 I tried C1 last month.
    Colors are quite pleasing with the GM1, but I find the E-M10 colors quite awful. There's a yellow-ish cast I can't remove.

    I created a topic about it:

    I'm must say I'm not considering the "JPEG colors" to be any reference (I don't even shoot JPEGs) and that I find that a RAW converter does not have to replicate JPEG colors.
    (on the contrary, it should provide color consistency between 2 different bodies, and with C1 colors are completely different between my 2 bodies).

    Lens correction for m43 bodies is automatic Lightroom.
    However, you can't deactivate it, and that's a pity.
    Sometimes, for landscape, it's better not to correct distorsion.

    In C1, only Panasonic bodies have the "manufacturer correction" available.
    On Olympus bodies, you have to use the available "lens profiles", that are not always available (example: panasonic 12-32)

    (I also have to mention a big plus for Lightroom: projections corrections are available for Samyang 7.5 mm fisheye)

    I did not use C1 enough to give a proper conclusion about it.
    I am way more productive with Lightroom because I'm using it for years, and I know exactly how to obtain the result I want.

    C1 seems very complete, maybe a little too much (I want to make adjustments for an image in a very short time).
    Anyway, it misses green fringing corrections (which is very important thing with my PL25), and some library functions (as geotagging).
  9. JudyM

    JudyM Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 5, 2010
    Westminster, MD
    I'm currently on Capture One Pro version 8.3. I have Corel and Photoshop, and I tried demos of ACDSee, Lightroom and a few others. They're all very capable programs, but I liked the feel of Capture One the best. I don't get heavily into layers and masks, most of my photo editing is pretty basic. That makes Capture One pretty quick to use. If I have a number of shots that need similar adjustments, I edit one, copy the adjustments, select the shots I want to apply it to, and I'm done. That makes it pretty quick to use.
    • Like Like x 2
  10. sriracha

    sriracha ballistic photons Subscribing Member

    Jan 22, 2011
    @SojiOkita@SojiOkita - thanks for the clarification on the lens correction; it is very helpful. for the yellowish cast i do not have anything relevant to comment on. i read through the topic you created and it seems you / others are still in search of a solution. you may want to check the C1 forums, i believe there were people stating they felt C1P puts an orange / yellow tint on every single one of their pictures. there might be more answers or workarounds there to explore. although after reading a couple of posts there, the only conclusion i can draw is color preferences are highly dependent on the individual

    @TransientEye@TransientEye @JudyM@JudyM - thanks for the suggestions. i will give both a try to see how it works
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2015
  11. SojiOkita

    SojiOkita Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 23, 2014
    Yes, I agree with this;) 
  12. JudyM

    JudyM Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 5, 2010
    Westminster, MD
    For what it's worth, I've never seen an orange/yellow tint on any of my photos. My E-M1 tends to go magenta-blue, my a7R blue, and my GF1 a bit cyan. My 5D Mark II was almost neutral, with no prominent color cast. Of all these cameras, photos from the E-M1 are the hardest to color correct. I tend to trust auto white balance since most of my shooting is outdoors in daylight. It does reasonably well most of the time, but it's a habit I should probably break.
  13. JudyM

    JudyM Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 5, 2010
    Westminster, MD
    • Useful Useful x 1
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