Pansonic G3 high iso usability.

colbycheese

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Way up there.
So what is the highest iso that can be used that will still produce good photos? Also, what is the best noise reduction setting for the camera? What is the best program you can use to help reduce noise in post process?
Thanks
 

broody

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So what is the highest iso that can be used that will still produce good photos? Also, what is the best noise reduction setting for the camera? What is the best program you can use to help reduce noise in post process?
Thanks
Pretty solid up to ISO1600 IMO, and usable at 3200.

In my experience the main concern is not underexposing. I always expose to the right (specially since the metering is too dark by default) 1/3 or 2/3 stops. If I'm able to raise the EV, I pretty much don't worry about ISO at all (pretty much true of any M43 body).

Don't bother with noise reduction in-camera. It's fairly straightforward to do in any decent editor. I simply use Photoshop and Adobe Camera Raw.
 

Replytoken

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Heavily depends on your standards and subject matter. For noise reduction, I use Lightroom, but there are other good alternatives as well.

--Ken
 

Steven

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With Gx1 which has pretty much the same sensor, I would agree with 1600 being good and 3200 OK of necessary. Its usually better to use Raw and use NR in program like Lightroom .
 

BlackOakMo

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I find my self having to push the ISO up on my G3, especially when indoors. Rarely am I happy with 6400. I use Lightroom for noise reduction because its all I have. LR does a good job on most pics at 3200 though a good example did not spring to mind. Below is a link to a pic at 1600 shot in raw with hardly anything done to it. I adjusted the WB, added some luminance noise reduction and a little clarity with the basic slider. Kinda surprised at how little was done to this picture now that i look back at it. I hope you can see that ISO 1600 is a non issue with a G3. This arena was actually rather dark but you'd hardly know it from this picture (hence the blown highlights in the window)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fg8y7rp9l4gyndl/Dalton-16.jpg

I guess i really need to get on flicker if i want to share pics on this site :)
 

BlackOakMo

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Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
https://db.tt/BpiPWfmt

trying to see how to post the image, sorry for any confusion.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Mu-43 mobile app
 

qppoiz

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Pretty solid up to ISO1600 IMO, and usable at 3200.

In my experience the main concern is not underexposing. I always expose to the right (specially since the metering is too dark by default) 1/3 or 2/3 stops. If I'm able to raise the EV, I pretty much don't worry about ISO at all (pretty much true of any M43 body).

Don't bother with noise reduction in-camera. It's fairly straightforward to do in any decent editor. I simply use Photoshop and Adobe Camera Raw.
I agree with broody. I prefer not to go over 1600 and 3200 when absolutely necessary (since I don't have the best light-gathering lenses), and I also find the need to expose by +1/3 or +2/3 stops on my G3.
 

jziegler

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+1 to what has been said here. 1600 RAW cleans up nicely in Lightroom. I have NIK dfine that would probably be better, but haven't even tried it since that's extra steps. My normal setting is auto ISO with 1600 max.
 

mike_a

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I never use JPEG OOC with the G3. Using RAW with post processing (I use Lightroom) gives results which are SO much better.
3200 is indeed usable, but with heavy noise reduction so that's somewhat of a last resort.

My experience is also that the G3 underexposes by around 2/3.
I usually compensate +1/3 in camera and the rest in Lightroom - when shooting RAW that gives very good results.
 

Ulfric M Douglas

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In a darkish room I find my G3 tries to underexpose ... certainly compared to this e-pM2 which overexposes in dim light, I have to treat the cameras differently in that regard.
PhotoNinja does a nice job with my G3 RAWs if I'm processing quickly, the presets seem to suit it.
 

Cruzan80

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What metering are you guys using when saying it underexposes? Maybe it is just me, but the spot metering seems to be just fine for me.
 

qppoiz

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I keep my meter at center weighted the majority of the time. Adjusting by 1/3 or 2/3 is practically second nature now.
 

Wasabi Bob

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DxO

You guys have to try DxO's raw processing software.
http://www.dxo.com/intl/photography/dxo-optics-pro/photo-software

They offer a free trial and their web site has some very good videos of how it works. It differs from CS and LR in that it's not a plugin and runs independent of any other program. DxO evaluates every camera body and lens and builds custom profiles, so what is applied is specifically targeted for the equipment you use. I've taken ISO 6400 RAW files from older cameras and could not believe what it was able to do. It will work with JPG, but not nearly as effective.

Like most of you I used LR and Dfine and still have a very high opinion of both. DxO, at $99 was probably the best piece of software I have.
 

Ulfric M Douglas

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I use centre-weighted metering all the time, every time.
With spot metering I cannot hand the camera to someone and expect a reliable exposure, spot-metering is for folk who know they've got spot-metering set.
My cameras have to be able to give decent results even when handled by a five-year-old ... that's just the way it is.
(His favourite is the old E-1)
 

yehuda

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I get very good ISO 1600 with my GX1 and G5 (same sensor as the G3) shooting RAW. Read my previous posts for my workflow.

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Jason C

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I never use JPEG OOC with the G3. Using RAW with post processing (I use Lightroom) gives results which are SO much better.
3200 is indeed usable, but with heavy noise reduction so that's somewhat of a last resort.

.
I too shoot RAW only, and depending on the high iso composition I'll either use LR's NR, or Neat Image Pro or NIK's Define2. I've been able to pull out some amazing iso 6400 from G3 raw. However, I tried to keep the G3 iso limit to 3200.

Once again, it all depends on both how you meter the composition and the content of your frame (lights, darks).

Jason
 

RRRoger

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You have to be pretty carefull at ISO 3200, but good images are obtainable.
Often it is better to use faster glass or a SpeedBooster.
 
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