Pentax auto 110 lens thread

CD77

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I’ve just picked up a 24mm from eBay (for less than £10… bargain!) and was hoping to make a 110 to C mount adapter, does anyone have an details/dimensions/drawings for the 110 lens mount???
 

Ulfric M Douglas

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CD77 look for the adapted lens threads, some folk have illustrated their adaptations.

I just hammered my 110 lens into a 39mm-leica-threadmount extension tube with m4/3-to-m39 adapter.
(I didn;t use C-mount for this one)
 

CD77

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CD77 look for the adapted lens threads, some folk have illustrated their adaptations.

I just hammered my 110 lens into a 39mm-leica-threadmount extension tube with m4/3-to-m39 adapter.
(I didn;t use C-mount for this one)
I was thinking something along those lines, not the hammering bit but the extension tube... 16mm thread at one end with a 110 mount at the other. I use 3D CAD and a 3D printer every day at work so I can make something bespoke... I'm just missing the 110 mount detail.

Happy to share the design if successful!
 

Erich_H

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First pictures with PENTAX-110 f:2.8/24 mm & homebrew M4/3 adapter

The homebrew recipe:
  1. Take one M4/3 camera body of your choice.
  2. Take one Pentax auto 110 lens (In my case: f:2.8/24 mm).
  3. Take one C to M4/3 adapter.
  4. Take two C to CS adapters.
File down one C to CS adapter about 1-1.5 mm to achieve infinity focus. If you take off too much, it's easy to shim back up.

While testing for infinity focus, simply hold, or use a drop of melt glue, the lens to the filed down adapter. Melt glue is easy to remove, should you want, or need, to.

This adapter is less expensive than the cheap Chinese adapters from Pentax 110 to M4/3.
All in all, less than US$ 5:-!

Also, it's not leaking light, which can be a problem with these adapters.
  • Shot with Olympus E-PL1 through Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm wide open.
  • RAW development in camera.
  • Pictures of E-PL1/adapter/auto 110 lens shot with Samsung Note 10 plus.
  • Post processing of all pictures in Snapseed app on Samsung Note 10 plus.

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Thanks/Erik

[EDIT] I did file down enough (by mistake) to need a thin shim, made out of a postcard. So now the adapter looks like: C to M4/3 adapter - C to CS adapter - filed down C to CS adapter - thin shim - P110 f:2.8/24 mm. The shim is glued with office glue between the modified adapter and the lens.

What I have now is a C-mount Pentax-110 lens!

The C mount thread is close enough to the filter thread of this lens, so an extra C to CS adapter can be used as a non vignetting lens hood, or removed, as an extension tube for close up pics. When used as a lens hood, focusing is much easier, using the knurls of the C to CS adapter.

Also made an aperture disc out of a piece of cardboard (same as used for the shim), which I punched a hole in with (you guessed it) a hole puncher. This gives me an aperture that looks like f:4.5 to f:5.6.

Final thought: This recipe should also work nicely with the Pentax Q, NEX, and Samsung NX C mount adapters.

Closeup without homemade aperture disc and the hood as extension tube:

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Closeup with homemade aperture disc and the hood as extension tube:

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Erich_H

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Weather is really shitty, the storm Ciara is approaching, but I took a couple of test pictures from my balcony.

Pictures straight out of camera, no post processing. EV is -1/3 on both shots.

Olympus E-PL1 with Yashica ML f:2.8/28 mm
@ 1/100 f:5.6 ISO 400

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Olympus E-PL1 with Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm
with aperture disc @ 1/200 ~f:4.5 ISO 400

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Here's crops from lower left corner of both shots:

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When thinking about it, the aperture on the Pentax lens should be around f:4 according to the respective exposure times. Both pictures were taken within a minute.

My eye measurement/guesstimate says closer to f:5.6 on my disc, though.

Anyhow, there's no doubt. The Yashica ML glass is better. Also bigger. My thoughts are that the Pentax-110 lens is well worth the room in your pocket, as it don't take any.

Complete weight of the Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm including adapter, rear lens cap and an extra C to CS adapter as lens hood is only 45 grammes.

The Yashica ML f:2.8/28 mm weighs in at a comparatively hefty 345 grammes in similar configuration, with a UV filter added to it.

Better and bigger glass f:2.8/28 mm (with hood)

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Pocket friendly lens f:2.8/24 mm (with hood)

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Here's a view of the aperture disc in place

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Thanks/Erik
 
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Erik
Welcome to the forum!
I love these threads where people have used cheap lenses on early m43 cameras. Look forward to seeing more images from you.
 

Erich_H

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Erik
Welcome to the forum!
I love these threads where people have used cheap lenses on early m43 cameras. Look forward to seeing more images from you.

Thanks a lot!
And, be careful what you wish for, it might come true 😁
As it were, I ventured outside today, in the aftermath of Ciara.

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Using Olympus E-PL1 and Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm with my (maybe) f:5.6 aperture disc inserted.

It's still quite windy, coming in gusts, so much so, that the two last pictures, where I'm down to 1/3 and 1/4 of a second respectively, handheld, are rather decoratively blurred. ISO set at 400 for all the pictures. All pictures, except the one above, which is a center crop, shot with Yashica ML f:2.8/28, are uncropped.

As this lens is soft on the edges (more so to the right, might be off center aperture disc), I've preempted this by adding more vignetting in pp.

So, here goes nothing:

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Raw conversion in camera.
PP in Snapseed app on Samsung Note 10 plus: bw conversion/frames.

Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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Thought I'd try the Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm with another sensor, 20MP Sony IMX 269, that lives in my "Sensor-in-a-Box" YI M1 Black Friday purchase.

Almost handheld, 1/3 sec, with aperture disc, ISO 200.

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Straight out of camera, no pp. JPEG conversion in camera. I couldn't be bothered to take out the SD, so I used the app, which doesn't transfer RAW.

Firmware v. 3.20 international, which I believe is the latest.

I'm thinking this little urchin of a lens is still usable on a 20MP sensor.

Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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Some more Pentax 24 mm with my 20MP IMX269, XiaoYi YI M1 (Chinese M4/3 camera).

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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32815460937.html?

These b/w pics are shot with a 5 mm extension ring (the lens hood). Aperture disc inserted. Uncropped.

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This is shot without extension tube, lens hood back in place, wide open, and uncropped. The aperture disc fell out when I unmounted the extension tube. Have to find some black plastic.

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Lastly, a center crop of Lady Mismet de Tortoise, on guard duty. With aperture disc.

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JPEG conversion in camera.
I used the app to get the pictures on to the phone, and the app doesn't transfer RAW.

All things considered, not too shabby, IMHO.

Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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Made a new aperture disc out of plastic.

Disc a little bigger this time, to be placed between the C-CS adapters like this: C-M4/3 - C-CS - aperture disc - Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm C-mount.

Aperture still made by hole puncher, guesstimate: f:4.5. Also made a square add on aperture, for trying out tomorrow in daylight. Going to try triangular later.

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Some pictures, shot with Olympus E-PL1 and 2 x 5 mm extension rings. With two rings heavy vignetting. Invisible with dark background.
Aperture disc inserted. JPEGs developed in camera. Uncropped. Unedited. Just added frame.

Plastic 🐈 bokeh:
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Iris:
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Currency:
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Object X:
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Center crop, no extension tubes:
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Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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More experiments with the Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm:

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Cropped:
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Extremely cropped:
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After using this type adapter, I've cancelled my order for the two normal type, light leaking, US $15:- each, adapters PTX110 - M4/3.

Ordered 20 pieces C-CS adapters instead, for a lot less money.

Now I'm going to convert the 18 mm and the 50 mm to C-mount in the same way as I did the 24 mm.

Going to keep on using plastic for aperture discs.

I'm using a quarter dollar (US) as a template to cut the plastic.

After some sanding down they'll fit perfectly, and is easily removable by unmounting lens and C-CS adapter and just pushing the disc out.

And I'm getting some matte black spray paint too...

Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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E-PL1 w/Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm and 2 x 5 mm extension rings.

Going to keep on using plastic for aperture discs.

I'm using a quarter dollar (US) as a template to cut the plastic discs.

After some sanding down they fit perfectly, and is easily removable by unmounting lens and C-CS adapter and just pushing the disc out.

Thanks/Erik

Text reposted from last post edits.
 
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Erich_H

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Here's some more pictures from my Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm lens with homebrew adapter.

This set with triangular aperture disc inserted.

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📷 Shot with Olympus E-PL1 through Pentax-110 f:2.8/24 mm with triangular aperture disc. All pictures ISO400. Uncropped.

☣️ RAW development in camera.

☣️ Post processing in Snapseed app on Samsung Note 10 plus.

📸 Thanks/Erik
 

Erich_H

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So, I finally converted the f:2.8/18 mm and the f:2.8/50 mm Pentax-110 lenses, and took the 18 mm out for a spin last night.

As usual, E-PL1.

All pictures, but the last, uncropped. ISO 400, handheld, circular aperture disc inserted.

Warning: Graphic horse content below.
Viewer discretion recommended.

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Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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Another interesting twist:

As the Pentax-110 24 mm has a 25 mm filter thread that will accommodate the C-mount thread, I tried the Pentax-110 50 mm mounted on top of the 24 mm.

Vignetting, but not visible in 16:9 aspect ratio.

Some uncropped samples:

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Thanks/Erik
 
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Erich_H

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E-PL1 with Pentax-110 f:2.8/50 mm
Aperture disc / ISO400

Balcony view:
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Still life/death:
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His Imperial Majesty:
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Guard duty (crop):
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Isis de Tortoise:
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Halina 35X (crop):
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Thanks/Erik
 
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Fans of these lenses may be interested in the video recently posted by DPReview TV "Shoot Pentax 110 lenses on micro four thirds!" The video emphasises the fun aspect of the lenses but there is more technical stuff in some of the comments. I particularly liked the post from Jean Poitiers with the link to a thread he posted on the Pentax forum (even though he's using a Fuji camera not M4/3).
 
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