After reading in the Luminous Landscape and other online journals/bloggers, I decided a few months ago to start experimenting with 'Exposing to the Right.' Basically, this means that you watch your histogram, and adjust exposure (in my case, I shoot in A and adjust the EV) so it gets as close to the right side of the histogram without clipping (or I should say, without clipping things you don't want clipped -- see the example below). The benefit of this approach is that, when in high ISO, you saturate your sensors with the image you want, and then you pull back to the exposure you want in post, and it GREATLY reduces noise in your image. For me, I do this in RAW. I'm not sure if it's effective in jpg. Here's an example. First, the photo for a general idea of what is being shot: (exciting composition!) I took three shots all at ISO800 and f/2.5 on a Panny 14mm lens (EP1) and using evaluative metering: 1) a shot with zero EV (let the camera decide) 2) a shot with a negative exposure comp, to preserve highlights 3) a shot using the histogram to push the darker areas as far as I was willing. Note: on this shot, I knew the light would clip regardless, so I chose to blow it out to prove the noise point. Actual use is likely to lead to slightly lesser effects, but the benefit is always there. In post, I brought each shot to a similar exposure level as the zero EV shot (i.e. I brought up the underexposed shot, and brought down the overexposed shot). 100% crops: Detail, showing the overexposed shot on the left (darkened in post), and the 0EV shot on the right (untouched). Detail, showing the overexposed shot on the left (again, darkened), and the underexposed shot on the right (lightened in post). Detail, showing the overexposed shot on the left (darkened in post), and the 0EV shot on the right (untouched). Detail, showing the overexposed shot on the left (again, darkened), and the underexposed shot on the right (lightened in post). I take no credit for this. I learned it here: Expose Right I've been playing with it for a number of weeks, and I'm finding my pictures are richer and also respond better in post. I know other folks use HDR, which I haven't gotten the hang of. And Thom Hogan uses a process call UniWB that I have to admit I don't understand. Do other folks use other methods? I'd love to learn other approaches, and I hope to learn HDR someday, too!