Panasonic G-9 shooting in "P" mode

Brownie

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If you don't limit the auto ISO the camera is going to boost it when needed. When I shoot in P, it's via one of the custom setups. I started using auto ISO unrestricted, then limited it to 800, and then went back to setting it myself. In the custom setup the rear dial chooses S/A and the front dial is assigned to exposure compensation. When it was in auto ISO I could never figure out how the camera chose what to change when I spun the dials. Seems like sometimes it was S/A, sometimes ISO, but more often than not everything.

As far as I'm concerned P mode should never choose ISO. For that matter I don't want my camera to choose ISO, at least not randomly. It wasn't that way on film cameras, and so far I can't see the beauty in allowing it with digital.
 

Stanga

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When shooting in P mode it is best to select iISO instead of Auto ISO. The former chooses the lowest possible speed that is likely to freeze any motion that the camera detects in the image on the sensor. I tend to use burst mode to get three or more consecutive shots. Sometimes the first shot ends up blurred as a result of the vibration from me pressing the shutter if the IBIS system thinks that I can get away with a slow shutter speed. The 2nd or 3rd shot tends to be the keeper.
 

retiredfromlife

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While I don't have the G9 I use the "P" mode on my G85 for general walking around shots when I don't want to have to check all the settings every time. I set the ISO manually, normally 400 for general use to keep the shutter speed up.

I find this works fine for me, just about all outdoor shots I post here are using "P" mode except for birds where I switch to "S" or spiders where I am in "M".
 

agentlossing

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iISO attempts to analyze the type of scene to keep the ISO lower by optimizing aperture and shutter speed for the amount of movement, etc. I've never found it to blow me away, though.
 

ooheadsoo

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iISO routinely chooses too slow of a shutter speed for these shaky hands and twitchy subjects, so I gave up on it for either manual or auto iso.
 

Stanga

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iISO routinely chooses too slow of a shutter speed for these shaky hands and twitchy subjects, so I gave up on it for either manual or auto iso.
That's why I recommend shooting in burst mode. The first image might be a miss, but the subsequent images tend to be a hit.
 

ooheadsoo

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That's why I recommend shooting in burst mode. The first image might be a miss, but the subsequent images tend to be a hit.
It depends on your subject. It doesn't work for me b cause the shutter speeds are too slow for a baby/toddler in close quarters. I need to move suddenly and quickly to recompose, and the growing baby is also thrashing and twitching, but iISO will choose 1/80, which will not deliver sharp results under my usual scenarios. I'm sure it would be ok under different circumstances where when the camera believes the scene is static, it's actually static.
 
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newmikeman

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I did have some success on a trip where I set the camera to M with f8 and 1/125 with AutoISO. I limited the AutoISO to 1600 I think. In ordinary random use this worked out fine and obviously I did vary the aperture and/or shutter speed for some of the more unusual scenes. My old G80 and GX80 didn't let me do this. I can't remember why I didn't just use P !
 

User ID

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Is anyone doing this or have you tried? I tried it a few
days ago with Auto ISO and wasn't happy with the results
and wonder what your experience has been?
I frequently use "instant P-mode". Official jargon calls
it "One Touch AE". OTAE launches P-mode at the touch
of a button and then leaves the settings locked rather
than continuously updating them. Check it out. Might
become your fave exposure control :)

FWIW TWIMC I never use auto ISO. NEVVVUH ! Really
amazes me what features users combine with auto ISO.
Don't know why you added it to P-mode, but I am not
at all surprised you were not happy with it.
 
Last edited:

newmikeman

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I frequently use "instant P-mode". Official jargon calls
it "One Touch AE". OTAE launches P-mode at the touch
of a button and then leaves the settings locked rather
than continuously updating them. Check it out. Might
become your fave exposure control :)
Thanks User ID and I've found the item in the manual as "One Push AE". I'll give it a go.
 

User ID

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Sorry I named it incorrectly but good that
you found it. As long as you're not running
short of assignable buttons, you just set it
up and use it "as-needed" or ignore it when
no need. It's kinda like it's the BBAF of AE ...
<push button/get result/no further changes>
....... unless you push he button again.

BTW, not sure if it's clear in the manual but
One Push AE ignores any +/- AE biasing so
no point in setting any +/-.
 
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