Results of E-M1 mk1 at football game :-(

ac12

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@ac12 some thoughts:
- size of the single point AF, my experience is that larger box is faster to focus, smaller of course more precise. I’ve also used 9 boxes successfully (although I’m shooting with E-M5.2)
- you have the fastest available memory card, sorry this being too obvious, to minimise freeze in bursts (some occasions I’ve used jpeg only, much faster)
- EVF - it just is difficult for fast action

I’m not shooting that much fast action (sport) and one reason is that I don’t have the gear for that. But I’ve managed to get just enough acceptable shots when needed to with E-M10 and E-M5.2 (and also Fuji X-T1)

I tried 9 box (3x3) but it covered too much area. It appears to work as an area/zone focus vs. center+dynamic 9. And with other player in close proximity, it got the other players rather than MY subject/player. So I went back to single point AF.

Fast card and shot JPG.

Yes, the EVF is my problem.
 

ac12

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The E-M1 Mk1 is not great at unloading its buffer to SD card - it can only write at about 30 MB/s which isn't even as fast as the fastest UHS-I cards...
Review: SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s 32GB SDHC UHS-I Memory Card - Camera Memory Speed Comparison & Performance tests for SD and CF cards

I'm not maxing the buffer. The frozen image happens after a 2 or 3 shot burst. So the frozen image display is not from a maxed buffer.
I usually shoot short bursts, and rarely more than 10 shots.
Though I have not tried the FAST silent shutter, yet.

Thanks for the info, this helps me to know how fast a card I really need for the EM1.

I just ran the Crystal Mark test, and I get 44MB/sec on the SanDisk Ultra 80, so I am above the max of the camera.
 
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barry

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I got about a second of frozen image in the EVF after each burst shot. I shot in Continuous Low + Rec View to OFF.
Hi,
What firmware version are you on (4.4 is current iirc), and what frame rate do you have set for Continuous Low?
 

ac12

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Same here, definitely not seeing that (I just checked again).
I can post my settings spreadsheet if you'd like to compare.

I found that I cannot duplicate the problem at home (no kids or dogs running around to track).
I have to be tracking and shooting a kinda fast moving subject (running basketball or soccer player) to see that frozen image in the EVF.

Yes, I would appreciate seeing your settings.
 

barry

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I found that I cannot duplicate the problem at home (no kids or dogs running around to track).
I have to be tracking and shooting a kinda fast moving subject (running basketball or soccer player) to see that frozen image in the EVF.

Yes, I would appreciate seeing your settings.
OK... I did shoot a HS baseball game last summer using Continuous Low, but I rarely use C-AF and never C-AF+Tracking (if that's what you're referring to by Tracking).

My settings spreadsheet is at
Olympus BJG em1settings v4.4 (biofos.com).xlsx
The 'MySet1 std column' is what I'm using now, and I switched the shooting mode to Continuous Low using the top left button for the test today.

This spreadsheet is based upon the ones at biofos.com; How to setup, configure and customise your OM-D E-M1.
 

ac12

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I use C-AF not C-AF+tracking.
By tracking I meant physically tracking the player as they are moving, and holding them in the center of the screen.

That is a NEAT spreadsheet.
I'm going to have to download it and use it for my configuration records.
 

rich.smith

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Back from my soccer games. :(
Full daylight so optimal conditions, no night time low light issues to degrade performance.
Here are the issues that I ran into:
  • I got about a second of frozen image in the EVF after each burst shot. I shot in Continuous Low + Rec View to OFF.
    That really messed up my ability to follow the action, as I could not see any action during the time that the EVF image was frozen, and lost track of the moving players. The follow on shot was difficult, as I had to reacquire the player in the EVF after it went live.
    • Single shot, seemed to be the only mode that did not have that frozen last image display. But then I obviously loose the sequence/burst capability.
    • This became quite an irritation, and I was glad to switch to the Nikon D7200 for the 2nd half of the game.
    • I need to see if there is a config setting that I missed.
  • The EVF refresh rate did not seem fast enough to allow tracking the fast moving players.
    • The refresh rate was set to fast, but was not fast enough.
  • AF sometimes got totally lost, and went VERY VERY blurry. :confused:
    • This was full daylight, so no excuse of not enough light to focus with, or the lens aperture is too slow for the light level.
    • Was it the solid color jersey or the mono-color astroturf?
    • I was in single point AF, so error in placement of the AF point onto a subject was my fault.
      • There were too many players in close proximity to each other to use any of the zone/area AF modes.
  • For some reason, I would loose track of the game more often with the EM1 than with the D7200.
    • Was it the EVF display, the refresh rate . . . ?
Verdict:
For fast moving sports/action, the EM1 as it is currently configured just does not do the job :(
The major problem was the "frozen last shot display" in the EVF, which prevented me from continuing to track the subject in the EVF.
If this problem could be resolved, then the EM1 would be usable.​

Try setting the speed for continuous high to 9 fps and use continuous high instead of continuous low. I find the 6.5 fps too choppy. I use continuous high for soccer and do not get EVF freezing. I have many 2 - 3 second sequences following players in various directions.
 

JonSnih

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Try setting the speed for continuous high to 9 fps and use continuous high instead of continuous low. I find the 6.5 fps too choppy. I use continuous high for soccer and do not get EVF freezing. I have many 2 - 3 second sequences following players in various directions.

I can recommend this blog post by sport pro Mark D. Young. Mark switched from the 4/3 system to the m4/3. He used the E-M1.1 + Zuiko 50-200 SWD for sport assignments that day. According to his article I bought the E-M1.1 last summer to replace the E-M5.1. With his settings the camera is very good performer. I can see some users already hinted "suitable" settings for shooting sport events but there are more explanation to it.

Further read: His review of the E-M1.1 and firmware observations - see part 3. Transformation of the E-M1 AF performance through Firmware Version 3. and 4. Enter firmware Version 4.
 
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ac12

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Try setting the speed for continuous high to 9 fps and use continuous high instead of continuous low. I find the 6.5 fps too choppy. I use continuous high for soccer and do not get EVF freezing. I have many 2 - 3 second sequences following players in various directions.

I need continuous low, as distance can be constantly changing, so the AF has to be adjusting focus for each shot.
- As when I am standing beyond the goal line, and shooting a player coming towards the goal (and me).
- As I understand it, continuous high locks AF on the first shot.
 

wjiang

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I need continuous low, as distance can be constantly changing, so the AF has to be adjusting focus for each shot.
- As when I am standing beyond the goal line, and shooting a player coming towards the goal (and me).
- As I understand it, continuous high locks AF on the first shot.
Actually, a confusing aspect of the E-M1 Mk1 is that they changed continuous high mechanical shutter to do PDAF-only AF in latter firmware - you can yell because the PDAF focus targets appear during the burst. Silent shutter still locks the AF for continuous high.

They did it properly in the E-M1 Mk2 where you get 10 FPS in continuous low.
 

ac12

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Actually, a confusing aspect of the E-M1 Mk1 is that they changed continuous high mechanical shutter to do PDAF-only AF in latter firmware - you can yell because the PDAF focus targets appear during the burst. Silent shutter still locks the AF for continuous high.

They did it properly in the E-M1 Mk2 where you get 10 FPS in continuous low.

I am at FW ver 4.4
So I CAN use continuous high mechanical shutter for sports :)
 

ac12

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Yes, with the previously discussed limitation that you lose live view during the burst and end up seeing a sequence of the just taken images.

Drat, I was hoping it was something to avoid pushing an upgrade to a mk2. :(
I generally skip sequential models, so by that logic I would skip the mk2, and wait for the mk3 or mk4.

It is back to the D7200 for fast sports. And I will just shoot 2 systems.
At this point I don't think it is worth spending more time and $$$$ on the EM1 for fast sports.
 

rich.smith

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Drat, I was hoping it was something to avoid pushing an upgrade to a mk2. :(
I generally skip sequential models, so by that logic I would skip the mk2, and wait for the mk3 or mk4.

It is back to the D7200 for fast sports. And I will just shoot 2 systems.
At this point I don't think it is worth spending more time and $$$$ on the EM1 for fast sports.

I can tell you that I am able track players in the EVF when shooting sequential high at 9 fps. There is definitely flicker but I suggest you get it a try using 9 fps before discounting it.
 

ac12

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I can tell you that I am able track players in the EVF when shooting sequential high at 9 fps. There is definitely flicker but I suggest you get it a try using 9 fps before discounting it.

Well I do have a soccer and basketball game to shoot this week, so I will give it another try at continuous high.
 

rich.smith

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Well I do have a soccer and basketball game to shoot this week, so I will give it another try at continuous high.

Be sure to set the H fps rate to 9fps. (Gear menu C, option 4)

I have a myset setup for sports shooting that is assigned to the SCN dial position. ("S" for sports). The myset selects shutter priority, 1/1250 shutter speed, Auto ISO, continuous high, JPG format, S-IS off, C-AF, and 9 point focus point pattern that is centered left to right and one position above center top to bottom. I have been using C-AF lock normal, but I got good results on Saturday with C-AF Lock low.

When I go to a game to shoot, I just set the mode dial to SCN and I am ready to go.

Here is a shot from a 16 shot sequence on Saturday.
EM164512.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
 

ac12

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I've tried but cannot use any of the group/area/zone modes. I tried the 3x3 box. But when the players get close together, the camera does not know who to focus on.
A common problem is where the one player is significantly closer to me than my subject, but visually they look side-by-side. The camera will focus on the closer player, not MY subject further back.​
So I have been forced into single point AF, so that I can control who the camera focuses on. As a result, I have had a lot of misses, where I did not get the AF point on the subject, when I pressed the shutter.

I also figured out setting the AF point 1 high, to force the CW meter to meter the ground, rather than the DARK background (night games).

Oh how I wish I could to 1/1250 sec. I can do that while the sun is out, but as the sun goes down, so does the light, as I am forced to higher ISO and slower shutter speed.
 

rich.smith

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I've tried but cannot use any of the group/area/zone modes. I tried the 3x3 box. But when the players get close together, the camera does not know who to focus on.
A common problem is where the one player is significantly closer to me than my subject, but visually they look side-by-side. The camera will focus on the closer player, not MY subject further back.​
So I have been forced into single point AF, so that I can control who the camera focuses on. As a result, I have had a lot of misses, where I did not get the AF point on the subject, when I pressed the shutter.

I also figured out setting the AF point 1 high, to force the CW meter to meter the ground, rather than the DARK background (night games).

Oh how I wish I could to 1/1250 sec. I can do that while the sun is out, but as the sun goes down, so does the light, as I am forced to higher ISO and slower shutter speed.

It is a trade-off between hitting the wrong player with the 9 point block and hitting nobody with the single point. I am not consistent enough to use the single point.

In the spring I will shoot high school soccer, which is at night. During those games (especially early in the season), I am pushing the envelope. I posted a shot earlier in the thread that was shot with an E-M1 and 40-150 F2.8. ISO 6400, 1/800 @ F2.8, 150mm. Other photos were shot at 1/500 or 1/320. Once I get that slow, I switch to shooting more stationary situations.
 

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