Practicing continuous auto focus with E-M10

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by sfmurph, Nov 9, 2015.

  1. sfmurph

    sfmurph Mu-43 Regular

    Jul 4, 2013
    San Francisco
    I mostly use S-AF+MF on my E-M10, but want to try to use C-AF or C-AF+TR in some cases (soccer and other sports, mostly). I'm usually frustrated when I try C-AF or C-AF+TR and was hoping for some hints or direction for practice.

    With a telephoto lens, I'm often not holding the camera still, but am panning to follow the action. It seems that the green focus target jumps around differently than when I try to keep the camera and lens still, but then I end up with photos too loosely cropped. I know that aside from the E-M1, the C-AF isn't as good, but what do folks here do to have some success with C-AF? I've tried looking for examples or advice about how to have success with C-AF or C-AF+TR, but have come up empty-handed.

  2. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Real Name:
    Hi, have you tried practicing on vehicles? I would think bicycles would be good targets as they're not too big.

  3. Holoholo55

    Holoholo55 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 13, 2014
    Honolulu, HI
    Real Name:
    Phocal suggested that C-AF on the EM10 or EM5 II isn't much better than on the EM5 1st gen. Do you find that to be true? BTW, I never got C-AF+TR to work to my satisfaction on my EM5 or EM1. C-AF works fine on the EM1 though, even with an adapted 4/3rds lens like the 50-200 SWD. I'll try to post some photos later on of some soccer games.

    BTW, check out this posting for some tips for using C-AF. This is for an adapted lens, but something similar may help you with your EM10.
  4. sfmurph

    sfmurph Mu-43 Regular

    Jul 4, 2013
    San Francisco
    That post is with an E-M1, which has on-sensor PDAF, so it's a whole different ballgame. The poster does have some points about manual focusing in some circumstances, especially at f/8 or smaller.
  5. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    I think the first thing to do is to set a fixed focus square and practice to keep it on the target. BiF are probably the ultimate exercise for this.

    One thing to notice is that by default "Release Priority C" (C stands for C-AF) is set to on. This means that full pressing the shutter button is going to take a picture even if the AF system thinks that perfect focus is not acquired. To acquire the focus CDAF needs to focus/defocus continually so it make sense to leave it in this way. At the same time this means that you need to be aware of the focus situation, if it's still hunting of it's just oscillating around the focus point. Burst mode should help.

    See also this thread:

    Disabling face detection is a common thing to do in this case. Here are also a ton of hints:

    even if I do not know how many are just myths/hypothesis/up-to-date and how they have been properly tested and/or confirmed by Olympus.

    One more thing: by default the "[burst mode icon] + IS off" by default is On. This means that IS is disabled during bursts. IS should help AF, especially with long lenses. So this could be another thing to try with Low speed burst (it seems that IS work only up to 3.5 fps).
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