PL1 owners listen up!!!

dcisive

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I got off the phone after speaking to Olympus Technical Support for quite some time. Most of it was jawboning and good informational stuff. IF you own a PL1 you will NOT be able to do firmware updates on either the IB nor the Studio software link. It simply won't work. I found this out (apparently the first one out there). So here's the GOOD news. The following link provides you with a download which will allow any and ALL Olympus cameras to apply firmware updates (provided they are even available). It is a stand alone program provided by Olympus for this exact issue. So download and install this program from this link for the future.

http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/software/camera/cameraupdate.cfm

Also the following information was shared:

Use of a 3 stop neutral density filter should be able to overcome the shortcomings of having a 1/2000th top shutter speed for bright daylight shooting (also enable better waterfall shots by allowing proper slow shutter speeds in bright light). Use primarily when called for only.

The following link greatly explains the concept and use of the "Gradation" setting for the best results. I wondered about this setting so here is some great information directly from Olympus on the subject.

http://asia.olympus-global.com/imsg/webmanual/dslr_function/gradation/index.html

Last but not least that the provided program that comes with the camera "IB" basically sucks in that it is both a memory hog and of little use especially IF you have Olympus Studio to do your ORF conversions (much preferred), or wait for Adobe to update their RAW 8bf file for the PL1. Either way download the stand alone free firmware update program listed above in order to do it for the futures as NONE of their software will accomplish it otherwise.


I learned a lot tonight and thought I'd share for all the new E-PL1 owners out there. It's a great camera, especially when set up and used properly :biggrin:
 
M

mabelsound

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I just wish Oly would let you put firmware updates on the damn SD card like every other camera on earth.
 

OzRay

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That's excellent, saves having to go through the hopeless Olympus Master. On the issue of memory card updating, I prefer the internet method. From what I understand, you run less risk of bricking your camera, because there's one less step in the process of downloading the firmware and error checking occurs directly from the server (or some such). If you're already downloading the update, why not do it directly into the camera anyway?

Cheers

Ray
 

dcisive

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Well, it's a small price to pay for the ONLY camera company with the consideration and foresight to place "On Camera" utility for dead pixel mapping. NO other company has or is willing to do this, and it can be a HUGE pain not to have it. So kudo's to them. I can live with the rare online updates. It's a breeze frankly and a lot easier then a download onto a card.
 

OzRay

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I've been wondering what the dead pixel utility was all about. Can you explain it?

Thanks so much for this info - the gradation link is very interesting, too.

Really appreciate your sharing all this dcisive and so glad you bought the E-PL1, too.:wink:
With all sensors, much like LCD computer screens and TVs, you will from time to time encounter a pixel that gets locked into either an off or on situation. That means it's not doing what it's supposed to do and, if in the wrong place, can be quite annoying. The pixel mapping feature will search for bad pixels and map them out of the picture (so to speak).

Cheers

Ray
 

OzRay

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Ray, I don't know that I'd know a "bad pixel" if I met one.:confused:
In that case, you probably don't need to worry. :smile: But a bad pixel can be say a white dot always showing up in the same place, whether the area is white or black etc. Under the right (or wrong) conditions, you'll spot a bad pixel soon enough.

Cheers

Ray
 

hohoho

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Olympus (reportedly) said:
Use of a 3 stop neutral density filter should be able to overcome the shortcomings of having a 1/2000th top shutter speed for bright daylight shooting (also enable better waterfall shots by allowing proper slow shutter speeds in bright light). Use primarily when called for only.
Gods spare me from yet more photos of long-duration vaseliney waterfalls and streams. Them, and sunsets over the sea and puppies in baskets as well.
 

OzRay

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Gods spare me from yet more photos of long-duration vaseliney waterfalls and streams. Them, and sunsets over the sea and puppies in baskets as well.
Hey! I represent those statements. You shall not be spared::biggrin:

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Boyzo

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Beautiful effect on the flowing water ... what a great set of shots.

Did you use the Big Oly or the dinky E-P2 ???

Hey! I represent those statements. You shall not be spared::biggrin:

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dcisive

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You know OzRay, your pictures are worthless unless you reveal your post processing secrets and settngs. I want to know what the settings were on the waterfall shot (shutter speed, aperture) and what your in camera setup is as well as which camera was used. Are you using "Normal" gradation settings? Sharpness and Noise Reduction settings as well as what program used for the end processing. Thanks.
 

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