Quick lever release clamp - where can I find a good one at reasonable cost?

[Holoholo55]

Ah, Thanks. Yeah, I didn't really get the spring loaded thing at first It looks like this is the slightly larger Slick DQ-20 (but for a much bigger camera). That means the the DQ-10 should be plenty for whatever I put on my E-M5.

Ok, I shopped around and I can get the Slik DQ-10 for 33 AUD and the Vebon QRA-3 for 40 AUD. Cheaper is very welcome but is there any reason why the Velbon would be a better buy?

You're right. The DQ-20 uses the same plate as the SH-707E. However, I don't know if the DQ-20 or DQ-10 has the spring loaded lock like the SH-707E has. That feature is not mentioned at all in the description. Only found out about it after I got the tripod.

Unfortunately, Slik, like some other manufacturers, uses proprietary QR plates and has too many different models. You have to get the ones that fit your head.

 

[wjiang]

re plates: With most plates in my experience, the hole that the screw goes through is threaded. After possibly removing an E-clip, the screw can usually be removed by engaging the screw threads in the plate and just backing it out. Where the screw slides in a slot, usually one end of the slot has the threading.

re "cork stuff" it is not A Good Thing. Using that stuff and friction to prevent rotation is the Achilles heel of universal plates. Much better are the plates with a lip that engages the front of the camera body. There are universal ones where the screw is in a slot so the lip can be moved to suit.

The other problem with the "cork stuff" is a little more subtle. When making fine adjustments of your photo framing, overcoming the friction of the ball head can cause the stuff to compress. Then it rebounds when you let go of the camera and your framing moves. The high end Arca plates (RRS, Kirk, Acratech, etc.) almost never have any padding. They rely on a lip for anti-rotation and the contact between the plate and the camera body is metal/metal -- no compliant material.

For my new QR system I am hoping that this plate: http://www.ebay.com/itm/170973020075 works out. I have one coming and have some mods planned. That one gives me the lip, no padding, and both Arca and RC2 capability. Worst case I'll make something like it. Fortunately I have the machine tools I need for that.

wjiang you made me smile with your ten-step procedure for using an Arca system on a monopod. I never meant to imply that it was impossible, but as you so nicely illustrate it is fiddly. I prefer: (1) insert plate, listen for snap as the clamp engages (2) tighten clamp lever as necessary with now-free camera hand. Then removal: (1) holding camera with one hand and monopod with the other, (2) release clamp lever using whatever finger is best for you and lift camera free.

Ah, an e-clip... that seems to be it.

Re: the steps, to be fair, half of those steps were pointers for how I hold it, step by step. They could be combined into simpler steps if I omitted the detail.

 

[oldracer]

I'd be very interested to see how things work out for you ...

That plate arrived today. Overall impression is that it will work just fine. I have had to make a few minor mods to the plate to tailor it to my GX7s. The "D" shaped thingie attached to the mounting screw head is a cheap casting and immediately broke. I hope none of their customers tries to use it to attach a sling strap!

The way the plate mounts to the camera, an Arca Swiss clamp grips it on the sides and the Manfrotto RC2 clamp grips it front-to-back. This puts the Manfrotto release lever most logically at the front, under the lens, and out of the way. It's awkward to have it sticking out at the back when I am using the eye level finder. Some Arca nodal rails I see on eBay want to clamp front-to-back, but it looks like there are others that are happy left-to-right, so I don' think that's much of an issue.

I have ordered another trial plate (http://www.ebay.com/itm/201343525927) that has no lip, so it can be turned to put the Manfrotto clamp flange going left/right. Since the Manfrotto flange width is around a quarter inch/6mm wider than the Arca, turning it left/right reduces the amount of plate that sticks out beyond the camera base. I'll have to figure out something to replace the missing lip, probably a couple of small screw heads added to the part of the plate where that hand grip slot is.

For someone who is less lunatic fringe than I am, either plate would probably work fine to give dual-system compatibility, but I would suggest starting with the one that has the lip.

 

[TassieFig]

I asked B&H if any of the Slik/Manfrotto/Velbon bases would fit on the Sirui head;

"As far as I know you cannot remove the QR base from the Sirui head and even if you can, I would not recommend it."
+ a long explanation about Arca-Swiss superiority...

Now, I'm no expert here but that hex key in middle of the base looks to me as if you could remove it???!!! Am I missing something?

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[oldracer]

... that hex key in middle of the base looks to me as if you could remove it???!!! Am I missing something?

i'm sure you are right that removing that screw will allow you to separate the ball head from the Arca clamp. I don't want to discourage you -- I am constantly modifying my tools to better suit my needs and that is what we are talking about here. There are a couple of potential problems, however, that you should know about.

First, that screw almost certainly has some kind of thread locking compound on it. Loctite, maybe. Epoxy, maybe. Generous heat from a soldering iron will break down some thread lockers. If the thread lock is stubborn or you mess up the hex head trying to loosen the bolt, then you are going to have to drill out the bolt and remove it in pieces. This is almost impossible to do without at least some damage to the threads in the ball stem. I wouldn't even try it without a drill press or a milling machine.

Second, the top of the ball stem may not be flat. If you look at RRS's bare ball heads (http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop/BH-25-Ultra-Light-Ballhead/) you can see that they have an anti-rotation tab the inserts into a slot in the clamp. So if there is a tab and the clamp you want to use is not slotted you will have to file off the tab or have a slot cut in your clamp.

Assuming you do not have machine tools in your shop, if I were you I think I would concentrate on ball heads that have a 1/4-20 stud that your chosen clamp can screw onto. For example http://www.manfrotto.us/compact-ball-head or http://www.gitzo.com/centre-ball-head-g1177m Those ball heads are also available with the respective manufacturers' quick release system already installed and both systems feature automatic locking when the plate is inserted.

If you want the Sirui, no problem as long as you understand the potential issues. Every once in a while I throw something expensive away because my attempts to modify it instead ruined it. I write that off to tuition cost in the school of hard knocks and it doesn't bother me. You might feel differently, however.

 

[TassieFig]

First, that screw almost certainly has some kind of thread locking compound on it.

Yep, it sure does. I tried but couldn't get it loose and I don't really want to break anything. I'd love to have a go but my budget wont allow this atm. I will have to accept it and try to live with the C-10x as is for now. I might look at another head later on. That Manfrotto you linked to, or perhaps the 494, with a RC2 plate is what looks most interesting to me. Although they look like Russian prototypes from the seventies, they have some redeeming features I like.

What I will do though, is to try to do something about that stupid safety pin. Unfortunately it can't be removed unless I first remove the base first...I'm thinking about using a teeny bit of super glue on the sides of the pin and then press it down and see if it stays down.

Also, I will attempt to make a sort of a lip or ridge on my plate using sugru. There are 2 options;

1. put the plate on sideways so the knob is also sideways. More plate-to-camera contact but it's harder to get to the knob when under the camera. No like.
2. put the plate lengthways so the knob is freely available behind the camera. It will give me more room for the lip but there is also less contact between the plate and camera. Like but not sure if there will be too little contact?

Any suggestions? I guess another plate could be a solution (but I do like to fiddle with stuff and keep my pennies). A small, square plate is what I would like but haven't seen any.

 

[wjiang]

Would this not work? I've got a thicker version (didn't see this one), it fits fine on an E-M1.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Relea...800?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b142b82d8

Here's a bigger one (you might have to remove the two guide nuts at the bottom using an Allen key though):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Q...755?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d1dc5a6b

 

[TassieFig]

Would this not work?

The first one is similar size as the one I got. Is that all it takes to keep the camera from rotating? The lip looks very small...
I'm sure I can make a little sugru lip like that for less that 8 AUD

The 2nd is just too bulky (and pricey) for my liking

 

[wjiang]

The first one is similar size as the one I got. Is that all it takes to keep the camera from rotating? The lip looks very small...
I'm sure I can make a little sugru lip like that for less that 8 AUD

The 2nd is just too bulky (and pricey) for my liking

I just tried it, and once the screw is tightened (I'm using a thumb screw) it will stop the thing from coming lose and rotating off. Unfortunately, the weakness with this sort of universal design is not in the lip (that works as intended), but the fact that the screw can still slide up and down the slot in the plate. This means that the whole thing still has a little bit of play in it, which means when torque is applied on the tripod it will still nudge a little, until the lip stops it.

 

[Sammyboy]

i'm sure you are right that removing that screw will allow you to separate the ball head from the Arca clamp. I don't want to discourage you -- I am constantly modifying my tools to better suit my needs and that is what we are talking about here. There are a couple of potential problems, however, that you should know about.


Second, the top of the ball stem may not be flat. If you look at RRS's bare ball heads (http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop/BH-25-Ultra-Light-Ballhead/) you can see that they have an anti-rotation tab the inserts into a slot in the clamp. So if there is a tab and the clamp you want to use is not slotted you will have to file off the tab or have a slot cut in your clamp.

.... to remove the QR base from the Sirui head you have to remove the ballhead from the tripod, the balhead has to be disassembled, then the QR plate can be remove with to two supplied allen wrenches. ....... but I don't recommend doing this, like "oldracer" noted, it has an anti-rotation tab. .....

 

[TassieFig]

Ok, here's my attempt to add a lip to my tiny plate. It will have to cure overnight before I attach it to try but I think it will help

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EM57063.jpg by Tassie Fig, on Flickr

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EM57064.jpg by Tassie Fig, on Flickr

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EM57065.jpg by Tassie Fig, on Flickr

 

[TassieFig]

.... to remove the QR base from the Sirui head you have to remove the ballhead from the tripod, the balhead has to be disassembled, then the QR plate can be remove with to two supplied allen wrenches. ....... but I don't recommend doing this, like "oldracer" noted, it has an anti-rotation tab. .....

Hm, do you mean that you disassemble the ball from the head? I don't see anywhere to put any tools for that. Haven't got the supplied tool here either (don't even remember getting any but I might be wrong). Either way, if it has an anti rotation tab it's a dead end anyway

Thanks for the info, that will definitly keep me from breaking it apart.

 

[TassieFig]

Unfortunately, the weakness with this sort of universal design is not in the lip (that works as intended), but the fact that the screw can still slide up and down the slot in the plate.

Very good point that I just experience with my sugru lipped plate. The lip works great! But those pesky slots almost cancel out the improvement as soon as the screw loosen up (as they invariable do).