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Panasonic 20mm E-M5, E-P5, and E-M1 differences

Discussion in 'This or That? (MFT only)' started by stripedrex, Jan 31, 2014.

  1. stripedrex

    stripedrex Do or do not. There is no try.

    373
    Jun 8, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Alex
    So I currently have the o17, p20, and p25 and got myself just about convinced with my shooting style the p20 is the one I should be keeping from a fov, character and sharpness perspective. It blows the other 2 out of the water shot wide open and has something about the character of the photos I really like. HOWEVER with my e-m5 in combination with the 1/8th delay I need to avoid shutter shock and the autofocus speeds I'm missing shots. I'm a candid "capture the moment" type shooter and I need to capture that natural smile, laughter or activity my son, family and friends are doing. I've read that the E-P5's autofocus is 45% faster than the E-M5. I'm curious for anyone that has had the E-M5 and p20 that may have switched to the E-P5 or E-M1 if you notice an improvement in autofocus. I'm aware the Panasonic bodies focus the p20 faster (I come from a GH2 and GX1) but auto-iso in manual mode and 5-axis ibis has become a bit too much of a staple for me to let it go. Also the 1/8th delay needed for the E-M5 and E-P5, is that still needed on the E-M1 to avoid shutter shock or are folks with the E-M1 using the 5-axis without any shutter delays with high success of sharpenss in that shutter speed zone? My ideal situation is the p20 focuses like the Panasonics and it would be awesome not to have the 1/8th delay. I wish Oly even had a 1/16 or 1/32 delay if it takes the same effect.
     
  2. oly18

    oly18 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Oct 21, 2011
    I had a P20 before and tried it on the EP5 and EM1. I found it still slow to autofocus. I eventually sold it for that reason. I think it is the motor that holds it back, not the body.

    I also have the 17 and P25. My copy of the P25 was sharper than the P20, though the P20 was no slouch. My 17 was just slightly less sharp. Both autofocus much faster than the P20, with the 17 being the fastest.
     
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  3. dougjgreen

    dougjgreen Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 5, 2013
    San Diego
    Doug Green
    As of now, you simply can't have the combination of good AF performance with the 20mm lens, on any body that offers 5 axis IBIS. You either have to take lesser IBIS with the GX7, no IBIS with other Panasonic bodies, or lousy AF performance with any of the Olympus bodies. It sucks, but that's reality. I finally gave up, and settled for using the Panaleica 25mm f1.4 instead of the Panasonic 20mm lens, even though I prefer the pancake footprint and the field of view of the 20mm lens.
     
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  4. D MATIC

    D MATIC Mu-43 Regular

    144
    Jul 18, 2012
    Not to steer you off topic. But I find for candid shots especially of your son, the O45mm 1.8 to be a better choice. It would let you be farther away and you can capture moments more freely and they would be more candid. Plus you can take portraits with it too without the facial distortion the P20mm 1.7 could bring if you shoot too close to your subject.

    I don't know too much about shuttershock issues with the Oly bodies. But the GX7 has an electronic shutter silent mode which would virtually eliminate shuttershock.

    The question is tho: Is the GX7 electronic shutter + lesser IBIS better than an EM1/EM5 regular shutter + 5 Axis.
     
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  5. stripedrex

    stripedrex Do or do not. There is no try.

    373
    Jun 8, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Alex
    Man I went as far as to see if I can hack and change the motors inside lol. Check out this link: http://www.imaging-resource.com/new...panasonics-lumix-g-14mm-and-20mm-prime-lenses

    Interestingly enough the motor is accessible but based on how it moves it's like there's gears inside that may have a ratio favoring torque rather than speed. It seems to me when I use Panasonic and Olympus bodies that ALL Panasonic lenses seem to pulse deeper on the Olympus. And oddly the Olympus lenses don't pulse as deep which makes them focus faster. On the Panasonic bodies the Olympus lenses behave the same.

    Anyhow thanks guys for the responses. Sad to know even the E-M1 is slow with the 20. Perhaps there's hope with the E-M10? Can you guys or anyone confirm the 1/8 shutter delay is still needed for the E-M1 to avoid shutter shock?
     
  6. stripedrex

    stripedrex Do or do not. There is no try.

    373
    Jun 8, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Alex
    I agree! I have the o45 and use for just that. I do find when I try to fit more in the frame I hit walls to often when I zoom with my feet but I am trying to use my o45 more. My favorite shots seem to come from the o45. The fov of the p20 has been the safest fov for me. I do get a little tight for how I like to frame the shots but do find myself pretty close when I'm shooting (dinner table, playing with toys, and just interacting as a family).
     
  7. oly18

    oly18 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Oct 21, 2011
    Fortunately, I never had a problem with shutter shock with any of my lenses or bodies, including my PZ 14-42 pancake lens... personally, I think part of it the problem may be attributed or at least compounded by user technique... I also find changing the IBIS to only turn on once the shutter is fully pressed works better than IBIS on when shutter is half pressed.

    Another option for you might be the upcoming Olympus 25mm f/1.8 lens that was just announced. Cheaper and smaller than the P25 and should autofocus very quickly.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. stripedrex

    stripedrex Do or do not. There is no try.

    373
    Jun 8, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Alex
    I think it depends partly on sample variation too. I also did not have shutter shock on 2 copies of the PZ 14-42 with a GH2 and a GF2. However on a GX1 it was very noticable no matter what technique I used and even on a very light tripod. As for saying you don't have shutter shock do you have a body with 5-axis? Are you saying you don't have shutter shock issues with ibis and have 1/8th or so delay turned off? I will try the option of making ibis work ONLY when shutter pressed and try it with delay on / off, that's an interesting idea. I know there's some 'wiggle' room with the 5-axis perhaps starting it when pressing gives it the most flexibility of movement. I'm also curious how the o25 will perform thanks for the suggestion.
     
  9. stripedrex

    stripedrex Do or do not. There is no try.

    373
    Jun 8, 2012
    Long Island, NY
    Alex
    Wow I have to tell you, your suggestion to have ibis off during focus seems to make a substantial difference. I've turned off the 1/8 delay and just brief testing showing very sharp and faster shooting (by 1/8th of a second =) snaps. Much thanks again going to play with this, where were you last year when I got the E-M5 and turned on 1/8th of a delay?! =p Threw on the 17mm and it feels faster than me pressing the shutter to focus now and the 20mm is that little bit faster to take a shot. Still pulsing sometimes but better.
     
  10. oly18

    oly18 Mu-43 Regular

    47
    Oct 21, 2011

    You are very welcome. Glad to have been of assistance... I actually originally turned it off because I didn't like the whirring noise of the ibis, but then also found it seemed to work better as well for sharpness...
     
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