Panoramic & Long Exposure with Marc Koegel and a Panny G1

oris642

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Feb 12, 2010
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142
Location
Vancouver, B.C. Canada
I had a private all-day lesson with Marc Koegel on Sunday. Marc is the owner of VPW (Vancouver Photo Workshop) http://www.vancouverphotoworkshops.com/Instructors/marckoegel.php

and I was the only one that signed up for the panoramic photography course - hence the private lesson! It was a great day and Marc was an awesome instructor!

We tried the Panny G1 a few different ways:

1) mounted vertically and panning sideways
2) mounted vertically and panning sideways with long exposure (using a 10-stop + a 6-stop B&W #110 filters for 16 stops for 1 minute exposures)
3) mounted horizontally and panning up/down (2 rows) and sideways (for the two "Burdeny Look" pictures!)
4) Panning vertically AND sideways AND with bracketing.

Marc was really impressed that the little G1 was able to meter through 16 stops of ND filters!

All made possible by the mounting bracket and Arca-Swiss P0 head I reviewed previously: https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=2037&highlight=arca . Lens was set at 14mm - the low end of the factory zoom. Stitching was with CS4 or some other program. Blending was with CS4 or Photomatix Pro. One picture took 36 shots, between 3 shots per position (0, +2 EV, -2 EV), panned 6 across, 2 rows.

File Sizes: Stanley Park 2 is 7630 x 3815, Stanley_Park_4_v2 is 7279 x 2065.

I liked the 4x5 format when I shot Large Format last year; 16" x 20" is a nice size on the wall. Since the 43rds format is 4000 x 3000, if I shoot vertically and overlap two shots by one-third I get exactly 4000 high x 5000 wide. That would make the little G1 equivalent to a 20 megapixel camera.

The shot of the G1 shows it set up to pan vertically and sideways.

Here is the link to the gallery with more pictures: http://gallery.me.com/knosin#100149

Summary: the G1 and other micro four-thirds cameras can be "pushed" with a little bit of light, small hardware to make decent-size panoramas or simply bigger pictures.
 

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DavidB

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Apr 7, 2010
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Location
Melbourne, Australia
Nice work!

The biggest problem I've had with long-exposure composites is the fundamental problem with objects moving. I guess with really long exposures the blurred clouds aren't too hard to merge, but it depends on the direction of movement.

My own pano kit (using the G1 or EOS bodies) is fundamentally similar, but with the addition of an RRS MPR-CL to avoid any parallax on single-row panos.
 

Herman

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Feb 7, 2010
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1,875
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The Netherlands
Thanks Eric, great series. I especially like shot number two.
Is (auto) stitching software autopano from Kolor best ?
 

GaryCh

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Apr 14, 2010
Messages
89
First I'd like to show my ignorance with a quick question...

What on earth is that green ice-cube in the hotshoe ???


I guess with really long exposures the blurred clouds aren't too hard to merge, but it depends on the direction of movement.
Using a layer mask in photoshop and sufficient overlap clouds shouldn't be a problem. Even with 90% blue sky in the left image and 90% clouds in the right... with enough overlap you can paint between them using a mask and a very blurry brush to 'pad' between images with. You can also slide in 'bridging' cloud from another exposure.

Other moving objects you can usually soft-clone out... or, if you prefer, clone out and then replace (take some regular normal exposures between each long exposure in case you wish to place boats back on water or birds in the air, stop that blurry dockside crane, etc...)


-Gary
 

GaryCh

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Apr 14, 2010
Messages
89
I think it might be a small spirit bubble level Gary. Certainly has a strange fluorescent colour.
Doh! Yeah, that would make a lot of sense.

I want more pictures of the spirit level! I'm fascinated now. Can we light it with a green laser pointer or a UV lamp ..... can we? .... please ? ... :2thumbs:
 

oris642

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
142
Location
Vancouver, B.C. Canada
First I'd like to show my ignorance with a quick question...

What on earth is that green ice-cube in the hotshoe ???


Other moving objects you can usually soft-clone out... or, if you prefer, clone out and then replace (take some regular normal exposures between each long exposure in case you wish to place boats back on water or birds in the air, stop that blurry dockside crane, etc...)


-Gary
Hi Gary,

Yes, it's a bubble level. Got it on Ebay for something like $5. The Oly has a built-in level but you also need to keep the back vertical. I didn't quite do that so if you look carefully at picture #3 the buildings are leaning slightly. That pic of the G1 was taken with my iPhone.

As for moving objects one stitching software (the one I can't remember) was definitely superior to the stitching in CS4. It handled moving people quite well.
 

BartonFlyer

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Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
105
Location
Bolton, UK
.....
As for moving objects one stitching software (the one I can't remember) was definitely superior to the stitching in CS4. It handled moving people quite well.
And there was me thinking the runner in picture 2 had his foot nailed to the plinth :wink:

Seriously though - terrific series you must be really chuffed!, a beautiful part of the world which brings back memories of a couple of fantastic holidays in and around Vancouver.
 

GaryCh

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Messages
89
As for moving objects one stitching software (the one I can't remember) was definitely superior to the stitching in CS4. It handled moving people quite well.
Yeah, I've never used CS4 for stitching either... well, other than preparing skyboxes for games software.

I was referring to those times when things just won't stitch pleasingly due to movement, or in long exposure panoramas when there is something you just wish was still (ducks, birds, a large dockside crane, people, etc...)

I think it was in response to DavidB and his moving objects : )


-Gary
 
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