Rookie Questions: Last Nights "Meetup" Studio Shoot

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by rezoguitar, Aug 23, 2014.

  1. rezoguitar

    rezoguitar New to Mu-43

    Jul 15, 2014

    I had my first experience with a new "MeetUp" group last night. It was in a studio and there were several models to shoot. I had my Em10, there was a Sony there, the rest of the cameras were Canikons.

    All the lighting was set up (Alien Bees) and the tech guy said to set your cameras for: manual mode, 1/160th, f/8, and ISO 100. There were some wireless triggers that were passed around and folks slid those on, took their shots, and handed the triggers to the next person to do the same.

    This was all new to me and I declined to shoot because I didn't know, on my Olympus:

    1) if I should be at ISO 200 or "low". What should I have set my camera for if ISO 100 is programmed in the external flash unit?

    2) aperture: I've always presumed f/whatever = f/whatever regardless of format/sensor Correct?

    3. Is a hotshoe a universal interface for wireless triggers? - can I just turn off my camera, slide one on, turn on the camera, and shoot? There is no setting in the camera to be turned on or "set to"? Nothing Olympus proprietary on the hotshot size or contacts?

    4. I had planned on giving face&eye detect a go. No reason not to in this scenario, correct?

    It was a fun and interesting outing and I am hoping to participate next time round.


  2. usayit

    usayit Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    To keep it simple, you can set your camera to LOW ISO and that should approximate ISO 100.

    Yes.. As instructed you can set your camera to f/8

    Yes. If the trigger unit is not compatible with Olympus TTL, it should just do a standard single pin Xsync trigger. Most of my flashes are not Olympus TTL compatible.... work just fine.

    Yes. No reason not to try it out.

    I would have participated anyways explaining that you are still figuring your way around the new system. Its the best time to learn... around other people and with the equipment being learned. Really, there is so little real world operational difference between MFT and any other camera DSLR or otherwise. Just because MFT has a smaller sensor and sans-mirror doesn't mean you have to change the way one shoots.
  3. rezoguitar

    rezoguitar New to Mu-43

    Jul 15, 2014
  4. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    +1 to usayits advice. I was in a similar class type situation last summer with my e-m5. The lowest I could go was 200 all I did was shoot at f11 as opposed to f8.

    Learning to use studio strobes or even just off camera flash is well worth the effort.The Oly flash system is pretty good.

    this shot was from the class I took - 75/1.8 @ f11 with a big studio strobe and soft box

    [​IMG]P6220095 by kevinparis, on Flickr

    these are a few of yours truly using Oly FLR600

    45mm @ 1.8, FLR600 in softbox

    [​IMG]P8020026 by kevinparis, on Flickr

    This was the 50mm @ f6.3 with flash bouncing off light coloured wall behind the camera

    [​IMG]P9130063 by kevinparis, on Flickr

    more samples of em-5 and simple flash set up here

    and here

    the latter set was a combination of i think 3 flashes

  5. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    See what you did there?
    Blah blah excuses.

    you should have approximated the instructions with your gear and taken good photos of ... whatever.
    I mean, that's what you were there for, right?
    • Like Like x 1
  6. rezoguitar

    rezoguitar New to Mu-43

    Jul 15, 2014
    Thank you Kevin. Nice

    Sorry Ulfy, I'm just not at your natural genius level to be accomplish at everything within a few months.

    Why be helpful and teach when you can be an ASSHAT.

    I won't bother you with my pathetic postings ever again.
  7. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 20, 2012
    Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia
    Real Name:
    Don't get upset with Ulfric as his comments can be taken as being a little 'tongue in cheek' .

    As far as ISO goes I would have gone for 200 as that would give you the best in dynamic range & then adjust the aperture as needed (since f8 is only a starting point at a shoot) for the fixed flash output level. My first studio experience I was told to use ISO200 when in fact ISO100 would have been better on my E520 & I could have tried f8 to start with & then gone wider if I needed to. The teacher at the time was also insisting on using JPEG when it would have been better to have saved raw as well, which I started to do later on in the class. Apart from not being being sure about the flash connection, I would encourage you to not hold back next time & just have a go anyhow.
  8. robbie36

    robbie36 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2010
    Real Name:
    rob collins
    There is one other important setting change you need to do when using a mirrorless in a studio. You need to go to Cog 'D' in the menu and set 'Live view boost' to 'on'. This is so you can see the model with the settings you chose. Your settings are set for exposing correctly with the flash but they would produce a very underexposed photo without flash. And unless you put liveview boost on the lcd and EVF will simply reflect these under exposed settings.
    • Like Like x 2
  9. clockwork247

    clockwork247 Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 4, 2013
    1) I don't know what ISO setting your camera has, but when working with flash/strobe, Aperture and ISO can be interchange without effecting too much of the ambient light. So for your example because you are sitting at ISO 200 (and can't go lower), then just go ahead and close down your aperture 1 stop. So if he was at F8 you'll go to F11. Easy fix.

    2) Aperture across sensor size needs a long essay, but essentially in term of exposure yes, if the settings are the same your exposure will be the same regardless of sensor size, the other effect that aperture have is DOF, and that really has a big effect when you're talking about different sensor size.

    3) The hot shoe can be both "dumb" and "smart", all hotshoe has a center point trigger, and if no electronic info is relay, then it becomes a "dumb" hot shoe, and it triggers when you hit your shutter button without relaying any info. In your case describe above, the hotsude is a dumb one. In other cases where you have an olympus flash mounted on your hotshoe, it can relay info and it becomes a "smart" hotshoe using the other contact points to relay info, you may have heard of the term TTL, what it really do is that it relay the info to the flash, and the flash calculate how much light is needed to "correctly" expose the subject without you doing anything (aka, it doesn't need the tech to run to the strobe, set it's distance and power and all that nice junk). Most wireless triggers are dumb, and because they're giving it to people with all different brand cameras you can be certain it's a dumb trigger.

    4) you are talking about focus, to be honest, it doesn't hurt, but in your case with that camera (and this go with all mirrorless camera), you have so many focus point to chose from, I would just frame the subject, select your appropriate focus point and start nailing it. that way you're sure 100% of the time you're nailing it right in the eye. The eye focus IMO is only useful on DSLR, with mirrorless it's not as powerful of a tool.
  10. Mikefellh

    Mikefellh Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 7, 2012
    Toronto, Canada
    My experience is different from what others here have said.

    1. I use ISO200...ISOLOW for me looks odd. That being said the meetup leader should be using ISO200 for everyone...some Nikons also don't have ISO100.

    2. Since ISO is doubled, Aperture should be made smaller by AT LEAST the same amount...I find I prefer to close down another 1/3-2/3 of a stop.

    3. Most strobes used in studio are manual (non-TTL). I was at one yesterday that used a Yongnuo YN-622N TTL trigger but it was connected to manual strobes. When connected to non-Nikon cameras it would just trigger the strobe. But when it was connected to a Nikon it would project a laser focus target onto the subject. It did work fine on my E-M5. You have to set the flash mode to either (forced) fill flash, or 2nd curtain.

    4. I use normal SAF auto focus. The only time I switch to manual focus is if it's a low light or painting with light those cases I zoom in, use the AFL, and then zoom out...and then shoot manual focus until I or the model moves...then I hit AFL again. Face detection is useless if the model is facing away from you and you can only see a small portion of the side of her face.
  11. rezoguitar

    rezoguitar New to Mu-43

    Jul 15, 2014
    Really good stuff, thanks everyone. A number of things I wouldn't have thought of but now will incorporate this into the next Meetup studio shoot.
    -Going to f/11 and staying @ 200 makes perfect sense now, of course.
    -Live View boost to on - wouldn't have made that connection on my own.
    -Good to know about smart and dumb hotshoe scenarios.
    -Interesting to have the face/eye detect thought through a bit farther. I see the downside now.

    I apologize to the members here for the rant response, I was just really, really taken back. This is the "classy" restaurant of photos forums so I'll keep my manners as such.
  12. RKF

    RKF Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 3, 2014
    As some others have said (though it bears repeating):

    If you want to avoid dialing your ISO below 200 (and thereby reducing your dynamic range a bit), the way to compensate for ISO 200 (while everyone else is at ISO 100) is to simply alter one of the other factors in the equation.

    And I would say the best one to alter would be your aperture. So, simply stop down your aperture by one stop (which is equivalent to dropping the ISO by one EV) to f/11.

    Couple other things:

    My ONLY concern with going to f/11 is that, of course, you are increasing DOF, AND you begin to run into diffraction issues when you stop m4/3 down that far. Those two points having been made, in the case of a lot of studio portraiture, it shouldn't be much of a factor, provided your subject is close to the central part of the frame and you're shooting against a plain or neutral background.

    Regarding the face and eye detect, on the Olympus cameras I find it works extremely well, depending upon the light. Outdoors I find the hit rate to be close to 90%. As light levels and contrast drop, that ratio goes down, so selecting your own focus point can provide more assurance.

    Were they using a modeling light in the studio? If so, you can probably rely on face detect. If not, I would switch to manually picking your points (easy to do on the Olympus OM cameras).