PM2 Shutter Shock

[hookgrip]

I read the shutter shock comparison test here, and it seems like it's a pretty significant problem with the E-PM2 when using shutter speeds in the 1/80 to 1/160s range.

https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=35882

I have a few questions about the issue:

1) Does shutter shock only affect certain lenses, or is it the same with all lenses?


2) Would disabling the IBIS eliminate the shutter shock issue?


3) If I use a lens with built-in IS (e.g. PM2 + Panasonic 12-32mm pancake), would that combination still be affected by shutter shock?

 

[dhazeghi]

I read the shutter shock comparison test here, and it seems like it's a pretty significant problem with the E-PM2 when using shutter speeds in the 1/80 to 1/160s range.

https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=35882

I have a few questions about the issue:

1) Does shutter shock only affect certain lenses, or is it the same with all lenses?

It's more obvious with some lenses. With others, it's basically invisible. Generally, smaller, lighter and longer focal length lenses have the most obvious signs of shutter shock.

2) Would disabling the IBIS eliminate the shutter shock issue?

Not really no. The IBIS isn't causing it - the shutter mechanism is. Bodies without IBIS, such as the Panasonic GX-1, also suffer from shutter shock.

3) If I use a lens with built-in IS (e.g. PM2 + Panasonic 12-32mm pancake), would that combination still be affected by shutter shock?

Doesn't make a difference. The one thing that does help somewhat is to enable Anti-Shock. Even 1/8 second can help substantially.

If you really care deeply about shutter shock, get a camera with an electronic shutter like the GM1. For most people with the E-PM2, it's at most a minor irritant. At worst, you find a combination that is particularly prone to exhibiting shutter shock, and you compensate accordingly with higher shutter speeds.

 

[hookgrip]

Thanks. So I guess there is no way to really avoid shutter shock? I tried setting the 1/8 sec anti-shock delay, but that made the shutter lag quite bad.

You mentioned higher shutter speeds to avoid shutter shock. How high are we talking here? 1/250? 1/500?

Also, is it recommended to leave IBIS off most of the time, and only turn it on when shooting in low light conditions? I ask because I saw in another thread that IBIS can make photos blurry (Post #2 here):

https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=61839

 

[dhazeghi]

Thanks. So I guess there is no way to really avoid shutter shock? I tried setting the 1/8 sec anti-shock delay, but that made the shutter lag quite bad.

You mentioned higher shutter speeds to avoid shutter shock. How high are we talking here? 1/250? 1/500?

Generally, higher is better. I've not seen any reports of SS at 1/500 or above. I've seen a few at 1/320, more at 1/250 and still more at 1/200 and 1/160.

If you're shooting from a tripod, you can also opt to use a much lower shutter speed.

Also, is it recommended to leave IBIS off most of the time, and only turn it on when shooting in low light conditions? I ask because I saw in another thread that IBIS can make photos blurry (Post #2 here):

https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=61839

That's what I do. It really depends how you hold the camera, how steady your hands are etc. To be fair, the loss due to shutter shock is usually less than the loss due to significant camera shake once the shutter speeds drop, but it really does depend.

 

[coffeecat]

I tried reproducing it with my brand new epm2 yesterday. All hand held, Olympus 45/1.8, shooting fine graph paper at a distance of about 3ft.

It was noticeable at 1/100 with ibis on 2/3 of shots, but not really noticeable at 1/60 or 1/160 (maybe one in ten shots). And even at 1/100 the 1/8 sec anti shock fixed it for me. So I don't see it causing me a big problem, compared to all the other stuff that can go wrong in a shot.

I suspect I wouldn't necessarily notice it if I wasn't shooting fine graph paper (where the vertical lines stay sharp but the horizontal ones show a characteristic double line). I realise some people are much more worried about such things than me.

Rob

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

 

[yokken]

I was totally oblivious to this issue until I read this thread. Thanks a lot, OP.

 

[hookgrip]

Shutter shock is very real on the E-PM2. Turning off IBIS seems to help a bit, but that takes away from one of the big selling points of this camera.

 

[kirschm]

Does the E-PM2 have the technical prerequisites to also get a 0-Anti-Shock (starting with electronic shutter) firmware update?

 

[Mark963]

I'm wondering the same thing. Would we need a campaign of some sort to get Olympus to do it?

 

[Ulfric M Douglas]

Shutter shock is very real on the E-PM2....

Although ... I use my e-pM2 a LOT, usually with the Lumix 20mm lens.
I have never suffered from shuttershock,
although I have never gone looking for it either.

 

[kirschm]

Although ... I use my e-pM2 a LOT, usually with the Lumix 20mm lens.
I have never suffered from shuttershock,
although I have never gone looking for it either.

My combination of PM2 and Panasonic 20mm/1.7 is suffering from shuttershock... mainly between 1/100 to 1/160 Sek.

 

[kirschm]

I just did an extreme testing: 2 seconds anti-shock, 1/15 sec, no IBIS, handheld... no blurrs at all...

 

[coffeecat]

That's not really an extreme test for shutter shock. It happens mostly in the range about 1/60 to 1/160 sec. It's caused by vibration *inside* the camera and its components, not by you moving. And it seems the IBIS logic may be fooled by this into producing more blur than if you turn it off.

 

[coffeecat]

My combination of PM2 and Panasonic 20mm/1.7 is suffering from shuttershock... mainly between 1/100 to 1/160 Sek.

That doesn't look like shutter shock to me. Shutter shock is caused by the first curtain of the shutter closing (vertically) prior to opening for the actual exposure. Consequently you get a characteristic blurring of horizontal features, but not really of vertical features. When I shot graph paper the horizontal lines showed a "double image" but the vertical ones were sharp.

Your attached photo looks more like good old camera shake, as the blurring seem to be almost diagonal (hard to tell admittedly).

Rob

 

[yakky]

Set minimum flash sync speed to 1/160, shoot more, worry less.

 

[hookgrip]

Set minimum flash sync speed to 1/160, shoot more, worry less.

What does that have to do with shutter shock?

 

[yakky]

What does that have to do with shutter shock?

Because it happens most frequently in the 1/60-1/160 range. If you sent flash sync to 1/160, regardless of flash attached or not, the camera will not drop shutter speed below that mark unless it hits Max ISO. Essentially it is a workaround to not having a real adjustable Auto-ISO like Nikon has.

 

[kirschm]

If you sent flash sync to 1/160, regardless of flash attached or not, the camera will not drop shutter speed below that mark unless it hits Max ISO.

Wow, I am really impressed... I was looking / searching for such a trick / workaround since I own Olys...

I just set the shortest sync speed at 1/250... and you're right... in Aperture Priority Mode it keeps at least 1/250 until you reach your individual upper Auto-ISO limit... 1000 thanks to you!!!

 

[coffeecat]

Because it happens most frequently in the 1/60-1/160 range. If you sent flash sync to 1/160, regardless of flash attached or not, the camera will not drop shutter speed below that mark unless it hits Max ISO. Essentially it is a workaround to not having a real adjustable Auto-ISO like Nikon has.

I wonder if this is a discovered "kludge" or if some Japanese software engineer actually intended this usage case!?

 

[yakky]

I wonder if this is a discovered "kludge" or if some Japanese software engineer actually intended this usage case!?

Who knows, but user selectable minimum shutter speed is essential for great indoor shots of kids. 1/250 is barely enough. I like that on my Nikon I can pick whatever speed I want, but 1/250 is better than nothing!