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Raw shooter needing E-M1/E-M5 jpeg settings

Discussion in 'Image Processing' started by Replytoken, Aug 20, 2014.

  1. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    I normally shoot raw and PP in Lightroom, but I will be taking photographs at an out of town wedding, and will be without my primary computer. I do plan to shoot raw, but as I may need a handful of images for quick distribution, it looks like I will need my cameras to also provide me with jpegs. When I shot with my D300 and needed jpeg files for immediate distribution, I usually left everything neutral/flat. The results were acceptable, but nothing to get excited about. I know that many folks like Olympus' jpeg engines, and as I am running short on time, I cannot easily mimic my shooting situations (most likely dimly lit outdoor evening shots with flash), so I was wondering if I want some pleasing images SOOC, what would you suggest changing from flat/neutral. I am not looking for hype-saturation or significant effects, but I do want shots that will display on devices in a pleasing manner (prints will be handled by Lightroom when I am back home). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And, any WB tips would be greatly appreciated as well as this is not an issue when shooting raw files.

    Thanks,

    --Ken
     
  2. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I tend to use Natural, with ever so slightly reduced saturation. Auto-warm colours off, gradation to normal. I would use a fixed WB, as the auto-WB often makes things a bit warm (even with auto-warm colours off), and to avoid shifting auto-WB if there is AC fluorescent lighting. Apart from the usual WB presets, there are two manual WB capture presets plus a raw Kelvin preset that you can adjust, store, and quickly go back to.
     
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  3. Bl0at3r

    Bl0at3r Mu-43 Regular

    178
    May 21, 2012
    Essex, UK
    Alan
    Interesting post Ken, thanks.

    I am a RAW virgin - so am coming from the opposite direction.

    Although I do process my images they are always JPGs - either a little tweaking, cropping or B&W conversion. Every camera I buy, I say to myself I will try shooting RAW, blah, blah - and never do!

    Lots of people do it so I assume I must be missing something, but I am always pleased with the JPGs.

    What am I missing and what settings should I adjust with a RAW image? care to share workflows?

    Thanks
     
  4. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    I can give a short answer to your question now. First, if you are a good shooter, it is possible to get things nailed down in a jpeg, not unlike when we used to shoot transparencies. And whil I have shot for a number of years, and do try to get the shot at the time of exposure, I prefer raw as it is akin to shooting with negative film. A raw file is much more receptive to post processing, and I would rather work on refining a file in my computer where I have a large amount of resources (which I mostly used very sparingly). The issue with shooting jpeg files is that settings get "baked" into the 8-bit file that is created, and it is difficult to change any problems, like white balance. It is the same process as adjusting jpeg files, but working with raw files allows you much more latitude with less loss of image quality. It take a bit of time to get used to the work flow, but you might enjoy it if you do not need to output large numbers of images on a constant basis. Regarding workflow, I mostly use Lightroom, and there are a number of good videos that describe how to work on an image. Juliane Kost's Adobe videos are a good place to start. She is a good instructor, and the price is right!

    Good luck,

    --Ken
     
  5. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Check biofos.com for a setup guide for the e-m1.

    Barry


    Sent from my iPad using Mu-43
     
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  6. Neftun

    Neftun Mu-43 Veteran

    408
    Jul 15, 2012
    Norway
    Patrick Kristiansen
    I like the natural setting, usually dial sharpening down, NR low or off, Graduation Normal, contrast -1, to get punchy pics but still with some shadow details. Maybe fine-tune with the curve tool on Multifunction button. I´ve also programmed Fn1 to be one-shot WB, really useful for jpegs.
     
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