Pros and Cons of P5, PM2, M10

gengo

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Trying to find some information comparing what the difference between these three cameras actually means.

I am someone new to photography (outside of a really cheap P&S) and I don't really know if I have a "shooting style" yet.

I like taking pictures of almost anything.

I currently have the PM2, bought it 02 May 2014. I'm looking to sell it and move to either the P5 or the M10.

However, I don't know if either would be "too much" camera for an extreme novice or not.

I've picked up how to use the PM2 in A,S,&M modes, though I find myself mainly in A.

What do I gain / lose by moving to either of the other two and what are the pros & cons of each of them?

Thank you for your time.
 

MarkRyan

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From your perspective, why do you want to upgrade? Is there something the EPM2 isn't doing for you?

IMO, novice or not, the tilting screens and active IBIS make the EP5 and EM10 a lot nicer to use. The added dials and buttons are nice for more advanced usage, but really I bet you'd find the cameras aren't that different from your EPM2. (I have an EP5 and an EPM2.)
 

drd1135

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Either is a fine choice. Both can be used in an "auto" mode and you can exert more control as you learn. The most important difference will probably be whether or not you want an EVF. As for IS the Ep5 has the edge now that the new firmware has remedied the shuttle shock issue.
 

gengo

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From your perspective, why do you want to upgrade? Is there something the EPM2 isn't doing for you?
I have SCP enabled, but I still find it a bit cumbersome to adjust what I want to adjust quickly. First press up, then press down to adjust aperture / shutter speed down when in A/S mode.

But thank you both for the responses.



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wilson

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I have SCP enabled, but I still find it a bit cumbersome to adjust what I want to adjust quickly. First press up, then press down to adjust aperture / shutter speed down when in A/S mode.
When I have my PM2 in A mode, just rotating the back dial will change the Aperture. Clicking up will immediately adjust to a larger f stop, and down will immediately adjust to a smaller f stop. There's no first press up, then press down delay for me.

On your camera, you probably have "Live Control" and "Live SCP" both turned on in the Setup->Gears->D->Control Settings->PASM menu. Ensure that "Live Control" is off, and everything will be happier. But even with Live Control and Live SCP both on, just rotating the back dial will immediately change the Aperture in A mode on my PM2.

I've got to say that Olympus' Touchscreen UI design is just terrible. And all those settings make it hard to figure out what setting does what.

Honestly if you just bought your camera 21 days ago and only have experience with cheap P&Ses, I recommend you spend some more time and learn how to use and get used to the camera before giving up. You're probably not going to like any of the Olympus' either, because they'll have all the same menu quirks.

Plus you've still not stated exactly what you dislike about the PM2 except what I've quoted above, which IMHO is not a good enough reason to spend several hundred dollars to swap to a P5 or M10.
 

Matero

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I have all these bodies you are talking :)

PM2 - sweet little thing that made me switch over to m43. Compact and light, easy so start with as it has less dials
E-P5 - advantages over E-M10, faster shutter speed, important in bright light, high aperture situations for shallow background, little bit better button layout IMHO, superb shooting experience with EVF VF-4
E-M10 - internal VF, more compact over E-P5 w/ external EVF

But as said by others, all are great and in the end not so different compared to each other


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iliyanb

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My advice:
Novice or not just invest in good lenses. There is nothing you could not do with the E-PM2. I had that camera for a year and bought 5 lenses in that period. Couple of days ago ugraded to E-M5, but lenses are something that has to be a priority.

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BAXTING

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You can setup the EMP2 so that it will work well in A mode. M mode will be a little more work until you get used to it. Id say use the mode that best suits the camera you are using to have the best chance to grab the shot unless you are shooting under controlled conditions.

Ive owned two EPM2's and decided stick with the EP5 although the EPM2 does a fantastic job. There is a dial on the front and one on the back of the EP5 also which is ideal for M mode which I use on the fly a lot. It has 5 axis IBIS which actually works really well. Tilty flippy screen meh, def a nice add on though if needed. It just works really well for my needs. I have had some lag with the front dial button, but not a deal breaker for me. I always loved my Lumix bodies more, and now I prefer to use the EP5 even though the EVF has to be attached. I have not used the EM10.

I honestly dont think you will know if you will like either better until you hold it or try it. I do know if you focus on creating great images with the EPM2, it will defnitely deliver.
 

Uncle Frank

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What do I gain / lose by moving to either of the other two
The only thing you have to gain is more credit card debt. :laugh1:

You've only owned your pm2 for 6 weeks, not nearly long enough to master it. There's no rush in moving to a more advanced body. Rather, spend your energy towards understanding the relationships between aperture, shutter speed, and iso, and learning photo processing. And spend your money acquiring a good kit of lenses. Jmho.
 

HarryS

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I have SCP enabled, but I still find it a bit cumbersome to adjust what I want to adjust quickly. First press up, then press down to adjust aperture / shutter speed down when in A/S mode.
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Go into the B menu and program the dial to change shutter speed n S mode and aperture in A mode. Then all you do is rotate the dial in either mode.
 

Ellsass

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I have SCP enabled, but I still find it a bit cumbersome to adjust what I want to adjust quickly. First press up, then press down to adjust aperture / shutter speed down when in A/S mode.
You should look into Panasonic. I feel the same way about the EPM2’s fiddly controls. Yes, you *can* control everything, but it’s not nearly as intuitive as it could be.

The Olympus is a like an obedient dog — it does exactly what you tell it to, but you really do have to give it commands quite clearly.

The Panasonic interface, on the other hand, tends to work in your favor and make it very simple to change things on the fly. There’s a lot of polish that helps out a novice (like me) which I found strange when I got an EPM2.
 

dejongj

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It's all individual. I have both the e-p5 and the Panasonic G6. I much much prefer the Oly for user interface. Especially the fact that there is hardly ever a need to go into it :)

Have come from Nikon, the two control dials are in exactly the right place.

Anyway, the question should be what it is that you want from another camera. Mainly controls are the big difference, and if you shoot wide open the shutter speed is great and the ibis is great when you shoot at slow shutter speeds. But only you know how you shoot, what you shoot, what you like and don't like.


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nixapatfan

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I had an EPM1 and moved to an EP5, but it took me a couple years of using it to really figure out why I needed to upgrade. The EP5 is great but it may be too much to jump into if you aren't familiar with all the functions as you can easily change something with the dials and not know what you changed and why you did it. Yes you can do the same thing with EPM2 but you have to knowingly go into the menu to change it so you'll remember why your pictures aren't coming out the way you intended. As for IBIS it's only useful shooting still subjects in low light so it might not be that useful if you are shooting moving kids at night. You could use a tripod to overcome that. High shutter speed is good but only useful if you have fast lenses and shooting in bright light. I'd keep the EPM2 for a couple years and learn it well then upgrade.
 

gengo

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Yes, I definitely realize that I am probably too new to this hobby (well, for me I hope it to become a hobby) to make informed decisions.

What I don't like about the PM2:

- Controlling the Aperture / Shutter Speed (sounds like I can improve this in the "B" menu)
- Lack of a VF
- Lack of a tilting screen

I think the first issue would be improved (if not fixed) with the addition of a dial or two. The M10 fixes the VF issue, and both the M10 and P5 have tilting screens.

In perfect conditions, I don't think it is an issue - but sometimes I might want to tilt the screen to get a different perspective.

Thank you all for the very helpful information!
 

MarkRyan

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- Controlling the Aperture / Shutter Speed (sounds like I can improve this in the "B" menu)
- Lack of a VF
- Lack of a tilting screen
For improved control of A- and S-modes...

Menu > Setup > Custom menu (Gears icon) > Button/dial > Dial function > A -> FNo.
Menu > Setup > Custom menu (Gears icon) > Button/dial > Lock -> Off

By default, the rear dial that surrounds the D-pad does nothing, but if you disable the "Lock" setting you can use it to control one setting. Very useful for controlling aperture in A-mode, or shutter speed in S-mode. (Exposure compensation is still an annoying click away.)

As for VF, you can use the same EVFs that work on the EP5 with the EPM2. Not much you can do about the non-tilting screen, though.
 

gengo

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The only thing you have to gain is more credit card debt. :laugh1:

You've only owned your pm2 for 6 weeks, not nearly long enough to master it. There's no rush in moving to a more advanced body. Rather, spend your energy towards understanding the relationships between aperture, shutter speed, and iso, and learning photo processing. And spend your money acquiring a good kit of lenses. Jmho.
Thank you.

With that in mind, here is what I currently have:

Panasonic 14mm f2.5
Olympus 14-42mm II R (kit lens)
Olympus 40-150mm (kit lens)

I mostly like to take pictures of landscapes / nature, but I also experiment with a little bit f everything.

What is the next lens I should add to cover something I don't have?

While in Japan, I plan on stopping by the Shinjuku area and look for either the 17 f1.8 or the 45 f1.8. However, I'm not sure if I should look at something different.

The 12mm f2 and the 12-40 f2.8 are our of my current price range (though I really, really want the latter - but how awkward would that look on a PM2 body?)


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MarkRyan

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What is the next lens I should add to cover something I don't have?
Focal length wise, you've got most everything covered. You could go even wider or even longer, but I don't know that's necessary.

What you could use is some fast glass -- something f/2.0 or faster.

If you're feeling adventurous (and frugal), I totally recommend the Fujian 35mm f/1.7. You can get it on Amazon, with a Micro 4/3 adapter, for around $30. It's manual-everything, but a lens I recommend to everyone getting into M43 cameras.

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The Olympus 45mm is another awesome choice, probably my most-used lens. If the 45mm was my only lens, I'd be satisfied.
 

drd1135

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My advice:
Novice or not just invest in good lenses. There is nothing you could not do with the E-PM2. I had that camera for a year and bought 5 lenses in that period. Couple of days ago ugraded to E-M5, but lenses are something that has to be a priority.

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This is an excellent point. What lenses do you have? Lots of well-priced fast primes for mu43.
 

Uncle Frank

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Thank you.

With that in mind, here is what I currently have:

Panasonic 14mm f2.5
Olympus 14-42mm II R (kit lens)
Olympus 40-150mm (kit lens)

I mostly like to take pictures of landscapes / nature, but I also experiment with a little bit f everything.

What is the next lens I should add to cover something I don't have?
Since you shoot outdoors, your first purchase should be a viewfinder. LCDs, even if they tilt, are lousy in sunlight. So the question is, do you buy an evf, or buy a new camera with an integrated evf.

I'll second Mark's nomination for the Olympus 45/1.8. It pairs nicely with your 14/2.5.

If you can sell the pm2 and have the extra coin, the em10 + 45/1.8 would resolve many of your issues.... tilty lcd, integrated evf, and fast glass. And if you buy them together, you will get a $100 discount on the lens.
 
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