Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 Four Thirds Lens on GF1 ?

Speederlander

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Anyone tried the Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 Four Thirds Lens on the GF1? It's a well rated lens to be sure, and hard to come by. How vast would the difference be between what is possible with the pancake 20mm f/1.7 and the 25mm f/1.4?

What would be the downsides on a non-:43: lens like this other than having to use an adapter and that it's bigger and heavier than the much more compact 20mm?

What would be a top-notch adapter for 4/3 to :43: ?

Thanks.
 

Bokeh Diem

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Every time I conjure up images of acquiring this lens some frugal part of me always shuts the internal conversation down. That, and I would dearly love to have it.

I make do with the Pany AF20 1.8 and older manual focus 24's and 28's. In the end, I only miss it when someone brings it up.

Bokeh D
 

Speederlander

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Every time I conjure up images of acquiring this lens some frugal part of me always shuts the internal conversation down. That, and I would dearly love to have it.

I make do with the Pany AF20 1.8 and older manual focus 24's and 28's. In the end, I only miss it when someone brings it up.

Bokeh D
Assume for a second in a moment of insanity you hit the buy-it-now button. What is the current most recommended adapter for 4/3 to :43: lenses?
 

Speederlander

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Bokeh Diem

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Beomagi

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The lens IS nice - it gives beautiful images, and is sharp wide open.

That said, I sold mine to finance the purchase of the E-PL1 and 20mm f1.7.

The problem with the lens is that on SLR systems, it really doesn't focus well in low light using phase detect.

It is extremely accurate to focus in CDAF mode - which bodes well for micro four thirds bodies (af does work - Compatibilities of DMC-GF1, DMC-GH1 and DMC-G1 | Compatibility | Digital Camera | Product Support | Support | Panasonic Global) - and in low light, sometimes cdaf was the only way to focus.

It's not a fast focus when using cdaf in low light - so while it CAN take a great picture in low light due to the sharp f1.4, but would be slower than you'd like - or require manual focus.

e.g. 25mm f1.4
http://beomagi.ath.cx/gallery/2010 February/P2208802.JPG

All in all, I do prefer the 20mm pancake. I think it is sharper than the 25mm paleica in the center, and can live with 33% less speed. AF is far faster, and of course, there's the size...

e.g. 20mm f1.7
http://beomagi.ath.cx/pics/2010 05/15/P5150303.JPG

For the price and size, i'm really thinking I could have a VC Nokton 50mm f1.1 and be happier.
 

Bokeh Diem

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"The lens generally has speed issues or the lens attached with an adapter has issues? I'm looking now for reviews..."


Latest firmware from May 10 upgrades/solves the contrast AF issues. It won't support AF continuous though, just AF single.

Should be smooth sailing from here on.

I've got my eye on a used one for $450 and just ordered a DMW-MA1 from B&H for $114.00

Bokeh D
 

Jonas B

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I just want to confirm that the PL25 autofocuses fine on a G1 (and of course any other µ4/3 camera but a G1 is what I have here). The AF motor is not humming as the G20/1.7 does but works with a higher pitch and is more audible, or even a bit noisy. AF speed is fine in my opinion. It is a little slower than the G20 but not by much. It focuses a tad better, as in reliable, in low light (tried with medium contrasty stuff in light at EV2).

Manual focusing feels better with the PL25 thanks to the bigger focusing ring.

"Sharpness"... in the center it is pretty much the same as a good copy of the G20 lens. Borders shows more of lateral CA (raw, ACR) than the G20.

The PL25 offers less flare and less of the halos around highlights compared to the G20. (But the PL 25 is still not stellar, when it comes to flare resistance).

Somewhat warmer colors than the G20 (doesn't matter of course).

Better bokeh (personal opinion) and better, more pleasing overall rendering and transitions.

When used with a Panasonic camera the PL25 offers far better ergonomics than the G20. It's a relief being able to use A mode, set the aperture using the aperture ring and the wheel on the camera for exposure compensation only.

Size, weight and price... for me the ergonomics and bokeh is enough to justify the price difference. YMMV. When traveling I use the G20 and the G1 plus G20 combo ergonomics is a pain for me.

@Bokeh D; that's a great price for a great lens!

my cents,

Jonas
 

pete_t

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I've been trying to find one in stock in the UK for several weeks - anyone got any ideas?
 

Jonas B

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Pete,

I usually check the German prices when wanting to buy a lens, new, from a dealer. Panasonic Sweden wants about 50% more for the PL25 than the German dealers and they refuse to even discuss the price ("It's a Leica lens, what do you expect?" "Yeah, sure, since when does Leica mark their lenses Panasonic and make them in Japan?" "---")

You can try Foto Mundus in Meppen for example, their service is good also if they aren't the bottom cheapest one (German price hunter).

Are you sure? The lens isn't exactly small on a µ4/3 camera.

kind regards,

/Jonas

G20/1.7 at f/2, PL25/1.4 at f/2 (both images taken at the equivalent distance from the subject)
and the lens on a G1 with the original hood overlayed onto a better solution
 

hmpws

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Jonas: How come the background of the images looks different? Is that to do with characteristic of the lens? (I was under the impression that they should capture the same background)
 

Jonas B

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Jonas: How come the background of the images looks different? Is that to do with characteristic of the lens? (I was under the impression that they should capture the same background)
Hi,

But why are you under that impression?

You can think about it in different ways: The two images are taken at different distances from the focal plane. The focal plane is at the metal ruler going across the image. The shooting distance(s) are adjusted so the image barely covers the Christmas tree decorations at the ends. The 20mm is wider than the 25 and so I had to be a bit closer when using the 20.

As the 20 is wider it has to see more, a wider field of view, than the 25. That is like sitting in a theatre close to the stage and look a little behind the curtains at the sides. You see more behind the curtains the closer to the stage you are.

You can also take a sheet of paper and make a simple drawing. Make a lens symbol to the left and something indicating my ruler with stuff on it in the center. Now draw two lines from the lens touching the ends of the symbol for the ruler and extend these lines to the right edge of the paper. At the right you see the are covered by the 25mm lens.
Now make another lens symbol a bit closer to the ruler symbol and again draw the two lines. At the right you see what area is covered by the 20mm lens.

The ruler is always depicted the same size as the shooting distance is adjusted for the lens' enlarging capabilities. That's the same as we are moving a bit to cover... let's say two friends standing in front of us and we want to take a head and shoulder image of them. With the 20 we are a bit closer to cover the scene, with the 25 we step back (increasing the distance with 25% in this case) and get the same shot. The backgrounds will differ in the same was as in the images above.

I hope this makes some sense and explain what you see in the images,

regards,

/Jonas
 

pete_t

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But, I wonder what happened to the thread starter and pete t.
I've been out taking pictures :smile:

It is exactly those characteristics that make me want that lens - largely for portrait work. I realise its not a tiny lens (I use the Pana 20 when I want tiny) but the effect is what I'm after. I got very used to the 50mm f1.4 on my Canon and have used a 50mm f1.4 Leica Summilux and just loved the shallow depth of field and unique draw of the lens. Yes I know this one is different but the images I've seen in this forum and elsewhere mark that as a lens I would love to add to my inventory.

Maybe, just maybe Panasonic/Leica have decided to make a m4/3 25mm f1.4 Summilux making this one discontinued and hard to find. Probably too much to hope for.

Pete
 

Jonas B

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I've been out taking pictures...
I wish I had been out doing the same.

I have attached two more images, following the same idea as in my previous example, taken and posted here only because of the whirry background making any photographer concerned (and looking for another background of course).

In many situations there is a real difference between the PL25/1.4 and the G20/1.7, while in other situations the PL25 represents extra weight only.

During the winter and spring I have noticed that I nearly always reach for the 25/1.4 when loading my bag, leaving the 20/1.7 at home despite being at least as sharp and smaller and easier to carry. I started to wonder why, thinking in a more active way about it, noticing those saying they sold the Panasonic 25/1.4 as the 20mm pancake is so good.

I found it is about handling (easy to describe) and the feeling of using the bigger and more sturdy lens (easy to understand). Then I, inevitable, also noticed the small differences in drawing style and the differences following by the longer focal length.

That was bad luck. I would have liked to sell the 25/1.4 and use just the 20mm.

Well, that's it.

kind regards,

Jonas
 
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